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  • #16
    Originally posted by ThePowells View Post
    Keith, with the other work you are doing IMHO you are way past being qualified to do this. I grew up in a Ford dealership and private garage and was doing this before I was a teenager.
    Or better yet I'll trade you some work... You install my solar and I'll repack your bearings.
    Jerry - Thanks for making me laugh. My wrenching ability's are a bit lacking. If tight is good another turn should be better - right? I have gotten pretty good at using easy outs or reverse drill bits and a tap. I did the wheel bearings on my dads boat trailer and other stuff. I can never get the preload right and always end up over tightened, or not tight enough. I have learned to let the experts do it now. That's why I asked about the certifications.

    As for helping I will be in your neck of the woods come fall. Need to use the trailer to haul all my daughters stuff to her. She is in Statesboro Georgia. I would just need to swing north a bit. I am starting on my solar project this week as weather is supposed to warm up.
    Thanks
    Keith
    2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th whee, Star White 2022 F350 King Ranch CC Long bed (HAL) (CCC 4062lbs), B&W 25K OEM Companion,. SteadyFast system, Trailer reverse lights, rear receiver spare tire holder, storage tube, sumo springs, Victron MultiPlus 12/120/3000, Solar, Custom 6K axles upgrade, and other modifications.

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    • #17
      If you are careful in removing the pins, they may be reusable 1x. More than that and they may break. Take the spare pin you have to the parts or hardware store and pick up a few.

      Do you have grease through hubs? If so pull the rubber plug and look inside for the pin. You may even pull the cap just to look around. 5 minutes of puling the cap or plug may save you a mid job trip to the parts house.
      Joseph
      Tow
      Vehicle: 2024 GMC K3500 Denali Ultimate Diesel
      Coach: 303RLS Delivered March 5, 2021
      South of Houston Texas

      Comment


      • #18
        Originally posted by Jlawles2 View Post
        If you are careful in removing the pins, they may be reusable 1x. More than that and they may break. Take the spare pin you have to the parts or hardware store and pick up a few.

        Do you have grease through hubs? If so pull the rubber plug and look inside for the pin. You may even pull the cap just to look around. 5 minutes of puling the cap or plug may save you a mid job trip to the parts house.
        I'll pull the cap and see. I'm just an advanced planner. Irritates the wife but I like to be prepared for everything.
        Terry and Patty (Dogs-Sophie and Tessa)
        2020 Reflection 297RSTS - bought Oct 2019
        2021 F350 crew cab, SRW, 6.7L diesel, 14K equal-i-zer hitch

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        • #19
          trkester

          Reusing a cotter pin should be an absolute last resort . . . don’t make that part of your plan .

          Rob
          Cate & Rob
          (with Border Collies Molly & Angel + Kitties Hazel & Elsie)
          2015 Reflection 303RLS
          2022 F350 Diesel CC SB SRW Lariat
          Bayham, Ontario, Canada

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          • #20
            After our first trip with our new 337RLS I was disappointed with the brake performance. I just now got around to doing my inspect/repack on the bearings and found the reason why. Someone had used the EZ lube fitting and blown out the seals on all 4 wheels. The hub was packed full on all 4 and had likely been filled with a power grease gun, the grease was the same throughout which would indicate it was all done at the same time. This is the 2nd new trailer that we have bought that was damaged with the EZ lube. So our new trailer is getting a complete set of new brakes on Dexters dime. I commented to their warranty representative that they could save a lot of money by eliminating the EZ lube. If bearings are packed properly and the bearing preload is set correctly there would be no need to add grease in between maintenance cycles.
            2021 Reflection 337RLS, 2021 Silverado 3500HD 6.6 gas. Nellie the wonder boxer

            Comment


            • #21
              familytruckster4 I agree that the EZ-Lube system needs attention or at least lots of documentation. I had to read through the manual many times to find it, but in order to properly use the system one is supposed to jack up the axle, spin the tire, and hand pump slowly grease through the fitting.

              https://www.dexteraxle.com/user_area...ice_manual.pdf

              Note page 57 of the manual. Not many people will read the manual to find this section.

              trkester also note on page 57 they show that funny non cotter pin retainer.
              Joseph
              Tow
              Vehicle: 2024 GMC K3500 Denali Ultimate Diesel
              Coach: 303RLS Delivered March 5, 2021
              South of Houston Texas

              Comment


              • #22
                familytruckster4

                I am not defending Dexter or would I throw them under the bus. Our RV has Dexter axels and after the first year of ownership I removed all the hubs for bearing inspection and repack with new seals. I found no excessive grease inside the hub , the bearings were well packed and in good shape. It is possible that the delivery driver or even your dealer may have packed the bearings full of grease , I am guessing the dealer on this. I am not sure why they would do this but maybe for preventative maintenance or future work load. From what I have seen on our unit and what I have read over the years is that GD would not even do this as there have been some hanger bolts and such that have been found dry and void of any grease so I would guess that they would not waste a bunch of grease on hubs if they are not willing to grease the hanger bolts and such.

                It is great that Dexter is stepping up and taking care of this issue for you , they are a good company to work with.

                Enjoy the new rig and new brakes , do not forget to set the brakes proper and burn them in with proper sequences.

                Brian
                Brian & Michelle
                2018 Reflection 29RS
                2022 Chevy 3500HD

                Comment


                • #23
                  Originally posted by familytruckster4 View Post
                  If bearings are packed properly and the bearing preload is set correctly there would be no need to add grease in between maintenance cycles.
                  This is absolutely true! If you need to add grease between annual inspect/clean/handpack maintenance intervals as prescribed in your owners manual . . . there is a bearing problem that adding more grease won't fix. There is absolutely no reason to have zerk fittings on RV spindles. I have had this discussion with LCI reps and they agree, but claim that the spindles are common with boat trailer axles where they do have a purpose. A hot spindle immersed in cold water (such as launching a boat) will draw water in past the rear seal. Note that boat trailer axles do not (usually) have electric drum brakes. The zerk fitting is there to add grease that will push this water back out.

                  Rob

                  Cate & Rob
                  (with Border Collies Molly & Angel + Kitties Hazel & Elsie)
                  2015 Reflection 303RLS
                  2022 F350 Diesel CC SB SRW Lariat
                  Bayham, Ontario, Canada

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    I believe the EZ Lube axles are primarily to be used for marine applications where a hub packed with grease will prevent water intrusion. For our rigs, its not necessary as others have stated where I do not use the EZ Lube system for greasing the hub. But in reality, the axle and hub assembly should be able to handle the owner greasing the EZ Lube hubs if they desired to do so, since marine axles have brakes as well. The seals should not leak if the EZ Lube hub is greased per the instructions.

                    Jim

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      The question is . . . why would you want to (blindly) add grease to your hubs? Bearing grease doesn't deteriorate unless overheated by a too tight or failing bearing. Admittedly, we are dealing with 1930's bearing technology. Consider that modern sealed bearings (on every truck out there) will run maybe 200K miles in the same grease. The purpose of cleaning and repacking the trailer bearings isn't to replace "worn out" grease . . . it is to inspect those 1930's technology bearings (and the same vintage brakes).

                      Rob
                      Cate & Rob
                      (with Border Collies Molly & Angel + Kitties Hazel & Elsie)
                      2015 Reflection 303RLS
                      2022 F350 Diesel CC SB SRW Lariat
                      Bayham, Ontario, Canada

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Cate&Rob I agree that trailer bearings are very old tech, and probably here to stay for a while longer. Dexter does make a unit bearing hub, however I would think the RV industry being the cheap as possible pigs they are would not want to pay for the update in tech.

                        Unfortunately Unit bearings in vehicles can fail at any time interval as they are man made components. I've had them changed at 10,000 miles, and then I have changed them at 180,000 miles. One should not forget their diligence and inspect the bearings at set intervals.

                        I am still considering converting to oil bath hubs as I hate having to pull them down to repack and I trust neither a trailer shop or the dealer to repack any farther than i could throw a full grown lead elephant. There are still talented mechanics (techs) that can do the job, but they are getting harder and harder to find and keep up with.
                        Joseph
                        Tow
                        Vehicle: 2024 GMC K3500 Denali Ultimate Diesel
                        Coach: 303RLS Delivered March 5, 2021
                        South of Houston Texas

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Originally posted by Jlawles2 View Post
                          Cate&Rob I am still considering converting to oil bath hubs as I hate having to pull them down to repack and I trust neither a trailer shop or the dealer to repack any farther than i could throw a full grown lead elephant. There are still talented mechanics (techs) that can do the job, but they are getting harder and harder to find and keep up with.
                          As I posted in your earlier thread about oil bath hubs on RVs: I had a lengthy conversation with the folks at MORryde last summer about oil bath hubs on RVs. Their response is that the internal volumes of the hubs are not sufficient for an air pocket to compress to handle the expansion of the contents when heated. They also said the small volumes of oil would not be enough for effective cooling. The internal volume available for oil in an RV hub is measured in ounces; the volume on tractor-trailers is measured in quarts to gallons. They said that attempting to convert an RV hub to oil bath would result in leaking seals and loss of lubricant. They highly recommended staying with a good quality grease and doing proper maintenance at regular intervals. We have been full-time for about six years and towed about 45,000 miles on properly maintained greased bearings without any issues at all.

                          Rob
                          Last edited by Second Chance; 05-20-2021, 07:50 PM.
                          Rob & Laura
                          U.S. Army Retired (Rob)
                          2012 F350 DRW CC Lariat PS 6.7, PullRite OE 18K
                          2020 Solitude 310GK-R, MORryde IS and disc brakes, solar, BB LiFePO4, DP windows
                          (Previously in a 2016 Reflection 337RLS)
                          Full time since 08/2015

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Originally posted by Cate&Rob View Post
                            The question is . . . why would you want to (blindly) add grease to your hubs? Bearing grease doesn't deteriorate unless overheated by a too tight or failing bearing. Admittedly, we are dealing with 1930's bearing technology. Consider that modern sealed bearings (on every truck out there) will run maybe 200K miles in the same grease. The purpose of cleaning and repacking the trailer bearings isn't to replace "worn out" grease . . . it is to inspect those 1930's technology bearings (and the same vintage brakes).

                            Rob
                            Agree Rob,

                            But for those that do, the grease should not move past the seal.

                            Jim

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Originally posted by Second Chance View Post

                              As I posted in your earlier thread about oil bath hubs on RVs: I had a lengthy conversation with the folks at MORryde last summer about oil bath hubs on RVs. Their response is that the internal volumes of the hubs are not sufficient for an air pocket to compress to handle the expansion of the contents when heated. They also said the small volumes of oil would not be enough for effective cooling. The internal volume available for oil in an RV hub is measured in ounces; the volume on tractor-trailers is measured in quarts to gallons. They said that attempting to convert an RV hub to oil bath would result in leaking seals and loss of lubricant. They highly recommended staying with a good quality grease and doing proper maintenance at regular intervals. We have been full-time for about six years and towed about 45,000 miles on properly maintained greased bearings without any issues at all.

                              Rob
                              Rob,

                              I worked on large trucks/tractors long ago and they do need higher volumes of oil to cool and to bath the bearings as they rotate through the oil. Its been many years but the best I recall they took a quart or so. The rear differential could take a few gallons that also lubricates the rear wheel bearings. A leaking seal on an oil bath system as cheaply made as our stuff would result in a bearing failure in a short period of time. A failed grease seal may throw grease on the brake but it will not strand you.

                              Jim

                              Jim

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                So this is where I have a slight issue. MORryde says no, but Kodiak has a kit for it https://www.etrailer.com/p-XLPROLUBE2440KIT.html MORryde sells suspension components. They probably have a lot of knowledge on axles and components, BUT --- https://www.kodiaktrailer.com/dexko-...ets-to-kodiak/ So Dexter now owns Kodiak.... Kodiak sells a conversion kit. One would think if Dexter bought a company that sells something that is detrimental they would kill the product line. And Kodiak specializes in hubs and brakes.

                                I might do one axle and see how it fares. I can always go back to grease. Yes I have been there and done that on axle failure with grease. I know what it looks like when bearings weld them selves to the shaft and you cannot find the hub, rim, or tire. Dexter has a very very professional quick acting warranty dept. Called Monday new axles with springs and bolts by Thursday and they found an installer to do the work where the trailer was located.
                                Joseph
                                Tow
                                Vehicle: 2024 GMC K3500 Denali Ultimate Diesel
                                Coach: 303RLS Delivered March 5, 2021
                                South of Houston Texas

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