Already 5,400 miles on the new rig. Questions!

[sportsdad60]

Assuming it was towed from Middlebury IN to TX, then purchased, I've estimated in my log book that we have 5,400 on the 310GK-R.

At what mileage would you repack the wheel bearings?

I was under the rig yesterday and greased up the zerk fittings on the CRE3000 bolts/joints.

I'm adding 4 Sumo springs on Friday because I'm a little concerned on our upcoming fishing trip, whereas we will be traveling on 25 miles of washboard-hell dirt road in and back (Hell Creek MT) I plan on using the hydraulic jacks to "lift" the tires on each respectable side when I do this install. Any issues I should be aware of in doing this?

[JCR GD]

I would inspect/repack now so I could be sure it was done properly. When lifting one side with hydraulic jacks be sure to ground the jacks on the other side to minimize tilt/weight shift.

[Country Campers]

The bearing repack is recommended 1 yr/12,000 miles, you are well under this. For piece of mind before this long trip you may want to repack them so you have that warm and fuzzy feeling of no worries. Just my 2 cents.

Brian

[d2reid]

I plan on using the hydraulic jacks to "lift" the tires on each respectable side when I do this install. Any issues I should be aware of in doing this?

Be double decker sure you are level enough the trailer will not slide.

To avoid frame twist I would lift the entire RV at once. When I had my disk brakes installed I put 2 sets of 4x4 wood blocks under each jack. I was on a level concrete pad. I used the manual mode in the level up system to raise the trailer by alternating front and rear, only lifting the perspective ends about 2-3 inches before changing to another set of jacks. Lifting slowly and smoothly without putting undue stress on anyone component or leaning the trailer excessively to one side.

On my RV the 8" of extra pads allows me to lift the axles completely off the ground, or control the height you want it.

The folks that did the work then put jack stands under the frame for safety. While I think the risk of hydraulic jack failure is low, the consequences could be fatal, so the extra safety of jack stands is warranted.

[howson]

sportsdad60 -- for the record, Lippert says "No!" to using the jacks in this manner. My purpose is to inform, not persuade.

Warning from the Ground Control manual below.

[sportsdad60]

That sounds like lawsuit prevention verbiage to me. But I get it.

[sportsdad60]

Be double decker sure you are level enough the trailer will not slide.

To avoid frame twist I would lift the entire RV at once. When I had my disk brakes installed I put 2 sets of 4x4 wood blocks under each jack. I was on a level concrete pad. I used the manual mode in the level up system to raise the trailer by alternating front and rear, only lifting the perspective ends about 2-3 inches before changing to another set of jacks. Lifting slowly and smoothly without putting undue stress on anyone component or leaning the trailer excessively to one side.

On my RV the 8" of extra pads allows me to lift the axles completely off the ground, or control the height you want it.

The folks that did the work then put jack stands under the frame for safety. While I think the risk of hydraulic jack failure is low, the consequences could be fatal, so the extra safety of jack stands is warranted.

Very good advice! I hadn't thought about lifting both sides simultaneously. Our RV is pretty darned level in our driveway as it sits. It was "auto leveled" with slides in when we returned from CO last week.
Both sides, the tires are barely touching so I think I only have to bring it up about 1 -2 " to get the weight off the suspension in order to install the Sumos. (Naturally after bringing the slides back in!)

Thanks all, great brain trust we have here!

[d2reid]

howson always brings the correct answer. That's a pretty dire warning in the manual. And should you have any system failure while extending the hydraulics to the maximum you are going to have damage. And if you happen to be under the RV during said failure you will die. Could happen. It's basic risk management. "Could happen" puts it in the middle category of risk but the severe consequences move it up to the "High Risk" level. . There are safer ways.

I have yet to find a "Why" behind the warning; well of course the obvious, jack fails and drops the trailer on you and kills you or it's sitting on a hill and slides off and kills you and breaks the trailer.

So at least you know the official word is to not to do it that way. Those of us that take the risk also accept the consequences. If anyone can find another risk factor for me to consider I would appreciate knowing it.

[sportsdad60]

Follow up:
Installed the Sumos in about 45 min today.

I used the hydraulics to 'lift' the compression off the spring shackles and dropped in two jack stands as a back up risk mitigation strategy (Once a project manager, always....)

The install is easy, and I did cut away the underbelly layment where the shocks would touch the frame. I did not need to relocated any gas lines or electrical brake lines.

We decided not to take this GD Solitude dry camping across 25 miles of washboard road. Instead we'll take our older F350 with the truck camper.
We would have to tow the boat with our 4Runner if we take the Solitude and wife is good at towing, but gas would double, from $600 to $1200 so we'll just tough it out in the truck camper for a week.

Our youngest son, now home from college, will take care of our 2 chocolate fur baby labs whiles we fish for 6 days!