Brakes screeching

[Hogdrv]

Two Questions - first the backstory: I live in Tucson and made a trip to Phoenix this past weekend and took the 320G. Temperatures were 115 -120 outside and my tires were running anywhere from 111 degrees to 122 degrees on the road - depending on which side the sun was on. And my air pressures were around 140 psi (125 is cold). No problem going to PHX, but coming home - two miles from our house, the temps and pressures were the same (air temp 115) = I had to make a panic stop, non of the tires locked up or skidded, but after a mile or two, one side of my trailer tires the temp rose to 132 - the air pressure didn't change - stayed at 141. There was no smoke, didn't feel like it handled any differently. When we pulled in front of our house to park - and my wife got out to help guide me, I pulled forward and we heard a very loud screeching noise coming from the 'hot' side of the trailer. (We don't know how long it had been making that noise - we couldn't hear it in the truck). I had to get out of the middle of the street and when I backed up - the screeching noise started, then went away. Maneuvering the truck into it's parking spot (which included forward and aft) the loud screech never came back. My thought is the magnetic part of the brakes stuck and backing it up - released it - but I'm not sure if that's correct. The temp never went above 132 degrees and the air pressure never went above 141. I'm going to be taking the wheel off and checking the brakes and bearings; my questions are: 1) What's the best way to jack up the tire? I've read the post about jacking under the U bolts - and I've also seen jacking up on the frame. It looks like jacking up on the frame I should hook up my truck (not sure if that's correct) - 2) Once I get the brake drum off - will I even be able to tell if something is obviously wrong - or should I just buy a whole new brake assembly to be on the safe side? Thanks in advance for any advice!
Jim

[Country Campers]

It is possible that the panic stop caused the brakes to hang up or stick. You are on the right track to remove the wheels and hubs to check and be sure all is good. If your driveway is pretty level this is what I do.
I auto level the RV , this helps to take a little weight off of the tires. Then , if enough weight is not removed , I will lower the jacks further to remove more weight. Removing weight with the jacks helps make it easier to jack up the axels and also helps stabilize the RV when jacking the axels. I then use a small bottle jack under the axel. I have 4 of the power built bottle jack/ jack stand combo that I use to service the brakes and bearings. A single bottle jack will do just fine , you just have to do one wheel at a time. If your driveway is not very level , sloping up or down , then I would recommend hooking up to truck so you do not have any issues with the RV trying to leave you while you are doing your service. Also in that case I would just lift one axel at a time.

Brian

[Hogdrv]

Thanks Brian, my parking spot is very level so that sounds like a great way to do it. I thought the same thing about the brakes. Once I get the hub off I’ll give an update, not sure when that will be, it is so nice now in Tucson, not

[EscapePod]

I would agree with the previous solution, not to take away from original poster. Has anyone else had their brakes grab on the TT while they were what I would assume wet from the rain. The past two trips with my 2800BH. I set the brakes when leaving home, and had no issues. On the return home it has either just rained or was raining and when I pulled out I had to turn the brakes setting from 5.4 to 4.2 to have smooth braking, and bump them back up during the trip to set them back to 5.4.

[ThePowells]

EscapePod Welcome to the Family and the forum! The moderators have taken the time to create a Welcome Letter to help new members have the best possible experience on the forum including posting tips, how to set up a signature line and searching the forums. You can find the letter at https://gdrvowners.com/forum/main-fo...to-new-members.

[Country Campers]

I would agree with the previous solution, not to take away from original poster. Has anyone else had their brakes grab on the TT while they were what I would assume wet from the rain. The past two trips with my 2800BH. I set the brakes when leaving home, and had no issues. On the return home it has either just rained or was raining and when I pulled out I had to turn the brakes setting from 5.4 to 4.2 to have smooth braking, and bump them back up during the trip to set them back to 5.4.

Yes I have had "grabby" brakes after rain. This has happened in the truck as well. The drums will get a little rusty when sitting for a while the same as some of the vehicle disc brakes causing them to grab a little. When ever we tow the first thing I do when we start moving is ride the trailer brakes a little. Gently use the manual brake slider on the controller to apply the trailer brakes. This will take care of any rust and also let me know if one or more brakes may be stuck or grabbing as they will drag , usually on gravel roads, plus it also lets me know the brakes are working.

Brian

[Hogdrv]

Country Campers I ordered a jack like you have and should get it on Friday but in the meantime I started looking around the wheels and found this, the bottom spring hanging out! Just grabbed it to get better picture and it broke. Glad I found something wrong. Do I need to get a whole need brake assembly or wait and see what is in store for me inside? Still under warranty also only about 4000 miles.
I also don’t know how to start the warranty process since I can’t drive the 5th wheel now and I trust myself more than the dealership here.
Jim

[Country Campers]

Hogdrv
If you have the time I would remove and inspect then order parts. You could contact Grand Design Customer Service, number on the home page have your vin ready,, and see what they say about warranty. Being as you had a panic stop they may not do anything, Dexter might be worth a call also. There is a tag on the center of each axel that they would need the info from.
A lot of times it is cheaper to buy the whole backing plate/brake assembly. The one thing you will have to do is wire the brake magnet if you do this. You should also replace the rear bearing seal, might as well repack and inspect the bearings while you are in there. Not trying to pile more work on but you will have it all apart.

Brian

[Hogdrv]

Those were my thoughts also, I just wanted to get some reinforcement from someone who knows more about trailers than me. Thanks

[Country Campers]

Jim

The bottle jack stand pad will not fit between the ubolts on the axel tube.. i cut a piece of oak to compensate for this, any wood would do. With the leveling Jack's down you will not be picking up much weight.

Brian

[Hogdrv]

Good to know, thanks. I’ll take some pictures this weekend, I hope and let you know how it worked.

[Hogdrv]

Country Campers Here are the pictures of my brakes, at least I know what’s broken! Contacted Grand Design about warranty and parts, I’ll let everyone know what they say. Brian, I ended up getting the power built 3 ton all in one jack, that I saw on another post , it fit my axles great.

[Country Campers]

Hogdrv

Jim

At least there is no grease flailing around on you brake shoes which is a good thing. Looks like some new parts and back on the road.

Brian

[Hogdrv]

I think so 👍

Jim

[familytruckster4]

Hogdrv

Jim

At least there is no grease flailing around on you brake shoes which is a good thing. Looks like some new parts and back on the road.

Brian

I think if you look close that the seal hasnt held up well and there is some grease on the armature surface, nothing a can of Brakleen wont cure but a seal failure for sure.