EZ Lube / bearing repack corundum

[Yoda]

HELP!!!!

Facts
I am leaving on a trip August 8th to Georgia. Its roughly 4000 miles round trip. Trailer has roughly 2000 miles on it now. 2018 model (Reflection 220RK)

Corundom
Dropped by the GD dealer today to re-verify my Aug 4th bearing repack or see if they had an earlier spot open up only to learn they will need it at least to the 7th and may not be done then. This leaves no time to finish packing and leave early AM on the 8th which is a must. So I started calling other places - everyone is booked as they lost a lot of mechanics.

I then called one of the two mobile tecks -NRVTA certified - if that means anything. He said to use the EZ lube system and even liked the Lukas red and sticky grease. I asked about blowing grease by the inner seals and he said if I do it correctly it won't/should not happen, His advise is spinning the wheel relatively fast (leave tire on to assist) while counting to 3 during each pump cycle (pump slow) He said most of the U-Tube vids they pump way too fast and dont spin the drum enough. With the miles I have on the trailer he said no need to remove, unless I find lot of wheel play. Discount Tire did not during the new tire install as I asked them to check. He even thought I should be good to go without the greasing due to the low miles.

Ill call the second mobile gentleman tomorrow.

I will be calling a few more shops tomorrow too. I did get some negative feedback on the dealers work too, but chalked that up to a sales job.

I have the grease (Red and Sticky) which exceeds the Dexter grease specification and appears to be comparable with the factory grease. I know the best solution is to pull the hubs and check everything, but everything is working (breaks, etc) If its not broke don't mess with it. Also finding parts in the town is rough, so timing is important.

So what would you do?

I am still trying to find a reputable shop to do the repack - but if all else fails

EZ lube the bearings?
Do nothing and do the job after I return due to only having 2000 miles on the trailer

I do have an infrared thermometer to check temps as I travel. Whats the upper temp limit? I assume I shot the wheel right where the cap attaches inside the bolt circle - I used to hand feel and never got too hot to touch unless I had run the brakes a while.

Thanks for the help - advice

Keith

[ThePowells]

Think outside of the box, RV box anyway. Boat and horse trailers are the same as RVs when it comes to wheels and bearings. Also, many independent shops can do it without blinking an eye.

[Cate&Rob]

Yoda
Hi Keith,

If you can't get someone that you know and trust to inspect and repack the bearings correctly, I would just leave them until after your trip. Using the zerk fitting to inject more grease is just asking for trouble (in my opinion) for all of the much discussed reasons. Bearing grease does not go away by itself (and need to be "replaced") unless there is a problem that can only be discovered by disassembly and inspection.

Have you considered doing this yourself? This is a far less complicated process than many of the things you have already accomplished on your Reflection.

Rob

[Country Campers]

I agree with Rob, do it yourself or at least jack each wheel up and check for play.

Brian

[Scott'n'Wendy]

In all likelihood your bearings will be fine over the next 4k miles, but,
I agree with Rob. You have demonstrated lots of diy talent on other jobs (and I haven't been here that long) and bearing repack is a pretty simple, if messy, job.
All you need is four axle seals, grease, shop towels, chunk of 2x4, degreaser, and an afternoon to kill.

[familytruckster4]

I would start by removing the phone number to the tech that told you to use the EZ lube and that there was "no need to remove"
Properly serviced hubs should not need additional grease between repacks.
Forgive me if I missed it, but have you had the bearings serviced before ?

[ncitro]

Yoda I agree with Rob, either get them packed and inspected or just run with them the way they are. As others suggested, if you are jacking it up to use the zerk you are halfway to repacking them by hand anyway. I would think you would probably be fine for that trip, especially if you monitor temps as you say. You are not looking for a maximum value as much as a deviation from one wheel to another on the same side. It will be normal to have one side running hotter than the other due to the sun location, but both wheels on the same side should run pretty close to each other.

To be safe you could jack them up and wiggle the wheels to see if you have any slop. As long as they are tight it should be able to wait until you get back.

[TucsonJim]

Keith - you'll likely be fine until you get back. "BUT" - If they've never been disassembled, that means the brakes and bearings have never been inspected either. As your RV approaches it's fourth birthday, it certainly is time to remove those hubs.

Jim

[OurNewEra]

Yoda I would take my trailer to a reputable and knowledge non-RV trailer shop or other repair shop to have my bearings repacked. But, if I don't suspect a problem indicated by wheel wiggle or high temps I don't think I would do anything to them with only 2000 miles. Modern day lubricants are much better, longer lasting, than they were 20 years ago.

A thought on the ez lube. Seems like the inner seals may get blown out because folks are trying to push cold grease out the front. What if you took the trailer for a spin to heat up the hubs and the grease, thinning it some. Then jack up and spin the wheel and slowly pump in the new grease.

I haven't read the directions for the ez lube but my stupid sense says that moving warmer grease out would be easier.

[Cate&Rob]

Just to be clear on "play" in a cold hub . . . the assembly process is to tighten the nut finger tight and then back off the nut until the cotter pin or retainer clip aligns. This often results in a barely perceptible play in the hub, particularly with the wheel installed. This is normal and is actually the desired condition. Every part of the assembly expands slightly as it warms up. If you were to check for this same play at operating temperatures . . . it will be gone. If there is absolutely no play in a cold hub, the nut could be too tight, causing too much bearing pre-load.

Rob

[Yoda]

Update
Problem solved.

I called the second Mobile repair place in the next town over - he is retired, but joined/invested with other folks that have a new full service repair facility and can get me in next week on Tuesday and I can wait and watch the repair, They have 5 fully certified folks. They also do rentals here in Durango. I plan to drive by today and check them out.

I also found that I had the axle print out from Dexter that I had forgot about - however having a tough time cross referencing from Dexter to Timken part numbers. Want to order some spare parts.

Axle data.pdf

[Retgw2]

Update
Problem solved.

I called the second Mobile repair place in the next town over - he is retired, but joined/invested with other folks that have a new full service repair facility and can get me in next week on Tuesday and I can wait and watch the repair, They have 5 fully certified folks. They also do rentals here in Durango. I plan to drive by today and check them out.

I also found that I had the axle print out from Dexter that I had forgot about - however having a tough time cross referencing from Dexter to Timken part numbers. Want to order some spare parts.

Axle data.pdf

Yoda Keith,

The information I have is that the 4400# axle uses Inner Bearing (L68149), Outer Bearing (LM67048) and Grease Seal 10-19. I carry the Timken Set6 (includes the LM67048 cone and LM67010 cup), the Timken Set17 ( Includes LM68149 cone and LM68111 cup) and the Timken 473336 Seal.

By the way, congrats on completing your solar install.

Brian

[Yoda]

Yoda Keith,

The information I have is that the 4400# axle uses Inner Bearing (L68149), Outer Bearing (LM67048) and Grease Seal 10-19. I carry the Timken Set6 (includes the LM67048 cone and LM67010 cup), the Timken Set17 ( Includes LM68149 cone and LM68111 cup) and the Timken 473336 Seal.

By the way, congrats on completing your solar install.

Brian

Thanks Brian. Your information makes sense and it is great to have it in one place. Through various places I am able to match what you have. Etrailer has some wrong information on the cup/face on thier web page for the same bearings. I had not found the seal crossover - thanks Now time to find some good prices and get them ordered.

And I appreciate the congrats on the solar install - every time I open the front compartment I shake my head on how did I do this. It was everyone here that made it possible.

Safe travels my friend.
Keith

[Cate&Rob]

Update
Problem solved.
. . . I can wait and watch the repair

Repacking wheel bearings is a job that sounds way more complicated than it is. There is one nut to remove . . . and it is only finger tight .

Once you see this done, you are going to be wondering why you haven't been doing this yourself, all along. Being able to pull a hub and solve a bearing or brake problem at any time you need to, is "comforting" knowledge to have.

Rob

[Yoda]

Repacking wheel bearings is a job that sounds way more complicated than it is. There is one nut to remove . . . and it is only finger tight .

Once you see this done, you are going to be wondering why you haven't been doing this yourself, all along. Being able to pull a hub and solve a bearing or brake problem at any time you need to, is "comforting" knowledge to have.

Rob

Thanks Rob The guy is going to do it in my drive as their new place is tough for 5th wheels to get near the shop - its built for TT.s right now. Future metal building for 5th wheels, etc will be built - 18 tall by 14 wide doors. TT Shop was very clean and they answered all the questions I had.

Now why am I going to pay to get it done? If I do it and screw up I will never forgive myself - nor would SWMBO . While I was there a traveler came in with a rig issue - they immediately helped the folks out - good in my book. They charge $60 a wheel plus parts - not bad for around here so around $300 all together. Dealer quoted 100 more and could not guarantee time done.

Ill try and get a few pictures so I can remember what they do.

One question - for ordering the bearings (to have on hand just in case) do I trust Amazon or go with a place like motionindustries.com and pay more? I want to make sure I get Timken. Opinion? Retgw2 Motion industry's verified all the part numbers from Dexter too. Yours are correct.