Extended Suspension Shackles??

[Tiff&Scott]

Our 2022 2400BH is about 2 inches too tall. We are exploring the option of swapping out the AC unit with a low-profile one, but figured looking into lowering the suspension as another possible solution. Could anyone help with the idea of installing longer suspension shackles in order the lower the trailer down over the axles by a couple inches? Is this even a good idea?

[chattacuda]

Our 2022 2400BH is about 2 inches too tall. We are exploring the option of swapping out the AC unit with a low-profile one, but figured looking into lowering the suspension as another possible solution. Could anyone help with the idea of installing longer suspension shackles in order the lower the trailer down over the axles by a couple inches? Is this even a good idea?

Some pics of your suspension would help a lot. Generally longer shackles introduce additional lateral movement that can be detrimental. Do you have adequate clearance between the top of your tires and the bottom of the wheel wells to lower it? Some folks have moved the axles over/under the the springs to lower/raise the campers it all depends on clearance available. If your carport is one of those portable kind, have you considered raising it with some spacers? May be cheaper than a new A/C unit.

I'm sure someone on here can provide some advise

Good luck!

[Jlawles2]

Before increasing the shackle length, have you looked to see if there is an additional set of holes in the spring supports?

[Cate&Rob]

Tiff&Scott

Welcome to our owners technical forum. When you have a chance, have a look at our welcome post. https://gdrvowners.com/forum/main-fo...to-new-members . This will help you set up your signature and navigate the forum. I note that you have posted the same question in two different threads . . . this will confuse the conversation and we try to avoid doing this.

Grand Design usually designs to 4" of clearance between the top of the tire and the body work with an unloaded trailer . . . expecting that this will be at least 3" when the trailer is loaded, which should be sufficient to avoid tire to body contact when towing. To purposely go to less than 3" would not be a good idea.

Rob

[Guest]

Our 2022 2400BH is about 2 inches too tall. We are exploring the option of swapping out the AC unit with a low-profile one, but figured looking into lowering the suspension as another possible solution. Could anyone help with the idea of installing longer suspension shackles in order the lower the trailer down over the axles by a couple inches? Is this even a good idea?

Your rig most likely has an overslung suspension system which means the springs sit above the axle. If you were to increase the length of the spring hangers, you would be raising the height of the rig. See the attached on the detriment in increasing hanger length. Increasing shackles can minimally lower height but will interfere with proper equalizer operation.
You may be able to convert to an underslung suspension but I doubt you would have the floor clearance to do this.

Much can be learned from this video. Front axle rise on braking (main contributor to rear hanger failure) and the hazards in messing with hanger length, increased shackle length and more.

Lowering spring position in the hangers will most likely result in tire/floor contact.

Best bet is to go with a low profile AC unit if that would buy you the clearance that you need.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bp5iRVPwYZg

Jim

[Jkwilson]

Our 2022 2400BH is about 2 inches too tall. We are exploring the option of swapping out the AC unit with a low-profile one, but figured looking into lowering the suspension as another possible solution. Could anyone help with the idea of installing longer suspension shackles in order the lower the trailer down over the axles by a couple inches? Is this even a good idea?

2” too tall for what? A storage building? If so, is it just the entrance or inside as well?

[Tiff&Scott]

2” too tall for what? A storage building? If so, is it just the entrance or inside as well?

It is a permanent "car port" anchored to a slab and constructed with aluminum trusses. We have already explored the idea of modifying the car port and concluded it would be cheaper and safer to not mess with the structure.

[ncitro]

It is a permanent "car port" anchored to a slab and constructed with aluminum trusses. We have already explored the idea of modifying the car port and concluded it would be cheaper and safer to not mess with the structure.

If it's peaked with gable ends you might be able to notch and trim out the gable for the AC unit.

When I installed my front AC I went with the Coleman low profile rather than the Dometic because I'd heard it was quieter and more reliable, and I've been happy. For the Coleman you'd need the unit obviously, a thermostat, and indoor cover. The indoor cover determines whether it's ducted or not so be sure to let them know you need it for a ducted install when you order. The thermostats are didn't depending if it needs to run your furnace as well, and if you have a heat pump out not. I elected to buy the heat pump model, it's been great for taking the chill out in combination with the fireplace when we have full hookups and do not want to run the furnace.

You'll need to look at your thermostat wire and see what you have. The Dometic requires three wires, the Coleman needs more depending on what version you buy. It's possible the Furrion might use a data cable rather than conventional thermostat wire which could make install difficult.

Edit: I just realized this was your suspension thread, moderator feel free to move this to his other thread if needed.

As far as suspension I would be leery of lowering it that much.

[Jkwilson]

It is a permanent "car port" anchored to a slab and constructed with aluminum trusses. We have already explored the idea of modifying the car port and concluded it would be cheaper and safer to not mess with the structure.

If bolted to the slab, a spacer under the “legs”with longer bolts would be a pretty easy fix. Shouldn’t take a couple of hours and ~$25. You might also be able to use a drop hitch to lower the rig when going in and out of the carport or it could be as simple as releasing the WDH bars to lower your rig.

[Cate&Rob]

If you are just "easing" the trailer through a low doorway into a building for winter storage, you could temporarily reduce the air pressure in the tires to get under the door frame. As long as you are moving slowly and in a straight line this should be OK. This assumes that you can return the tires to proper air pressure once inside the building.

Rob

[Guest]

X2, it should be easy to gain 2" of drop with reducing the tire pressure. A pain but certainly an inexpensive solution. Tire/wheel swap may get you some clearance if your rig comes with 15" combos. The original solution to go with a low profile AC unit would be painless if the building is worth the effort. Can always sell that old unit.

Jim

[Tiff&Scott]

We appreciate everyone's insight on this. We've have decided that messing with the suspension is not the way to go. Dometic AC unit on the way!

[Country Campers]

We appreciate everyone's insight on this. We've have decided that messing with the suspension is not the way to go. Dometic AC unit on the way!

Could you share some info on the Dometic unit, model number and parts required? I have been wanting to add a second AC on the front and will need the low profile model.

Thanks

Brian

[Tiff&Scott]

Could you share some info on the Dometic unit, model number and parts required? I have been wanting to add a second AC on the front and will need the low profile model.

Thanks

Brian

Once we have everything installed and working, I'll be happy to share that information!