So...while holding an inner bearing in my hand...I dropped it and the cage is slightly, though noticeably out of round. A little ding in it. So I bought another. Probably 3-4000km on the bearing. Do I need to replace the race as well?
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Well, I agree with changing both when a problem is found, but this wasn't a found problem, so
I wasn't sure.
Heres a pic of the ding2018 Dodge 3500 6.7 Cummins w Aisin and 9 cup holders
Not to brag or anything about my finances, but my bank calls me about every day to tell me my balance is OUTSTANDING!
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Have you actually measured the OD od the cage? To me it looks like the inner lip is bent in creating the illusion that the cage is deformed.
You might try dropping the bearing into the race and using a feeler gauge or some other method ensure the cage is free from rubbing. If so, provided there are not defects in the rollers, it should be go to go.Joseph
Tow Vehicle: 2024 GMC K3500 Denali Ultimate Diesel
Coach: 303RLS Delivered March 5, 2021
South of Houston Texas
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I had the same quandary when replacing fretted bearings on a previous trailer... do I replace the races, also??? Two schools of thought... the seemingly older: "yes, replace bearings and races in sets, always" and the newer: "manufacturing tolerances in both bearing sets and races are such that you can replace one without the other". I dunno, not an expert. Given the relatively inexpensive cost to replace both, I did... never gave it a second thought, or lost any sleep.
MikeMike & Sonya
2017 Silverado 1500, 5.3, Tow Pkg, RAS
Blue Ox SwayPro
2021 2400BH (DeBunked)
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If the bearings are worn or damaged . . . the race they were running against will be damaged as well . . . even if this damage is not visible. Whether “new” manufacturing tolerances are more accurate does not matter. A new bearing should run in a new race for best results.
RobCate & Rob
(with Border Collies Molly & Angel + Kitties Hazel & Elsie)
2015 Reflection 303RLS
2022 F350 Diesel CC SB SRW Lariat
Bayham, Ontario, Canada
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Regardless of the number of miles on the bearings, they have worn together. Both should be replaced (that's why consumer bearings are typically sold as a set) and let's not mention how cheap a complete set actually cost. For the extra $10 or less, is it worth being stuck in some place for 5 days waiting on parts???? What if you cannot use your camper for 3 months after paying for a hotel for 5 days waiting on parts?? Again that $10 or less is not worth the hassle, headache, and extended cost should something fail.
(Just ask me in person, I will show you the pictures of damage from NEW axles failing on a non GD unit).Joseph
Tow Vehicle: 2024 GMC K3500 Denali Ultimate Diesel
Coach: 303RLS Delivered March 5, 2021
South of Houston Texas
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Everything I have read says to replace both bearing and race together as a set.. I carry a full set of 4 (bearings, race, seals) along with extra seals in case a bake assembly needs to be checked. I also carry the tool to repack and a torque wrench and the large socket for the castle nut.. This takes up little room/weight, and is there just in case.
A tip - If you have Dexter axles send the axle tag information which is usually a big sticker on the axle to thier customer support department and you will get back a detailed build sheet with all of the components (springs, axle, hub, brakes, etc) along with the part numbers. I added this build sheet to the GD information in my folder so I always have it
Hope this helps
Keith2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th whee, Star White 2022 F350 King Ranch CC Long bed (HAL) (CCC 4062lbs), B&W 25K OEM Companion,. SteadyFast system, Trailer reverse lights, rear receiver spare tire holder, storage tube, sumo springs, Victron MultiPlus 12/120/3000, Solar, Custom 6K axles upgrade, and other modifications.
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I would need to see pictures of the cup to determine whether or not you need to replace it.
If you get an exact replacement bearing and there isn't any wear or damage on the cup you will be just fine since it's such low mileage.
The bearing you dropped is junk throw it away. And unless you have extensive experience replacing bearing cups, radial seals, double lip seals and all the special tools to do it well let's just say it's fairly straightforward but it's easy to screw up.
The main thing is cleaning all the old goop out in clean kerosene then drying the hubs and bearings then packing the bearing properly with a full synthetic extreme pressure Grease like Castrol pyroplex ES that's the best and using a bearing Packer you can get them for 15 bucks at your auto parts store. Don't mix grease types. If you're doing one bearing do them all and use the same Grease.
The next main thing is setting the proper preload. You want to rotate The Hub while you're tightening it down until all wobble and slack is gone then give it a little squeak more to seat it then back it off a little tiny bit and put the cotter pin in and it should move smoothly with two fingers not go around at a hundred miles an hour like a roulette wheel but it should move pretty smooth with just one or two fingers pressure on the lug stud and there shouldn't be any noticeable play in The Hub flange when you jerk on it back and forth.'20 Baby Grand 230RL
'93 Ford F350, 4WD, Crew, long box, 7.5L, SRW
Demco High Jacker 6076P-16k
Demco custom rails 8552005-71
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Originally posted by Cate&Rob View PostIf the bearings are worn or damaged . . . the race they were running against will be damaged as well
Rob
Thanks for the feedback everybody.
2018 Dodge 3500 6.7 Cummins w Aisin and 9 cup holders
Not to brag or anything about my finances, but my bank calls me about every day to tell me my balance is OUTSTANDING!
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