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We finally got around to installing our MORryde suspension upgrade, which included the typical CRE2-35 equalizer and Heavy Duty shackle kit, and I thought I would share my personal installation notes for anyone who is planning on doing this upgrade. I don't intend on going through the installation instructions, there are lots of resources online for that already, rather I thought I would share where I 'diverted' or any major highlights. However, if there are any questions on the installation, I know lots of us would be happy to answer them, so fire away. Also, if anyone else has any tips or tricks that they want to share for future users, please feel free to do so here!
Before I begin though, I must beg for forgiveness from the forum Gods as I was too involved in the installation to grab any pictures of the process, but again, there are lots of online instructions, so we can call it 'even Stephen'
Pre-Install Work
After receiving both packages through Amazon, and verifying measurements to make sure everything was good to go and I had the right parts, I did a double check on the grease zerks. I simply connected each bolt onto the grease gun and made sure they took grease, as I had read somewhere that other people found out some zerks wouldn't take grease after installing. Sure enough, all but one of the bolts took grease and no matter I couldn't get the zerk to take grease. I sent an email off to MORryde asking to confirm what size of zerk is used for replacement, which they replied the next day that it's M6x1.0. However, not only did they confirm what size of zerk to use, they offered to send me a whole new shackle with both bolts pressed on! I must admit, I was surprised and really appreciated MORryde stepping up like that for such a simple issue.
Raising the trailer
Before raising the trailer, I measured the height between the ground and frame to confirm that I had enough blocking. Well, it turns out I had the opposite problem, in that with a 2 row tower of 6x6s, the jack stands where too tall to fit under the frame by about an inch. I didn't want to extend my jack stands to their tallest setting on top of a single row of 6x6s, so I decided to drive all four wheels up onto 2x6s to gain an extra 1.5", and that worked like a charm.
I know there have been lots of discussions on proper raising techniques, which I greatly appreciated the additional information. To raise our trailer, I first started by lifting under the axles with a jack and a leaf spring saddle to cradle the tube, this got the tires off the 2x6s. After I removed the tires, I was able to lower each axle to obtain pressure on the jack stands. I placed the stands as close to the saddles as possible, and that help keep them out of the way. If they were further back, it would have been an obstacle to get around when working.
I left the trailer hitched to the truck for stability, and the only other thing I did when raising the trailer, that I didn't note elsewhere, was to undo the weight distribution bars. I did this so I didn't have that extra weight transferred from the bars on the trailer axles.
Installation
For the most part the installation went according to plan and what others have done, but I would say that the YouTube videos out there certainly make the process shorter than it is. With help from my father-in-law, the installation took about 5 hours, with the second side going much faster than the first. I would say having two people is a must, even though the videos out there make it look like you can do it on your own, the extra pair of hands help.
I would also highlight that there are some videos out there that show someone taking an impact gun to the bolt and not the nut for removal. Just remember, the bolts are knurled and if you smack those around, you will round out the eye of the hanger. Put the impact on the nut, and put a breaker bar on the bolt head, and then you will be good to go.
The one tip I saw online that I must share, and I wish I could take credit for this idea but I can't, to help align the spring eye with the hanger on the horizonal axis (front to back) place a breaker bar or wrench on the other bolt at the shackle end and use it to move the spring back and forth. Here is where I saw this idea https://youtu.be/cyzGWXdy71c - it's at around the 8:30 mark.
When pressing in the new bushings, I seen various tips online on how to best get them in. I tried both the c-clamp method and hammering, either way, they went in. In the end it probably would have helped to put them in the freezer before installation, and not out in the blazing sun, too late for that though. I did however, take one of the old bolts and filed down the serrations. Then, I put the bushing on that bolt and either pressed the clamp on the bolt, or hammered the bolt. This helped avoid damaging the bushing while pressing.
Post analysis
I haven't had a chance to tow trailer very far, so I cannot say if the towing experience is smoother with the new equalizer or not, but it seems somewhat smoother over bumps. However, I can say the suspension is much much quieter than what is was before, and this is the primary reason I did the installation. Near the end of last season, whenever we were pulling into a campground we were certainly getting looks, and not because of how awesome our truck and trailer look together
. No, unfortunately you could hear us on every bump in the road with our squeaky suspension, and this was telling me it was time to at least replace the bushing and bolts, so I decided to do the equalizer too since everything would be apart anyways. Again, I didn't feel our towing experience was awful before, but I don't think this change will hurt it.
We have about personally towed our trailer 8500kms, tracked by the built in trailer odometer, plus whatever distance the trailer was towed by delivery from the factory and towing it from one dealer lot to us, so call it 10,000kms. When taking the suspension apart, we found the nylon bushings on the center of the equalizers were worn the most, while the others seemed okay, which surprised me. I figured with all the metal on metal noise there would be more wear and tear, but again the center point on the equalizers seemed to have taken the brunt of it.
Would I do this again though? Certainly for the more robust shackles and wet bolts I would. However, I would be tempted to call around next time and see much installation would cost at a shop. The job was not technically challenging, but it does take time and is physically involved. However, it was still fun to do!
Before I begin though, I must beg for forgiveness from the forum Gods as I was too involved in the installation to grab any pictures of the process, but again, there are lots of online instructions, so we can call it 'even Stephen'
Pre-Install Work
After receiving both packages through Amazon, and verifying measurements to make sure everything was good to go and I had the right parts, I did a double check on the grease zerks. I simply connected each bolt onto the grease gun and made sure they took grease, as I had read somewhere that other people found out some zerks wouldn't take grease after installing. Sure enough, all but one of the bolts took grease and no matter I couldn't get the zerk to take grease. I sent an email off to MORryde asking to confirm what size of zerk is used for replacement, which they replied the next day that it's M6x1.0. However, not only did they confirm what size of zerk to use, they offered to send me a whole new shackle with both bolts pressed on! I must admit, I was surprised and really appreciated MORryde stepping up like that for such a simple issue.
Raising the trailer
Before raising the trailer, I measured the height between the ground and frame to confirm that I had enough blocking. Well, it turns out I had the opposite problem, in that with a 2 row tower of 6x6s, the jack stands where too tall to fit under the frame by about an inch. I didn't want to extend my jack stands to their tallest setting on top of a single row of 6x6s, so I decided to drive all four wheels up onto 2x6s to gain an extra 1.5", and that worked like a charm.
I know there have been lots of discussions on proper raising techniques, which I greatly appreciated the additional information. To raise our trailer, I first started by lifting under the axles with a jack and a leaf spring saddle to cradle the tube, this got the tires off the 2x6s. After I removed the tires, I was able to lower each axle to obtain pressure on the jack stands. I placed the stands as close to the saddles as possible, and that help keep them out of the way. If they were further back, it would have been an obstacle to get around when working.
I left the trailer hitched to the truck for stability, and the only other thing I did when raising the trailer, that I didn't note elsewhere, was to undo the weight distribution bars. I did this so I didn't have that extra weight transferred from the bars on the trailer axles.
Installation
For the most part the installation went according to plan and what others have done, but I would say that the YouTube videos out there certainly make the process shorter than it is. With help from my father-in-law, the installation took about 5 hours, with the second side going much faster than the first. I would say having two people is a must, even though the videos out there make it look like you can do it on your own, the extra pair of hands help.
I would also highlight that there are some videos out there that show someone taking an impact gun to the bolt and not the nut for removal. Just remember, the bolts are knurled and if you smack those around, you will round out the eye of the hanger. Put the impact on the nut, and put a breaker bar on the bolt head, and then you will be good to go.
The one tip I saw online that I must share, and I wish I could take credit for this idea but I can't, to help align the spring eye with the hanger on the horizonal axis (front to back) place a breaker bar or wrench on the other bolt at the shackle end and use it to move the spring back and forth. Here is where I saw this idea https://youtu.be/cyzGWXdy71c - it's at around the 8:30 mark.
When pressing in the new bushings, I seen various tips online on how to best get them in. I tried both the c-clamp method and hammering, either way, they went in. In the end it probably would have helped to put them in the freezer before installation, and not out in the blazing sun, too late for that though. I did however, take one of the old bolts and filed down the serrations. Then, I put the bushing on that bolt and either pressed the clamp on the bolt, or hammered the bolt. This helped avoid damaging the bushing while pressing.
Post analysis
I haven't had a chance to tow trailer very far, so I cannot say if the towing experience is smoother with the new equalizer or not, but it seems somewhat smoother over bumps. However, I can say the suspension is much much quieter than what is was before, and this is the primary reason I did the installation. Near the end of last season, whenever we were pulling into a campground we were certainly getting looks, and not because of how awesome our truck and trailer look together
. No, unfortunately you could hear us on every bump in the road with our squeaky suspension, and this was telling me it was time to at least replace the bushing and bolts, so I decided to do the equalizer too since everything would be apart anyways. Again, I didn't feel our towing experience was awful before, but I don't think this change will hurt it.We have about personally towed our trailer 8500kms, tracked by the built in trailer odometer, plus whatever distance the trailer was towed by delivery from the factory and towing it from one dealer lot to us, so call it 10,000kms. When taking the suspension apart, we found the nylon bushings on the center of the equalizers were worn the most, while the others seemed okay, which surprised me. I figured with all the metal on metal noise there would be more wear and tear, but again the center point on the equalizers seemed to have taken the brunt of it.
Would I do this again though? Certainly for the more robust shackles and wet bolts I would. However, I would be tempted to call around next time and see much installation would cost at a shop. The job was not technically challenging, but it does take time and is physically involved. However, it was still fun to do!
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