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I would be surprised if you can get away with bleeding only the one brake. Air bubbles migrate to the high points in an open system and reduce braking ability because they are compressible. If braking does not return to what it was before, I would recommend bleeding all brakes in the correct sequence. In my case, it was important to get the cross axle hoses as horizontal as possible to purge all the air.
Rob
Thanks for that info. I bleed the rear brakes yesterday (one being the new caliper), but was unable to bleed the front two. The two are on so tight, that the factory started to round the nut portion when they tightened them, and before I force them off, I need to buy a couple of new bleed screws. Took the trailer around the block, and best I can tell, everything is good.
Was kinda funny in that the only thing that was torque stripped on the suspension/brakes, was the bleed screws.
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