Reflection 220RK Frame Cracks

[NerkGDguy]

I’m following this thread to see what your trailer repair guy says. I’m not a structural engineer, but work around heavy steel supports quite a bit. Seeing the cracks in the middle of the web is concerning. Are there welded members on the opposite side of the web where the cracks are? Kind of looks like metal fatigue to me. Hopefully the repair facility welds some vertical gussets on both sides of these cracked areas. I couldn’t tell from the pictures, are these members I beams or C-channels? My TT is in storage but it is definitely a routine inspection item on the list for sure.

[Yoda]

I’m following this thread to see what your trailer repair guy says. I’m not a structural engineer, but work around heavy steel supports quite a bit. Seeing the cracks in the middle of the web is concerning. Are there welded members on the opposite side of the web where the cracks are? Kind of looks like metal fatigue to me. Hopefully the repair facility welds some vertical gussets on both sides of these cracked areas. I couldn’t tell from the pictures, are these members I beams or C-channels? My TT is in storage but it is definitely a routine inspection item on the list for sure.

Tim - if you look at the original pictures posted earlier you will see it is an I-beam frame. All of the cracks in the middle of the web either have an inside cross member welded to it or the improperly placed flange gussets cracked the web. The gussets should have gone full height and the cross members also welded to the flange, not just the web. I posted the repair photos above showing the repairs, including the fish plates over the web cracks - after cracks were welded from the inside and web stiffeners. In addition the I-beam frame has been fully sub-framed with 2"x2" box beam. Also to reduce web flexing a new cross member was installed behind the rear hangers.

Last when I do my axle upgrade/repair, I will be installing Morryde X-Factor cross bracing between the spring hangers side to side. This will help spread any further flexing between the frames.

The welder does have a concern about we may have over stiffened the frame putting more stress on the springs hangers - I don't share that concern, but will keep and eye out for any further cracking, especially at the spring hangers

Hope this helps you understand what the repair process was.

Keith

[NerkGDguy]

Keith,
I missed the repair pictures. Thanks for the detailed write up. It looks like your guy did a great job. Always good to see a good description of a problem and the solution.
Tim

[acoleman43]

Yoda, do you feel a sense of relief after all this? That is awesome. Glad you found a guy that looks to do quality work.

[Yoda]

Yoda, do you feel a sense of relief after all this? That is awesome. Glad you found a guy that looks to do quality work.

Thanks

Well lets say 95%.....Murphy seems to be dogging me lately. I think I will be fine once the axles are replaced. I know the axles I want, its the springs that have me bugged. I have axles 2200lb springs. The new axle will be a 7K thick wall tube with 6K hub for the bigger brakes, but do I go 3000 - 5 leaf or 3500 6 leaf for the extra lift with out using blocks. All three, including the OEM 2200 appear to have the same 2 first leafs based on thickness and length, and possibly the 3 first leafs, so the initial compression is the same for all of them. I want US steel so they may be Rockwell SW5 (2950LB) or the SW6 (3500lb). One more decision that will haft to wait for next year.

I leave Saturday for Mississippi (sans trailer) back after New Year. Now that winter and snow is hear everything will be a spring project, I need to have everything done for the late summer trip to Georgia again and then loop south along the gulf coming back.

Now for a bit of irony . The Farmington frame shop called Monday saying they were ready to get me in. I explained to them as they had not contacted me or Lippert for over a month that I had found someone else local to do the work and that it had been done - they seem surprised. I told then that communication with customers was very important, and they seem to imply by the lack of returning calls or emails that the did not want my business so I took it elsewhere. He quickly said god-by with out a seasons greeting or anything - so much for me recommending anyone to them.

Merry Christmas
Keith

[Beachcamper]

Yoda , glad you are finally getting this almost resolved, Lippert was good to deal with when I had that hanger bracket sheer off. I don’t know if you remember a few years back when GD gutted my main living area because kitchen slide crowned the floor and had to be beefed up with additional rollers. The frame needed additional outriggers welded to support weight of slide. The frame had to be recambered as well. I had gone to Lippert to further strengthen the axle area and reinforce hangers with V clips. They suggested their fix which is called an Axle Retro. Basically 2 x 2 welded like you did to what they refer to as a crush tube. I asked about them why not go hanger to hanger as the Morryde X factor. He thought that after doing the Axle Retro having a bit of flex in the hangers was a good idea and did not recommend further stiffening of that area you can ask them about that for your situation.

Here is the post of that ordeal, scroll down to #10

https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...rfail-bushings

[acoleman43]

Thanks

Well lets say 95%.....Murphy seems to be dogging me lately. I think I will be fine once the axles are replaced. I know the axles I want, its the springs that have me bugged. I have axles 2200lb springs. The new axle will be a 7K thick wall tube with 6K hub for the bigger brakes, but do I go 3000 - 5 leaf or 3500 6 leaf for the extra lift with out using blocks. All three, including the OEM 2200 appear to have the same 2 first leafs based on thickness and length, and possibly the 3 first leafs, so the initial compression is the same for all of them. I want US steel so they may be Rockwell SW5 (2950LB) or the SW6 (3500lb). One more decision that will haft to wait for next year.

I leave Saturday for Mississippi (sans trailer) back after New Year. Now that winter and snow is hear everything will be a spring project, I need to have everything done for the late summer trip to Georgia again and then loop south along the gulf coming back.

Now for a bit of irony . The Farmington frame shop called Monday saying they were ready to get me in. I explained to them as they had not contacted me or Lippert for over a month that I had found someone else local to do the work and that it had been done - they seem surprised. I told then that communication with customers was very important, and they seem to imply by the lack of returning calls or emails that the did not want my business so I took it elsewhere. He quickly said god-by with out a seasons greeting or anything - so much for me recommending anyone to them.

Merry Christmas
Keith

95% is not bad

As far as springs, you may want to look at the Roadmaster Comfortride suspension system which includes the shocks with the slipper spring. The shocks will take a portion of the load off the springs and help reduce bounce and porpoising and the slipper springs kinda act like independent suspension where one axel movement doesn't transfer to the other axel.

[Guest]

A great recommendation. The Roadmaster Comfortride system should be offered on all our rigs. Shocks dampen input and the slipper spring design completely eliminates front axle rise on heavy braking. Its a better system.

Jim

[Cate&Rob]

I would be cautious with the slipper spring system mentioned. One slipper spring is operating “backwards” . . . slipper end leading. The dampers (shocks) are “one size fits all” . . . no tuning differences for light or heavy trailers. A properly designed and damped slipper spring system would be an advantage but this goes all the way back to the frame. The standard tandem equalizer system shares the load. A slipper spring system is independent and each axle (including wheels and tires) must be able to carry the entire weight of the trailer crossing a speed bump or similar.

Rob

[Yoda]

I would be cautious with the slipper spring system mentioned. One slipper spring is operating “backwards” . . . slipper end leading. The dampers (shocks) are “one size fits all” . . . no tuning differences for light or heavy trailers. A properly designed and damped slipper spring system would be an advantage but this goes all the way back to the frame. The standard tandem equalizer system shares the load. A slipper spring system is independent and each axle (including wheels and tires) must be able to carry the entire weight of the trailer crossing a speed bump or similar.

Rob

Thanks Rob - learned something new on how slipper springs work. I will be sticking with my Dexter E-Z flex suspension and double eye springs https://www.dexteraxle.com/Dexter-E-Z-Flex that came on the trailer and still use the sumo springs as dampers/bumper stops. I will not have them under initial compression as the are now, but probably a 1/2" gap before contact due to the stiffer springs I will be installing.

Merry Christmas
Keith

[Guest]

I would be cautious with the slipper spring system mentioned. One slipper spring is operating “backwards” . . . slipper end leading. The dampers (shocks) are “one size fits all” . . . no tuning differences for light or heavy trailers. A properly designed and damped slipper spring system would be an advantage but this goes all the way back to the frame. The standard tandem equalizer system shares the load. A slipper spring system is independent and each axle (including wheels and tires) must be able to carry the entire weight of the trailer crossing a speed bump or similar.

Rob

Rob,

I would take dampers that are not optimized over no dampers at all. True the slipper systems axle does not share the load between axles but the MorRyde system does not as well. In our current configuration, heavy braking will raise the front axle and overload the rear axle, shock the rear hangers in addition to overloading the rear tires. No wonder most failures occur on the rear axle in our configuration. Slipper systems have worked well on heavy trucks before air ride systems were introduced and in our current configuration one axle is anchored backwards as well which causes the axle rise. I believe there are a few members here that have them where their input would be valuable.
I believe any suspension system is better than what we have.

Jim

[Guest]

Here is a visual comparison between the Equalizer and Slipper spring system. Its really time GDRV offers a better system be it slipper, fully independent or pneumatic.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xZQXypIqZmU

In the second video below at 2:29, front axle rise can be seen and shows how our current systems behave during heavy braking. Quite simply, the rear axle is carrying most of the rig and is being overloaded. This shows, the more braking force that is applied, the less braking ability we actually have.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bp5iRVPwYZg

Jim

[Yoda]

Update

GD has outdone themselves and Jennifer gets the credit. Two packages showed up unexpectedly at my door this morning. GD replaced my corolplast and the foil barrier - no charge. To me this is why I bought a GD product - thier customer service can't be beat and they want to help when something goes wrong. Sometimes it just takes time and asking politely if there is anything they can do. Now if Lippert could just do the same in getting me my reimbursement for the frame crack repair they have promised.



Ill haft to trim the foil and when I get a good warm day this spring get it attached/bonded to the coroplast. Any suggestion on the best approach? Was going to use 3M spray adhesive. I am also thinking of sealing the edges before hand withe a black silicone sealer. Was gong to make a wood block with a slot and hole for the caulking tip to fit from the back side to the slot and run it along the edge as I pump in the sealant.

Keith

[Jlawles2]

Avoid spray adhesive if possible as it makes a MESS.

3/8" or 1/2" nap roller and go to town. Also gallon is muck less $$$ than spray. Keep the extra pennies for the tools...

BTW: https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-1...7044/313257505 auto mode, set pressure on dial, hit trigger 1x and let it rip. stops when it reaches pressure.

[Yoda]

Avoid spray adhesive if possible as it makes a MESS.

3/8" or 1/2" nap roller and go to town. Also gallon is muck less $$$ than spray. Keep the extra pennies for the tools...

BTW: https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-1...7044/313257505 auto mode, set pressure on dial, hit trigger 1x and let it rip. stops when it reaches pressure.

Sorry Joseph - but good try. I have a Viair portable already https://www.viaircorp.com/portables/450p-rv-auto.

Keith