LP seems blocked

[Schiefswret]

CC, I didn’t think of that as I did the swap out routine with the two tanks but that would have been a good idea, tks!

[Schiefswret]

CC, I didn’t think of that as I did the swap out routine with the two tanks but that would have been a good idea, tks!

UPDATE: Well, I guess this is plan B. Looking for your help/input again. Here’s the scenario: Next day, getting ready to cook dinner, you guessed it, again, plenty of spark, but no gas = no flame. So I thought, I’ll repeat the same action as last yesterday.

So I flipped on the LP gas switch to the HWH and waited a minute. Sure enough the stove top burners fired up. While the burners are operating, I turned off the LP to the stove and they continued to operate as normal. Waited 5 minutes and tried again, all well. Waited 15 min and the burners are still firing up so, gas is still, at the moment, getting to the stovetop.

Current plan is to wait an hour and see if the stovetop still operates as normal. If anyone has experienced this type of LP behavior or knows others who have and can add some thoughts to a solution, that would be greatly appreciated. Will advise if anything changes. Thanks in advance.

[howson]

UPDATE: Well, I guess this is plan B. Looking for your help/input again. Here’s the scenario: Next day, getting ready to cook dinner, you guessed it, again, plenty of spark, but no gas = no flame. So I thought, I’ll repeat the same action as last yesterday.

So I flipped on the LP gas switch to the HWH and waited a minute. Sure enough the stove top burners fired up. While the burners are operating, I turned off the LP to the stove and they continued to operate as normal. Waited 5 minutes and tried again, all well. Waited 15 min and the burners are still firing up so, gas is still, at the moment, getting to the stovetop.

Current plan is to wait an hour and see if the stovetop still operates as normal. If anyone has experienced this type of LP behavior or knows others who have and can add some thoughts to a solution, that would be greatly appreciated. Will advise if anything changes. Thanks in advance.

Dave,
I'm not an expert on propane systems. I don't "know" the answer, but if you don't mind some (hopefully) logical reasoning based on this thread's documentation I have a recommendation.

First--what do I suggest? Change out the regulator. Why? Easily the most common problem on propane systems I've read on RV forums over the last several years.

Why do I think that could be the problem? Because changing out the tanks seemed to resolve the problem. This change unsettled/disturbed/disrupted the regulator possibly allowing it to work.

Why is the range not working but water heater and refrigerator are working? The latter two have 5/16" lines that are ~60" long feeding them. The stove has a 1/2" diameter line that is 108" long! All three of these lines come off the same distribution block at the end of the gas line (furthest from the regulator). To me that means more "umph" is needed to supply propane to the range than the other appliances. (I write "umph" because I don't know what the technical term is--as I said I'm no propane expert.) Once the other appliances are getting propane through their 5/16" lines, the regulator then allows more to pass to feed the range, but gets stuck(?) closed when it is range alone.

I could be 100% wrong, but changing the regulator is what I'd try in your place.

If the regulator is not the problem it is the range, the 1/2" line feeding the range, or the distribution block connection where the 1/2" connects. (There could be a bit of debris in the line.)

Keep at it--you'll find it.

Howard

[Schiefswret]

Dave,
I'm not an expert on propane systems. I don't "know" the answer, but if you don't mind some (hopefully) logical reasoning based on this thread's documentation I have a recommendation.

First--what do I suggest? Change out the regulator. Why? Easily the most common problem on propane systems I've read on RV forums over the last several years.

Why do I think that could be the problem? Because changing out the tanks seemed to resolve the problem. This change unsettled/disturbed/disrupted the regulator possibly allowing it to work.

Why is the range not working but water heater and refrigerator are working? The latter two have 5/16" lines that are ~60" long feeding them. The stove has a 1/2" diameter line that is 108" long! All three of these lines come off the same distribution block at the end of the gas line (furthest from the regulator). To me that means more "umph" is needed to supply propane to the range than the other appliances. (I write "umph" because I don't know what the technical term is--as I said I'm no propane expert.) Once the other appliances are getting propane through their 5/16" lines, the regulator then allows more to pass to feed the range, but gets stuck(?) closed when it is range alone.

I could be 100% wrong, but changing the regulator is what I'd try in your place.

If the regulator is not the problem it is the range, the 1/2" line feeding the range, or the distribution block connection where the 1/2" connects. (There could be a bit of debris in the line.)

Keep at it--you'll find it.

Howard

Howard, I didn’t want to admit it but several times along this process I thought to myself, “what about the regulator?” and promptly disregarded any further thought. 😖
So even if I experience no further problems, as soon as I get done typing here I’ll order (or find one locally) a new regulator and put it on and report back. Really appreciate your revitalizing the thought of replacing the regulator. MUCH thanks! Dave

note: found a Camping World near my current campsite so I’ll get a new regulator tomorrow. Will report back. Thanks again.

[Schiefswret]

Dave,
I'm not an expert on propane systems. I don't "know" the answer, but if you don't mind some (hopefully) logical reasoning based on this thread's documentation I have a recommendation.

First--what do I suggest? Change out the regulator. Why? Easily the most common problem on propane systems I've read on RV forums over the last several years.

Why do I think that could be the problem? Because changing out the tanks seemed to resolve the problem. This change unsettled/disturbed/disrupted the regulator possibly allowing it to work.

Why is the range not working but water heater and refrigerator are working? The latter two have 5/16" lines that are ~60" long feeding them. The stove has a 1/2" diameter line that is 108" long! All three of these lines come off the same distribution block at the end of the gas line (furthest from the regulator). To me that means more "umph" is needed to supply propane to the range than the other appliances. (I write "umph" because I don't know what the technical term is--as I said I'm no propane expert.) Once the other appliances are getting propane through their 5/16" lines, the regulator then allows more to pass to feed the range, but gets stuck(?) closed when it is range alone.

I could be 100% wrong, but changing the regulator is what I'd try in your place.

If the regulator is not the problem it is the range, the 1/2" line feeding the range, or the distribution block connection where the 1/2" connects. (There could be a bit of debris in the line.)

Keep at it--you'll find it.

Howard

Update: Current senerio: still no gas getting back to stovetop, however- if I fire up HWH on gas, almost immediately the stove top burners will light up just like normal.
Next: purchased a new regulator today from local RV retailer. Will install tomorrow and report back on the results. Thinking that Howard is correct. Thanks again fellas.

[Yoda]

Update: Current senerio: still no gas getting back to stovetop, however- if I fire up HWH on gas, almost immediately the stove top burners will light up just like normal.
Next: purchased a new regulator today from local RV retailer. Will install tomorrow and report back on the results. Thinking that Howard is correct. Thanks again fellas.

Hmmmmmm Fired up the water heater and the stove works???? Do the new regulators on the 2020 units have built in leak shut off? But then the fridge would be out too. This is a strange one at that. The regulator works for high volume (WH), low volume (fridge), and not medium volume (stove). Never heard of a regulator failing that way. Usually they just stop working. Question - does Dave's stove have an electric valve that must sense gas to turn on?

one other thought. Dave on my Reflection the curb side tank has it own regulator (bright red) the tank hose ties into it and then there is a hose the runs across to the street side and ties into the auto switch over valve that sits above the street side main regulator. On the auto switch over valve is a black handle that needs to point to the tank in use(its hare to see). Double check that your valve is fully turned to the tank you're using. I vaguely remember a thread a while back that someone had the handle in a mid point position and had gas flow issues. howson

[Schiefswret]

Hmmmmmm Fired up the water heater and the stove works???? Do the new regulators on the 2020 units have built in leak shut off? But then the fridge would be out too. This is a strange one at that. The regulator works for high volume (WH), low volume (fridge), and not medium volume (stove). Never heard of a regulator failing that way. Usually they just stop working. Question - does Dave's stove have an electric valve that must sense gas to turn on?

one other thought. Dave on my Reflection the curb side tank has it own regulator (bright red) the tank hose ties into it and then there is a hose the runs across to the street side and ties into the auto switch over valve that sits above the street side main regulator. On the auto switch over valve is a black handle that needs to point to the tank in use(its hare to see). Double check that your valve is fully turned to the tank you're using. I vaguely remember a thread a while back that someone had the handle in a mid point position and had gas flow issues. howson

Thanks Yoda. I’m going to install what seems to be the most popular model (6020) (F273766). As described in the Install sheet, the black changeover lever (handle) does not allow or prevent flow of any gas. “place one of the cylinders in “Supply” by rotating the changeover lever either way as far as it will go. The arrow will denote the “Supply” service side. Open BOTH cylinder valves slowly. Gas will now flow from BOTH cylinders through the pigtails.......bla bla bla

Sounds to me like the purpose of the black changeover lever is to let you know which tank is being drawn from first, however, I’m not sure about that. If the whole deal is called an “Auto Changeover Two-Stage Regulator”, it seems to me that once the first tank empties, it will Automatically change over to the opposite tank whether the Camper is present or not and whether or not the changeover lever is moved to the opposite side or not (e.g. middle of the night, away from the RV, etc, etc.) Seems to me that If the owner would have to be present to move the lever over, there would be nothing “Automatic” about it.

All inputs and observations welcome.

[Country Campers]

Thanks Yoda. I’m going to install what seems to be the most popular model (6020) (F273766). As described in the Install sheet, the black changeover lever (handle) does not allow or prevent flow of any gas. “place one of the cylinders in “Supply” by rotating the changeover lever either way as far as it will go. The arrow will denote the “Supply” service side. Open BOTH cylinder valves slowly. Gas will now flow from BOTH cylinders through the pigtails.......bla bla bla

Sounds to me like the purpose of the black changeover lever is to let you know which tank is being drawn from first, however, I’m not sure about that. If the whole deal is called an “Auto Changeover Two-Stage Regulator”, it seems to me that once the first tank empties, it will Automatically change over to the opposite tank whether the Camper is present or not and whether or not the changeover lever is moved to the opposite side or not (e.g. middle of the night, away from the RV, etc, etc.) Seems to me that If the owner would have to be present to move the lever over, there would be nothing “Automatic” about it.

All inputs and observations welcome.

Underneath the black lever is a small glass window. When this window is red the tank the lever is pointing to is empty. When green the tank is full. How this works is pointing to a tank and both valves open the RV will draw from that tank. When that tank is empty it will automatically switch to the other tank, hopefully it is a full one , and the window will show red meaning that the first tank , the one that the lever is pointing to is empty. At this time when you rotate the lever to point at the full tank that is being used it will change to green. This allows you to turn off the first tank and remove to be filled. After re-install and the new tank valve is opened the process is repeated. I do not use this feature because if there is a problem you could possibly end up with 2 empty tanks and a cold RV (not good , I have done this) but this is a good feature.

Brian

[ckreef]

Thanks Yoda. I’m going to install what seems to be the most popular model (6020) (F273766). As described in the Install sheet, the black changeover lever (handle) does not allow or prevent flow of any gas. “place one of the cylinders in “Supply” by rotating the changeover lever either way as far as it will go. The arrow will denote the “Supply” service side. Open BOTH cylinder valves slowly. Gas will now flow from BOTH cylinders through the pigtails.......bla bla bla

Sounds to me like the purpose of the black changeover lever is to let you know which tank is being drawn from first, however, I’m not sure about that. If the whole deal is called an “Auto Changeover Two-Stage Regulator”, it seems to me that once the first tank empties, it will Automatically change over to the opposite tank whether the Camper is present or not and whether or not the changeover lever is moved to the opposite side or not (e.g. middle of the night, away from the RV, etc, etc.) Seems to me that If the owner would have to be present to move the lever over, there would be nothing “Automatic” about it.

All inputs and observations welcome.

This is my understanding of how the regulator works.

You have two full tanks installed and both turned on. Whichever tank the lever is pointing to is the supply tank.(call that tank #1) At this point the little window will show either green or black indicating the supply tank has propane in it. When the supply tank (tank #1) runs out the regulator will automatically switch over to the other tank ( #2) and the little window will show red indicating the original supply tank (#1) is empty. (the lever doesn't move)

At this point you see red in the window and the way the lever is pointing is the empty tank (#1). Remove that tank, get it refilled, reinstall it and turn it back on. Flip the lever over to (#2) and the red will clear out and go back to green or black. At this point #2 is now the indicated supply tank.

Even though the regulator automatically switches over the manual lever is there to clear out the red empty tank window and let's you know which tank your currently on.

Hopefully that made a little sense. I too was confused at first thinking the lever would automatically flip but it doesn't even though the regulator has changed to a new supply tank.

[Schiefswret]

This is my understanding of how the regulator works.

You have two full tanks installed and both turned on. Whichever tank the lever is pointing to is the supply tank.(call that tank #1) At this point the little window will show either green or black indicating the supply tank has propane in it. When the supply tank (tank #1) runs out the regulator will automatically switch over to the other tank ( #2) and the little window will show red indicating the original supply tank (#1) is empty. (the lever doesn't move)

At this point you see red in the window and the way the lever is pointing is the empty tank (#1). Remove that tank, get it refilled, reinstall it and turn it back on. Flip the lever over to (#2) and the red will clear out and go back to green or black. At this point #2 is now the indicated supply tank.

Even though the regulator automatically switches over the manual lever is there to clear out the red empty tank window and let's you know which tank your currently on.

Hopefully that made a little sense. I too was confused at first thinking the lever would automatically flip but it doesn't even though the regulator has changed to a new supply tank.

thank you Charles!, that was my understanding also but you were able to explain it in a much clearer way. The only point I wanted to pass along to others is the more than rare incorrect ideas that 1) the black “lever” physically moves automatically and 2) that gas will only be taken/drawn from the tank that it is pointed to, which seems to be a fairly common misunderstanding from newer RV’s. Thanks again, much appreciate your input and clarification. Travel safe.

[Schiefswret]

Underneath the black lever is a small glass window. When this window is red the tank the lever is pointing to is empty. When green the tank is full. How this works is pointing to a tank and both valves open the RV will draw from that tank. When that tank is empty it will automatically switch to the other tank, hopefully it is a full one , and the window will show red meaning that the first tank , the one that the lever is pointing to is empty. At this time when you rotate the lever to point at the full tank that is being used it will change to green. This allows you to turn off the first tank and remove to be filled. After re-install and the new tank valve is opened the process is repeated. I do not use this feature because if there is a problem you could possibly end up with 2 empty tanks and a cold RV (not good , I have done this) but this is a good feature.

Brian

Thanks Brian, a very helpful explanation.

[Schiefswret]

Final UPDATE: installed new regulator and both pigtails. So far, all LP functions are working as designed. I APPRECIATE everyone’s input which was invaluable in my search for a solution.

Travel safe!