Looking for input on two mods I'm considering

[phi413]

Hello,

I have a mod that I'm considering for my 2021 Transcend 261BH, and I'm looking for input and opinions on feasibility.

Regarding the outdoor kitchen. I've read that some here have upgraded the two-burner cooktop to a Blackstone, which is awesome! But I actually like the cheap factory cooktop--I think it comes from 20 years of tent camping and cooking with a Coleman stove. Anyway, what I hate is having to connect the LP gas line under the trailer every time I want to cook, and then disconnecting it every time I want to close the outdoor kitchen. My connection is far under the trailer and it's hard to get to. What I'd like to do is replace the stock rubber hose with a longer hose, permanently connect it into the quick connect, run it through the underbelly and into the outdoor kitchen space and connect it to the cooktop permanently. It's flexible, so it'll move in and out with the cooktop, and can stay connected even with the cooktop pushed in and the compartment closed. Any thoughts? Is there a glaring flaw in my plan that I'm missing?


Thank you for any help!

Grant

[Country Campers]

phi413

Grant

Please separate this, put the tank question in the "Plumbing" channel, then remove it from this post. This will keep the topics seperated.

Brian

[howson]

Any thoughts? Is there a glaring flaw in my plan that I'm missing?

Hi Grant--welcome to the forum. Noted that was your first post, so when you get a chance check out the Welcome Letter to New Members: https://gdrvowners.com/forum/main-fo...to-new-members Also, if you need help separating your two questions just holler back and either myself or Brian will take care of it. (You're new--it's OK!)

For the propane mod the only issue that brings up a concern is any unintended consequence or oversight since the line will move. There's a lot going on back there--furnace, water heater, black and gray tanks...

The quick disconnect comes off it's own distribution block and is listed with these words: 1/2" QUICK DISCONNECT VALVE EXT COOKTOP 12,400 BTU 1/4" I.D. x 34" FLEX HOSE w/9" EXTENSION

It may be possible to replace the existing line (since it is a single entity off that distribution block) with a longer hose and remount the quick disconnect closer to where you actually cook.

This is all speculation--just postulating a possibility (by looking at possibly old and outdated info). Hope it helps at least present an option or something to consider.

Please follow-up with what you end up doing. Mods are something this forum likes reading about!

Again, welcome.

Howard

[Jlawles2]

I think the reason the outside kitchens are on a disconnect has more to do with SAFETY. In the unlikely event one of the knobs gets bumped and turned to a partially on position, the outside kitchen compartment can become filled with GAS vapors that can lead to an unexpected rapid expansion of gases up to and most likely including excessive heat (AKA EXPLOSION AND FIRE).

I know on our TT I hated the gas line having to be connected as it was a Pain and seemed like the line was 3" too short.

[TedS]

As a compromise, get a hose with a valve. You would have to remember to turn it off when not using propane. I use one with my Blackstone griddle.

[ThePowells]

phi413 Grant, Welcome to the Family and the forum!

[phi413]

All,

Thank you for the responses, and hopefully I've edited/separated the original post correctly. Safety was mentioned, and of course, that's my main concern. I've thought long and hard about this, and I don't love the concept of routing the gas line inside the outdoor kitchen, which means that it's virtually inside the trailer. But I thought about it and realized that that's already true for the lines for the water heater, furnace, refrigerator, and oven/stovetop, so what's the difference? I also thought that sliding the drawer/cooktop in and out all the time may cause a problem, but that also is already true of the fridge and oven, since they're built into the slide. My intention would be to always have the valve under the trailer closed when not cooking for an added element of safety, but that will surely be overlooked sometimes. In the end, I think it's worth trying, since I can always go back to the way it is now. I'll give some thought to the ideas above and post what I end up doing. Thank you all for the help!

Grant

[bellis]

All,

Thank you for the responses, and hopefully I've edited/separated the original post correctly. Safety was mentioned, and of course, that's my main concern. I've thought long and hard about this, and I don't love the concept of routing the gas line inside the outdoor kitchen, which means that it's virtually inside the trailer. But I thought about it and realized that that's already true for the lines for the water heater, furnace, refrigerator, and oven/stovetop, so what's the difference? I also thought that sliding the drawer/cooktop in and out all the time may cause a problem, but that also is already true of the fridge and oven, since they're built into the slide. My intention would be to always have the valve under the trailer closed when not cooking for an added element of safety, but that will surely be overlooked sometimes. In the end, I think it's worth trying, since I can always go back to the way it is now. I'll give some thought to the ideas above and post what I end up doing. Thank you all for the help!

Grant

Very much looking forward to a detailed post with pics of what you do. My wife wants me to do the Blackstone upgrade in our Imagine. She says the burners are too low and in the wind basically unusable to get water boiling. I do not know if this is a propane flow issue OR if it is just an issue with the burners....IE takes forever to cook on the factory gear. Keep us all posted!