2023 Solar Prep Lines (where do they go)

[tmakie]

I have a 2023 280RS and in the front storage area there a a couple of lines which I am assuming are associated with the standard "solar prep" with the 2023s.

Where do these line go? One says "solar inv line" (orange wire) and the other is not labeled but is behind the black cap in the top left corner. Behind the cap is a black and red line.

I am replacing the existing solar panels / inverter with a Victron Multiplus II and if by chance one (both) of these lines go to the breaker panel in the kitchen, i might be able to use one of them to pull my 6/3 wire from the Victron inverter to the breaker panel without having to create a new run (drill, etc...).

If anyone knows where these go it would be appreciated.

[WondersAwait]

A similar loop of orange wire was in my 303 and it was the inverter prep kit. They ran from the kitchen AC breaker panel to the front bay and then looped back to the panel. The breaker panel is split into 2 in the inside and this loop of wire connects the 2. The idea is that if someone were to use this for an inverter installation then they would have half their AC breakers running on the inverter and half only available via shore power. For my installation I tore the prep wires out and connected the 2 panel bars together, then wired the entire RV to run on the inverter because I preferred that setup.

I'm not sure why yours is labeled as solar. I would guess it's the same inverter prep as my rig had.

As far as using that orange wire as a pull cord for 6/3, you could certainly try but it's probably going to be very difficult and if I remember correctly they didn't route super well. I found it easier to just make my own runs from the AC panel to the front bay.

[TucsonJim]

As you have alluded to, a solar charging system and the inverter line should not be connected together under normal circumstances unless an owner is using an all-in-one solar controller/inverter.

I've asked Grand Design to provide clarification regarding the intent of the label. I'll provide their feedback when they respond.

Jim

[Country Campers]

The red and black wire behind the black cap is for the battery disconnect switch that is located on the other side of the wall in the pass thru, red key. Unfortunately this does no disconnect much. In my install I removed that switch and replaced it with a true battery disconnect, you do not have to do this as I would guess you will have one with your new set up. Below the black cap there is some spray foam which I believe the orange wire goes into to get to the PD panel inside the RV, this is where I ran my 6 wire to and from the PD panel for the inverter. Dropping the under belly will make this a pretty easy wire run. I brought the wire up thru a hole near the drain lines that are found behind the false wall to the rear of the pass thru storage.

Brian

[TucsonJim]

I heard back from GDRV this morning. The orange wires are for inverter prep.

Jim

[tmakie]

Appreciate the response from both Brian and you. Based on what you have shared, unfortunately that means I am running all new 6/0 SOOW for both the shore to input on the Victron and from the Victron to the breaker panel in the kitchen. Rather than open the under belly, i am probably going to go through the passthrough area above to both destinations.

At least I think i will be able to use the existing Furrion 10 AWG from the Furrion gland to the solar controller in the front bay and save the frustration of fishing a 8 AWG from the gland to the controller. $64 for the Furrion to MC4 adapter cables to connect my new 3 x 200 watt panels to the gland. They were out of stock for a while but now they have them back in stock.

So different than a house where solar is installed to save electrical dollars. RV solar is a big investment to allow off-grid camping periodically all at a PREMIUM!

[Country Campers]

Yes the price is pretty high but we have that being able to be self sufficient gives us more opportunities and also the abilities to stop whenever or wherever we want, plus cooking while traveling is a plus we have yet to explore.

You can use the 10 ga. wire from the roof gland as long as you keep track of what it can handle.

When doing my install I left as much of the factory wiring and stuff in place so I can revert back to that if we ever sell or trade in. I can remove all that I have installed and return it to almost factory fresh.

Brian

[COReflection]

Appreciate the response from both Brian and you. Based on what you have shared, unfortunately that means I am running all new 6/0 SOOW for both the shore to input on the Victron and from the Victron to the breaker panel in the kitchen. Rather than open the under belly, i am probably going to go through the passthrough area above to both destinations.

At least I think i will be able to use the existing Furrion 10 AWG from the Furrion gland to the solar controller in the front bay and save the frustration of fishing a 8 AWG from the gland to the controller. $64 for the Furrion to MC4 adapter cables to connect my new 3 x 200 watt panels to the gland. They were out of stock for a while but now they have them back in stock.

So different than a house where solar is installed to save electrical dollars. RV solar is a big investment to allow off-grid camping periodically all at a PREMIUM!

I'm doing a lower scale electrical build-out for my unit and our camping. We are utilizing the "inverter-prep" from the factory since I only need to power our regular outlets in the camper.....not the fireplace or the A/C units. You will see in the pics that I have used the orange wires and ran them into an ATS that powers our inverter. For now, I am continuing to use the Furrior solar charger but I may add more panels and upgrade that before summer camping season. I spec'd out the Victron system and have seen my friends. They are super amazing and cool but I could not justify the expense for our weekend camping in the summer vs all the other car hobbies that I have so I went this route instead. I'm quite pleased so far and anxious to try things out in the summer. My biggest goal was more aH of LiPO4 batteries for the 12v fridge and using our TV when desired to watch movies without the generator. With nearly 600 aH now of batteries...that shouldn't be a problem for our 3-4 boondocking day excursions. Good luck with your build.

[Robert "Bob" Beaubouef]

OMG, this is what I'm looking for. While I'm not an electrician I'm sure I can wire this up.COReflection... would you have a parts list and diagram of your setup? Or even a link?

[howson]

OMG, this is what I'm looking for. While I'm not an electrician I'm sure I can wire this up.COReflection... would you have a parts list and diagram of your setup? Or even a link?

While waiting for COReflection 's reply, please check out the Welcome Letter so you get the most from your time here on the forum. (Welcome to the forum!)

Howard

[COReflection]

OMG, this is what I'm looking for. While I'm not an electrician I'm sure I can wire this up.COReflection... would you have a parts list and diagram of your setup? Or even a link?

Bob----sorry for the delayed response. Here is what I posted on my recent upgrade path. I have since finished up everything and covered my bus bars and other hot or sensitive terminals from my pictures.

I will outline my path below. I’m not here to win anyone over on the route I took as I know the Victron equipment is top of the line and loved by all. For me I couldn’t justify the higher cost being a weekend warrior camper and not a full timer.

I ended up powering all my standard and GFCI outlets in the camper with one 2000w inverter. The inverter and shore power are on an Automatic Transfer Switch (ATS) so that it will automatically switch over when I am on shore power (Also connected to the generator) or am on my battery bank.

I removed my standard converter/charger and upgraded to a 120A LiP04 capable charger for my 568aH battery bank. I can charge or top them off quickly with this charger. I also moved the charger/converter to my front compartment where it’s more efficient and closer to my battery bank. I remoted a plug up to that compartment which is still feed by the converter circuit in my 120v distribution panel. It’s even equipped with an Off/On switch so that I have more control when running on generator or shore power.

I purchased a slightly used Go Wise 2000w inverter from CL and tested it pretty exhaustively before I installed it. Seems to work great and should easily power my TV, DVD, and sound system when we boondock. I installed the remote switch for this inverter in my switch power cabinet inside the camper. It’s nice to be able to turn it off and on from inside.

Also installed a Renogy 500A shunt monitor with remote display which helps me track and manage all the loads and current coming in/out of my batteries. The display for that is also located in the same power cabinet with the rest of my switches and tank level monitors.


Bottom line---I think I have like $600 in all my equipment excluding the batteries and EMS and I am good to go. I already have an OEM instance of solar and may expand that later but I am happy with my investment for now and it hits the mark. We can use any of the outlets in the camper and the microwave from the inverter if desired. I cannot run the fireplace nor either of the AC units but that was not my goal or desire!

Equipment:
• Go Wise 2000 w inverter with remote switch
• Powermax 120A Charger
• Renogy 500A shunt monitor with remote display
• Powermax 30A Auto Transfer Switch (ATS)
• Misc wire and connectors
• Battery disconnect switch for the Inverter
• 300A fuse for the Inverter feed
• Progressive Dynamics 50A EMS/Surge Protector with remote screen (This was not included in the costing numbers listed above)
• Big Battery OWL and OWL Plus LiP04 batteries