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  • #76
    bertschb

    So the takeaway from the previous post:

    If <50A connection, best to use the Keep Batteries Charged mode with the correct Input Current Limit so PowerControl and PowerAssist are available.

    With a 50A connection, with the Minimum State of Charge set to a level you're comfortable with use Optimized (Without BatteryLife) to get the most leverage (and use the least Shore power) over a 24 hour period.
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    • #77
      Originally posted by howson View Post

      Yes--AC-coupled PV - feed in excess is turned on.
      If I turn on “DC-coupled PV I start feeding almost 10 times as many watts into the grid”, does anyone know the implications of that setting? I haven’t played with it a lot yet. Thanks SO MUCH for all the info in this post. I never would have gotten it all working without it.

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      • #78
        Originally posted by MarlonBeltz View Post
        If I turn on “DC-coupled PV I start feeding almost 10 times as many watts into the grid”, does anyone know the implications of that setting?
        The answer I posted to bertschb in #72 is very brief--I literally just responded to his question. A better, more thorough response would be, "Yes, mine was originally set so the AC-coupled PV setting was on, but since I don't have an AC-coupled PV it doesn't really make any difference that I can detect. I now have it off."

        By turning on the DC-coupled PV setting the DC output of your controller (which I assume is similar to my Victron) that exceeds the requirements of the batteries and trailer is fed to the inverter which then could potentially back feed the inverted power (120vAC) into the electrical system.

        I am not an expert on the topic of back feeding the electrical grid--so I am not sure what is required (by the power company) or by code to safely allow solar-generated power into the grid. A call to your servicing electric company (or a consult with a qualified electrician in your area) is advised.

        Remember--I'm not an electrician or any type of "expert". I've just spent a lot of time tinkering with my setup. However, you DO NOT want to inadvertently back feed an electrical line that ends up hurting someone (or something) due to it not being connected to the grid correctly.

        If you find out more on this topic, please share the info.

        Howard
        Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

        2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

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        • #79
          Originally posted by MarlonBeltz View Post

          If I turn on “DC-coupled PV I start feeding almost 10 times as many watts into the grid”, does anyone know the implications of that setting? I haven’t played with it a lot yet. Thanks SO MUCH for all the info in this post. I never would have gotten it all working without it.
          We have solar at home. Before feeding into the grid you need to contact your power company and get the proper meter installed so you get credit for your input. Also, for safety's sake they need to label and know you're feeding into the grid. There should also be a cut-off switch to isolate you from the grid.

          John
          John & Jurie

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