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Adding a panel to the factory system

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  • #16
    Howard,
    Thanks for the good info. Definitely new to the solar stuff.
    What I was thinking is since, A x V = W and since the controllers max (input) Vdc is 45 and max Amps is 30. 45v x 30a = 1350w. So I thought 3 panels in parallel would work. I knew is couldn’t wire them in series as I would exceed to controllers max Vdc input.There is obviously more to this solar than I’m aware of.
    attached is the controllers spec sheet from the Jaboni website.

    Thanks again for the help.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by Usspikes View Post
      What I was thinking is since, A x V = W and since the controllers max (input) Vdc is 45 and max Amps is 30. 45v x 30a = 1350w.
      The limiting factor, and the key to understanding the Jaboni's limitation, is focusing on the 550W spec on the input (from the solar panels) side of the controller. The voltage from the panels can range from 15 to 45 but driving more than 550W will overwhelm the controller.

      Garret Towne (engineer at AMSolar) has an informative video on how to select a solar controller. I think all the math and numbers will make a lot more sense if you take a few minutes to watch his presentation.


      Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

      Howard, 2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

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      • #18
        Very informative video, Thanks Howard

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Huntindog View Post
          I have been thinking this over.
          If I got two of the Jaboni 100 watt panels and wired them in series to make one 200 watt panel,(doubling the voltage to 43.2) and then paralled that with my 300 watt panel, (which puts out 39.85) then I would have 500 watts... and the entire array would output at least 39.85 volts, maybe a little more. According to my figuresThat setup would fall under the 30 amp controllers ratings, of 45 volts and 550 watts and should allow the full 30 amps to be available for the batteries?

          Seems like an easy effective way to go.

          What do you guys think?
          I have been looking around, and 100 watt panels with similar specs can be had for around 100.00. That is for a bare panel though.
          And I have no idea what it takes to make a quality panel.

          Also, just what will I need to complete this project?

          Comment


          • #20
            Originally posted by Huntindog View Post

            I have been looking around, and 100 watt panels with similar specs can be had for around 100.00. That is for a bare panel though.
            And I have no idea what it takes to make a quality panel.

            Also, just what will I need to complete this project?
            Can you define "bare"? Does that mean without bypass diodes or MC4 connectors?

            I have Renogy's 100 watt Eclipse panels that have all of the above.

            What you may not have is a way to join the 300W original panel with the "one" 200W (actually two wired in series). For that you need a junction box. I used AMSolar's, but there are many other alternatives that are less expensive. TucsonJim can probably advise more on that subject.

            Click image for larger version

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            If you'll take a few minutes to read through my solar install thread I think the above will make more sense. https://gdrvowners.com/forum/solar/1...n-2019-315rlts

            Howard
            Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

            Howard, 2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

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            • #21
              I noticed in the layout drawings there was an area at the front marked 3' and you placed all your panels back from there. I am guessing you are not mounting in that area for a reason? Does GD suggest avoiding an area for the panel install? I am picking up my 2021 22MLE in about a week and hope to get the solar installed before in gets cold.
              Dan
              Ponderosa Park, CO
              2021 Imagine XLS 22MLE (in Mid September 2021)
              2018 Nissan Titan Crew

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              • #22
                Originally posted by SailorDan View Post
                I noticed in the layout drawings there was an area at the front marked 3' and you placed all your panels back from there. I am guessing you are not mounting in that area for a reason? Does GD suggest avoiding an area for the panel install? I am picking up my 2021 22MLE in about a week and hope to get the solar installed before in gets cold.
                Welcome to the forum--whom are you addressing? Best to use the "Quote" function when responding to a post (like I just did) so the individual being addressed gets a notification (like you just did). Another option is to use the "tag" function, which is the @ symbol followed by their forum name, like this: SailorDan
                Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

                Howard, 2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

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                • #23
                  howson


                  Originally posted by howson View Post


                  The picture below shows what I could have done with my 315RLTS with Jaboni 300W panels (the far right config has the Jaboni), but their cost per watt was excessive and their large size limited me to 900 watts. That's why I went with 100W Renogy panels (see picture at the bottom of post).

                  Click image for larger version

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                  As a comparison, below is the configuration I chose (actual configuration on the roof is slightly different but this is close enough). The MPPT controller is a SmarSolar 150|100 TR.

                  Click image for larger version

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                  I noticed in the layout drawings there was an area at the front marked 3' and you placed all your panels back from there. I am guessing you are not mounting in that area for a reason? Does GD suggest avoiding an area for the panel install? I am picking up my 2021 22MLE in about a week and hope to get the solar installed before in gets cold.

                  ​​​​​​​Thanks for the tip on the post!! Is this right?
                  Dan
                  Ponderosa Park, CO
                  2021 Imagine XLS 22MLE (in Mid September 2021)
                  2018 Nissan Titan Crew

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Originally posted by SailorDan View Post
                    I noticed in the layout drawings there was an area at the front marked 3' and you placed all your panels back from there. I am guessing you are not mounting in that area for a reason? Does GD suggest avoiding an area for the panel install? I am picking up my 2021 22MLE in about a week and hope to get the solar installed before in gets cold.

                    ​​​​​​​Thanks for the tip on the post!! Is this right?
                    Yes, the way you used the quote feature is normally the best way to keep a conversation in context.

                    The 3' mark is just showing that between the front cap and the first of the "lines" (this is some kind of growth that is quite normal on our roofs) the distance is 3'. Given the vent on the left side and where I wanted to mount the combiner box there was no room for any panels in the area in front of the air conditioner for my setup.

                    The space between lines on the rest of the roof is 4'.

                    Where I put the panels was based on being able to service the air conditioners, a walking path from front to rear (note where the ladder come up on the roof), minimize the impact of shade on solar production, a way to route wiring, maximize the solar on the roof, and get the most solar per $.
                    Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

                    Howard, 2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      I'm trying to figure all this out so bear with me....

                      If I add another 300W panel and that would give me a total of 600W possible. However, it is almost unheard of to get full W out of the panels so that is why we use the multiplier of 90% which comes to 540W. So as I see it the W isn't the issue.

                      Can we turn this into a 24V system and eliminate any issues with having a 30A charge controller and small wires in the solar prep? Then just spend a few $ on a 24V to 12 V convertor?

                      I believe this will create issues with charging from my vehicle. Is there anything else that I'm missing?

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Originally posted by JBRV2020 View Post
                        I'm trying to figure all this out so bear with me....

                        If I add another 300W panel and that would give me a total of 600W possible. However, it is almost unheard of to get full W out of the panels so that is why we use the multiplier of 90% which comes to 540W. So as I see it the W isn't the issue.

                        Can we turn this into a 24V system and eliminate any issues with having a 30A charge controller and small wires in the solar prep? Then just spend a few $ on a 24V to 12 V convertor?

                        I believe this will create issues with charging from my vehicle. Is there anything else that I'm missing?
                        If I understand you right you’re talking about writing the panels in series instead of parallel. In that case you can get by with smaller wire, but normally rather than a converter you’d have a charge controller that does that for you. For instance my Victron charge controller will take up to 150 volts, and output whatever I set it for. So I’ve got six panels wired in three parallel groups of two series panels each. That means for my panels I have max of 36 bolts coming into the charge controller and I have it set to put out 12v at the higher current.

                        Where 24v usually comes into play is feeding the inverter. A 24v inverter allows you to run smaller wire to the inverter from the batteries.
                        Neil Citro
                        2018 Reflection 28bh
                        2019 F350 6.7L Long Bed Crew Cab

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Originally posted by JBRV2020 View Post
                          I'm trying to figure all this out so bear with me....

                          If I add another 300W panel and that would give me a total of 600W possible. However, it is almost unheard of to get full W out of the panels so that is why we use the multiplier of 90% which comes to 540W. So as I see it the W isn't the issue.

                          Can we turn this into a 24V system and eliminate any issues with having a 30A charge controller and small wires in the solar prep? Then just spend a few $ on a 24V to 12 V convertor?

                          I believe this will create issues with charging from my vehicle. Is there anything else that I'm missing?
                          I think you're confusing the output of the PANELS with the output of the SOLAR CHARGER. There is one voltage (from panels to charger) and then the another from the charger to battery. The latter is ~12v (the voltage of your batteries).

                          A Jaboni 300W panel has a maximum output of ~32 volts. Two in series could be up to 64v. The SOLAR CHARGER's input must be rated to handle that voltage level. The maximum the 30A Jaboni Solar Controller can handl a maximum of 45vDC. (This is all on their spec sheets.)

                          https://jabonipowerproducts.com/prod...t-solar-panel/

                          https://jabonipowerproducts.com/prod...ge-controller/

                          Bottom line: you can't add a second panel without replacing (or adding a second) charge controller to the factory system.

                          Howard
                          Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

                          Howard, 2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

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                          • #28
                            Thanks Howard!

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