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SmartSolar MPPT physical installation - requires non flammable mounting surface?

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  • SmartSolar MPPT physical installation - requires non flammable mounting surface?

    Was reading the owners manual/instructions for the instillation of my MPPT 100/20 solar charger. Instructions say do not install on a flammable surface and have roughly 3/8" clearance around the unit (seems tight). Now the 100/30 instructions do not say any of that that. Now both instructions do say mount with terminals pointing down, inferring they need to be on a vertical wall. How hot do these units get (particularly the 100/20 unit) when operating to not be mounted on plywood?

    I do have some scrap aluminum sheet that I could use to mount the 100/20 unit to and space it off the wall say 1/4 inch.

    And yes I do know my first mistake was to read the instructions. I was thinking of tying both positive and negative leads to the Lynx power in bar , but do I need to take the negative leads to the load side of the shunt? Got thinking that if I go positive and negative to the Lynx power in bar the shunt will not see the solar charger input? I have a second buss bar to tie in all the negative trailer wiring too. Currently a bundle of wire nuts tied together then to ground. That bar would be tied to the load side of the shunt, so that is where I think I need to tie in the negative leads from the solar controllers too. The negative buss bar will be grounded to the trailer frame too.

    An while I have your attention - The Lynx power in bar lugs are 8mm (same as Lynx distribution bar). That's a hair larger than 5/16" if I calculated correctly. Will a 5/16" lug/ring terminal fit? Do I need to got to 3/8" lug/ring terminal? Or do I just ream out the 5/16 ones to fit?

    Thanks everyone
    Keith

    BTW - on your installs do any of you remember the mounting screw sizes you used for the switches, solar controllers fuse block ect? It appears its either #10 or #14 (1/4") based on hole diameters. I want to be prepared and not need to make a unplanned trip to the hardware store.

    Thanks again
    2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th wheel. Reese R20 Titan hitch, Steadyfast system, 2004 F350 King Ranch dually

  • #2
    Blue Sea switches are typically 3/8". Battleborn Batteries are 5/16". I believe the Victron shunt I used was 3/8". The Victron Inverter (3K) I think was 516". The smaller waterproof breakers I used were 1/4". The ANL Fuse holder was 5/16" or 3/8". Since I made my own cables I purchased a decent number of 3/8" terminal lugs and 516" lugs. Used all of the 5/16" ones but had some 3/8" left over. Camper terminals were 1/4" on the bus bar. I purchased 5/16" bus bars and will soon be doubling the bus bars (ie: adding a second bar on the existing screws to increase the amperage capacity from 250amps to something a little higher than 250amps.)

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by openrangeowners View Post
      Blue Sea switches are typically 3/8". Battleborn Batteries are 5/16". I believe the Victron shunt I used was 3/8". The Victron Inverter (3K) I think was 516". The smaller waterproof breakers I used were 1/4". The ANL Fuse holder was 5/16" or 3/8". Since I made my own cables I purchased a decent number of 3/8" terminal lugs and 516" lugs. Used all of the 5/16" ones but had some 3/8" left over. Camper terminals were 1/4" on the bus bar. I purchased 5/16" bus bars and will soon be doubling the bus bars (ie: adding a second bar on the existing screws to increase the amperage capacity from 250amps to something a little higher than 250amps.)
      Thanks. That's matching up with my highly scientific SWAG screw matching. (I pick a screw and guess if it will fit) Now to make a list. I did find out my big 600A blues sea switches are 1/2" lugs and take 1/4" mounting screws.

      I just got my final order from https://www.continuousresources.com . They carried the 8 awg PV wire and 8 awg MP4 connectors. Great pricing on other stuff too. Matt has also provided excellent customer service and advice. Next up the crimping tool. lugs and battery cable (March) and A few items on Amazon (April) where they are actually cheaper. Then a hardware check for screw size and length. I am lucky I have one that carry's just abut everything as far as screw types and sizes. I should be able to work on the unit mid to late April weather permitting.

      The story continues
      Keith
      2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th wheel. Reese R20 Titan hitch, Steadyfast system, 2004 F350 King Ranch dually

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Yoda View Post
        Was reading the owners manual/instructions...
        You're right about what the manual states about a "flammable surface". I mounted my 150-100 Controller to thick plywood which was then covered with paneling. I hadn't even suspected any issues, so hadn't looked. After reading your post I had to go out and do an inspection.

        My controller has ran nearly 24/7 since the install over a year ago, in all conditions from sweltering hot days on the road to close to freezing. I cannot see any discoloration or any other indication of thermal distress around the controller.

        As a reminder, my system is 1200 watts (six 100W "pairs" wired in parallel) using 2 ga wires from the junction box to the controller and then from the controller to the battery junction. (All of this is documented on my master diagram as you're well aware.)

        This is applicable to my install...but hopefully provides some perspective.


        Click image for larger version  Name:	Results.JPG Views:	0 Size:	183.3 KB ID:	41790
        Forum moderators are not GD employees--we are volunteers and owners presumably just like yourself. Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, we have nothing to gain should you choose to purchase a product or engage a service we discuss on this forum.

        Howard, 2017 Ford F-350 DRW, '19 315RLTSPlus

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Yoda;n41771[SIZE=14px
          ]Was reading the owners manual/instructions for the instillation of my MPPT 100/20 solar charger. [/SIZE]Instructions say do not install on a flammable surface and have roughly 3/8" clearance around the unit (seems tight). Now the 100/30 instructions do not say any of that that. Now both instructions do say mount with terminals pointing down, inferring they need to be on a vertical wall. How hot do these units get (particularly the 100/20 unit) when operating to not be mounted on plywood?

          I do have some scrap aluminum sheet that I could use to mount the 100/20 unit to and space it off the wall say 1/4 inch.

          And yes I do know my first mistake was to read the instructions. I was thinking of tying both positive and negative leads to the Lynx power in bar , but do I need to take the negative leads to the load side of the shunt? Got thinking that if I go positive and negative to the Lynx power in bar the shunt will not see the solar charger input? I have a second buss bar to tie in all the negative trailer wiring too. Currently a bundle of wire nuts tied together then to ground. That bar would be tied to the load side of the shunt, so that is where I think I need to tie in the negative leads from the solar controllers too. The negative buss bar will be grounded to the trailer frame too.

          An while I have your attention - The Lynx power in bar lugs are 8mm (same as Lynx distribution bar). That's a hair larger than 5/16" if I calculated correctly. Will a 5/16" lug/ring terminal fit? Do I need to got to 3/8" lug/ring terminal? Or do I just ream out the 5/16 ones to fit?

          Thanks everyone
          Keith

          BTW - on your installs do any of you remember the mounting screw sizes you used for the switches, solar controllers fuse block ect? It appears its either #10 or #14 (1/4") based on hole diameters. I want to be prepared and not need to make a unplanned trip to the hardware store.

          Thanks again
          Your first mistake Kelly hates it when I do that....
          Jerry and Kelly Powell, with Halo, Nash, Reid, and the baby kitty Cleo.
          Pilot (Zebulon), NC
          2020 Solitude 390RK-R

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by howson View Post

            You're right about what the manual states about a "flammable surface". I mounted my 150-100 Controller to thick plywood which was then covered with paneling. I hadn't even suspected any issues, so hadn't looked. After reading your post I had to go out and do an inspection.

            My controller has ran nearly 24/7 since the install over a year ago, in all conditions from sweltering hot days on the road to close to freezing. I cannot see any discoloration or any other indication of thermal distress around the controller.

            As a reminder, my system is 1200 watts (six 100W "pairs" wired in parallel) using 2 ga wires from the junction box to the controller and then from the controller to the battery junction. (All of this is documented on my master diagram as you're well aware.)

            This is applicable to my install...but hopefully provides some perspective.


            Click image for larger version Name:	Results.JPG Views:	0 Size:	183.3 KB ID:	41790
            Thanks Howard
            ThePowells
            Jerry My wife is the opposite - she will say - did you read the instructions?????? Especially if I have left over parts that I am sure are not needed.
            2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th wheel. Reese R20 Titan hitch, Steadyfast system, 2004 F350 King Ranch dually

            Comment


            • #7
              Yep, but it always ends up costing more $$$. She is beginning to understand that.
              Jerry and Kelly Powell, with Halo, Nash, Reid, and the baby kitty Cleo.
              Pilot (Zebulon), NC
              2020 Solitude 390RK-R

              Comment


              • #8
                Yoda I mounted mine on plywood as well. I asked about the nonflammable surface thing somewhere (I think the Multiplus says the same thing), and while I can't find it in writing anywhere I remember the answer I got was it couldn't be on plastic or carpet or anything, wood was fine (I know wood is flammable, don't ask me lol). You could mount it on plywood with some thick metal spacers behind it if you were really worried. Like unistrut washers or even a 1/2" galvanized pipe coupling or something to give it an airgap behind it.
                Neil Citro
                2018 Reflection 28bh
                2019 F350 6.7L Long Bed Crew Cab

                Comment


                • #9
                  I put my 100/50 on plywood but used (roughly) 1/4" spacers on the screws to give it a little more of an air gap from the plywood.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    My inverter was very specific about mounting to a "non flammable" surface. I mounted it to a piece of 1/4" cement board which was mounted to 1/4" plywood.

                    Jim
                    The moderators for this site are not GDRV employees, but we do own GDRV products.

                    Jim and Ginnie
                    2017 Reflection 297RSTS

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Would something like this be an option?
                      https://www.grainger.com/product/GRA...Isolator-2NPE4

                      This can give you some airspace and insulate the part from vibration, but I don't have the faintest clue as to the weight or your mounting orientation.
                      Jerry and Kelly Powell, with Halo, Nash, Reid, and the baby kitty Cleo.
                      Pilot (Zebulon), NC
                      2020 Solitude 390RK-R

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I have some scrap aluminum plate that I will use and space it off 1/4 inch.
                        2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th wheel. Reese R20 Titan hitch, Steadyfast system, 2004 F350 King Ranch dually

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Keith

                          If this item makes a lot of heat the Aluminum will absorb it quickly and dissipate it to what ever it is touching.

                          Brian
                          Brian & Michelle
                          2018 Reflection 29RS Oct.17 build date, EMS-HW50C , Lippert Remote
                          2015 Chevy 3500HD CC LB Duramax , Reese Elite 18K

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Country Campers View Post
                            Keith

                            If this item makes a lot of heat the Aluminum will absorb it quickly and dissipate it to what ever it is touching.

                            Brian
                            That's what I don't know (how much heat). But from answers others are not having issues. From reading both manuals only the 100/20 has specific language on the non-flammable surface. The 100/30 just says provide good ventilation. I have the scrap aluminum plate (1/8"), so its not an issue to fab up a coupe of plates. My plan is to measure/cut and install the backer plywood, note any clearance issues (existing bus bar under the cover and my shelving I installed), then remove and mount the units outside. Once parts are installed, put it back secure it and then do the wiring that could not be done with it removed. I made up a scale plan that I am working from. I also emailed Victron on operating temperatures but have not heard back. My dealer said not to worry about it as he has not seen one get too hot to touch yet.

                            Non the less you are correct the aluminum will help the cooling, and I plan to space the plate off the plywood for good measure.

                            Thanks for your thoughts
                            2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th wheel. Reese R20 Titan hitch, Steadyfast system, 2004 F350 King Ranch dually

                            Comment

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