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Please double check my wiring sizes for Solar/inverter install

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  • Please double check my wiring sizes for Solar/inverter install

    Wiring 3.pdf

    Click image for larger version

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ID:	42525

    I wish I could get the PDF picture to appear.
    Edit: Did it for you, Keith! -Howard

    Anyway 10/3 or 8/3 means 3 conductor SO cable.
    Inverter will be a 3000 watt Go Power Instructions require 4/0 positive and negative feed.
    Transfer switch is capable of turning off the new Converter when the inverter is in use.
    4 -6 Volt Deka GC45 battery's, Series connections in 2/0 then 4/0 to power in bar
    2/0 and 4/0 cabling will be welding cable
    I am adding in the green ground bar to clean up all the ground connections.
    Trailer power bar is untouched. New power feed from power in bar is 2/0


    Jim indicated I only need to use the 10 AWG between inverter and power panel for the inverters 25A output but 8 awg can also be used if I want. I found terminals in the 8 awg size so I can go either way, Thoughts on choice are welcome.

    Should I add switches between the MPPT controllers and where they tie into the power in bar. The circuit breakers could do the same, but that usage (as a switch) may not be good for them They are Blue Sea brand with the yellow lever. I would turn them off once a year. However for winter storage I probably need the switches to eliminate the parasitic draw from the MPPT controlers. Is the correct?


    Thanks for the help
    Keith

    PS first time trying to create a drawing. Used power point then PDF editor. I know I am bad at it compared to others - sorry
    Last edited by howson; 02-10-2021, 08:55 PM.
    2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th wheel. Reese R20 Titan hitch, Steadyfast system, 2004 F350 King Ranch dually

  • #2
    Originally posted by Yoda View Post
    [ATTACH]n42501[/ATTACH]

    I wish I could get the PDF picture to appear.

    Anyway 10/3 or 8/3 means 3 conductor SO cable.
    Inverter will be a 3000 watt Go Power Instructions require 4/0 positive and negative feed.
    Transfer switch is capable of turning off the new Converter when the inverter is in use.
    4 -6 Volt Deka GC45 battery's, Series connections in 2/0 then 4/0 to power in bar
    2/0 and 4/0 cabling will be welding cable
    I am adding in the green ground bar to clean up all the ground connections.
    Trailer power bar is untouched. New power feed from power in bar is 2/0


    Jim indicated I only need to use the 10 AWG between inverter and power panel for the inverters 25A output but 8 awg can also be used if I want. I found terminals in the 8 awg size so I can go either way, Thoughts on choice are welcome.

    Should I add switches between the MPPT controllers and where they tie into the power in bar. The circuit breakers could do the same, but that usage (as a switch) may not be good for them They are Blue Sea brand with the yellow lever. I would turn them off once a year. However for winter storage I probably need the switches to eliminate the parasitic draw from the MPPT controlers. Is the correct?


    Thanks for the help
    Keith

    PS first time trying to create a drawing. Used power point then PDF editor. I know I am bad at it compared to others - sorry
    Keith - Here is the picture:
    Click image for larger version

Name:	Keith Wiring.JPG
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ID:	42506
    Attached Files
    The moderators for this site are not GDRV employees, but we do own GDRV products.

    Jim and Ginnie
    2017 Reflection 297RSTS

    Comment


    • #3
      Just taking a quick glance, I see an issue with your shunt placement. You aren't picking up the ground to the inverter. All grounds need to feed into the shunt first, then they can be distributed to the rest of the trailer.

      And I can't quite figure out how you're running the converter with the transfer switch. Is the intent to only have the converter power up when on shore power? If so, you could split out a dedicated junction box from shore power with it's own breaker just for the shore power feed.

      Next, I see both +12V from the battery and ground from the battery feeding into the "Power in Bar". I would assume you have both a +12V bar and a ground bar (separate from each other".


      Jim
      The moderators for this site are not GDRV employees, but we do own GDRV products.

      Jim and Ginnie
      2017 Reflection 297RSTS

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by TucsonJim View Post
        Just taking a quick glance, I see an issue with your shunt placement. You aren't picking up the ground to the inverter. All grounds need to feed into the shunt first, then they can be distributed to the rest of the trailer.

        And I can't quite figure out how you're running the converter with the transfer switch. Is the intent to only have the converter power up when on shore power? If so, you could split out a dedicated junction box from shore power with it's own breaker just for the shore power feed.

        Next, I see both +12V from the battery and ground from the battery feeding into the "Power in Bar". I would assume you have both a +12V bar and a ground bar (separate from each other".


        Jim
        Thanks Jim
        First how did you get the PDF to show up?

        So the Negative to the inverter needs to come from the new (green) ground buss bar and bypass the Lynx power in.

        With the transfer switch I have (Go Power) https://gpelectric.com/products/30-amp-transfer-switch/ in normal operation shore power passes through to the panel and the converter. If the inverter is turned on, the transfer switch cuts power to the converter and ties the inverter into the power panel. I think it would cut shore power too. Its all built into the transfer switch See diagram 1 and 2.5.2 of this document https://s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/c...N_GP-TS-30.pdf

        Note : I see I do need a ground from the transfer switch to the ground buss bar. I also need a ground wire from the inverter too.

        Yes - the Victron Lynx power has both the positive and negative bus bars contained in the one housing so both positive and negative leads from the battery go to their respective bars in this unit. I got this unit as it is compact and protects everything.
        2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th wheel. Reese R20 Titan hitch, Steadyfast system, 2004 F350 King Ranch dually

        Comment


        • #5
          Revised plan
          Light green wires from inverter and transfer switch are ground wires. I am wondering if I should ground the transfer switch to the distributional panel ground. It will be much closer.
          Wiring 3a.pdf
          2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th wheel. Reese R20 Titan hitch, Steadyfast system, 2004 F350 King Ranch dually

          Comment


          • #6
            i would make all the ? 8/3 and also the incoming that you didn't mark. you said you had lugs to fit. go big.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Yoda View Post
              Revised plan
              Light green wires from inverter and transfer switch are ground wires. I am wondering if I should ground the transfer switch to the distributional panel ground. It will be much closer.
              [ATTACH]n42518[/ATTACH]
              You are still showing a negative going from the MPPT to the power in bar that bypasses the shunt. I would put the shunt directly off the batteries, before your power in bar. That would ensure you do not miss something and have it miss going through the shunt.

              As far as size, those all look fine, but the feed for the trailers power bar seems large. I think my factory wiring was 8AWG maybe 6AWG feeding those loads. 2/0 seems excessive to me unless you are adding something big over there.
              Neil Citro
              2018 Reflection 28bh
              2019 F350 6.7L Long Bed Crew Cab

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by ncitro View Post

                You are still showing a negative going from the MPPT to the power in bar that bypasses the shunt. I would put the shunt directly off the batteries, before your power in bar. That would ensure you do not miss something and have it miss going through the shunt.

                As far as size, those all look fine, but the feed for the trailers power bar seems large. I think my factory wiring was 8AWG maybe 6AWG feeding those loads. 2/0 seems excessive to me unless you are adding something big over there.
                Thanks Neil
                I will make the negative connection correction. I just use the 2/0 as I thought I would have extra. Good to know I can downsize. I think the existing connection is 6awg, but will double check.

                Folks - this is fantastic help in getting things right the first time - Thanks
                2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th wheel. Reese R20 Titan hitch, Steadyfast system, 2004 F350 King Ranch dually

                Comment


                • #9
                  ncitro

                  Neil
                  This is what the power in bar looks like
                  As you can see it is just two bus bars. The negative tie in below and positive up top. I was going to attache the shunt of to the right (negative) and the MPPT would tie in top right (Positive). This is right next to the battery cables. Am I still OK. If I tie to the battery's I would need to chose one bank or the other

                  I am attaching another correct version on the wiring runs. The SO cable is now gray and I am grounding the transfer switch to the distribution panel.
                  Wiring V4.0.pdf

                  Click image for larger version

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                  Last edited by howson; 02-11-2021, 04:24 PM. Reason: Added picture for Keith. -Howard
                  2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th wheel. Reese R20 Titan hitch, Steadyfast system, 2004 F350 King Ranch dually

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Okay so yeah in that case, as long and you leave that power bar and go into the shunt you should be okay. Just connect all your grounds to the terminal strip after the shunt and you should be fine.

                    Noted on the 2/0 going to the factory wiring. That is fine, but if you want to save some money and hassle just go with the factory size. Same is true for the run from the ground terminal strip to the frame. A 6AWG should be fine there as well.

                    Obviously you are not showing your fuses or breakers there, keep those in mind when planning the wire ring terminals and whatnot you will need. They add up quick lol.
                    Neil Citro
                    2018 Reflection 28bh
                    2019 F350 6.7L Long Bed Crew Cab

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by ncitro View Post
                      Okay so yeah in that case, as long and you leave that power bar and go into the shunt you should be okay. Just connect all your grounds to the terminal strip after the shunt and you should be fine.

                      Noted on the 2/0 going to the factory wiring. That is fine, but if you want to save some money and hassle just go with the factory size. Same is true for the run from the ground terminal strip to the frame. A 6AWG should be fine there as well.

                      Obviously you are not showing your fuses or breakers there, keep those in mind when planning the wire ring terminals and whatnot you will need. They add up quick lol.
                      The only fuse I am not showing (and should) is the 400A inline to the inverter. The other possibility/question is do I need switches on the positive lines out of the MPPT controllers? Otherwise everything is shown. AM I Missing Something? I am leaving the stock power bar with its circuit breakers alone and I believe there is a circuit breaker where the 2/0 ties in.

                      Thanks Keith
                      2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th wheel. Reese R20 Titan hitch, Steadyfast system, 2004 F350 King Ranch dually

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I am probably overly conservative, but keep in mind the fuses protect the wiring. In my mind that means no wire should be unprotected by a fuse. If that is the case (and we assume you do not need a fuse between the batteries and the Power Bar) then I would put one between the Power Bar and the switch that feeds the factory wiring. I realize the "outputs" of the factory power bar are all fused, but the wiring between it and the power in bar is not, if it were to short to the frame that would be bad news with wire that big and Lithium batteries.

                        On the solar, I put switches between the panels and the MPPT and a circuit breaker between the MPPT and the batteries. You could use a breaker on both sides, but my understanding is it is overkill. I do not think you would need a switch in addition to a breaker, for how infrequently you will kill the MPPT the breaker will suffice. A switch is fine, but takes up space and costs money lol. I can count the number of times I have had to kill power to my MPPT on one hand, and they were all during setup lol.
                        Neil Citro
                        2018 Reflection 28bh
                        2019 F350 6.7L Long Bed Crew Cab

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Yoda This is a video that shows how the shut off, shunt and fuses connect in the lynx distributer. Go to about 16:22 to see the wiring. (I hope this link works ) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JMqtVBN26NQ&t=503s
                          John & Beata
                          Waterford, WI
                          2021 Reflection 337 RLS
                          2017 Ford F350 Lariat, Diesel, Crew Cab
                          Demco 21K Recon 5th Wheel Hitch

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by John L View Post
                            Yoda This is a video that shows how the shut off, shunt and fuses connect in the lynx distributer. Go to about 16:22 to see the wiring. (I hope this link works ) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JMqtVBN26NQ&t=503s
                            Thanks John
                            Video did work and was helpful. So you know the Lynx power in bar is not the same as the distribution bar in the video, They look similar but the power in bar dies not have the circuit board or provision for fuse holders
                            2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th wheel. Reese R20 Titan hitch, Steadyfast system, 2004 F350 King Ranch dually

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              OK after taking the comments here, reviewing what Howard said and revisiting the AM Solar diagrams I think I have this correct. The light green lines are chassis ground wires. I was going to use 10 awg.

                              I added switches on the 8 awg PV wire from the solar panels before the MPPT units and circuit breakers afterword. I connected these to the power in bar but one of the AM solar diagrams showed how I cold tie into my battery's directly if that would be better. Thoughts? My BMV712 needs to tie in there too I think.

                              The 400 Amp fuse is now shown. I have it after the switch. All negative wires will go to the ground bar. The fuses and shunt will be in enclosures

                              I decided to go with 10/3 SO 3 conductor cable (gray line). Although I do have some 10/2 marine cable and can just run a ground wire with it in a split loom. I noticed how stiff the 8 awg PV wire was. Will make wiring a bit easier for me and connectors are more available and affordable.

                              On edit - I did discover that the battery's tie to a circuit breaker that then ties to the trailer power bar, so I don't need another fuse on that line. Not sure of the size (I think 50A) but will check.

                              V6 wiring plan.pdf
                              Attached Files
                              2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th wheel. Reese R20 Titan hitch, Steadyfast system, 2004 F350 King Ranch dually

                              Comment

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