How do I actually connect my Victron devices? Plus bonus Lynx Distributor question.

[bertschb]

I'm finally getting to the point in my solar upgrade project where I'll be connecting my devices to my Cerbo. It seems Victron has 27 different cable interfaces to do this and as usual, I'm kinda confused. I read through some of my manuals and that just made it worse.

Here is my Victron equipment:
Cerbo GX
BMV-712
SmartSolar 150/100 TR VE.Can
Multiplus II 3000 12v <----brand new model s/b released by end of the month

Does anybody know what cables I need???? Ve.Can? Ve.Bus? Ve.Direct? USB? RJ11? RJ45?


On a separate note, I have a Victron Lynx Distributor. It has LED status lights on the front panel. I supplied power to the Lynx today but none of the lights lit up. After researching this it kind of sounded like the status lights don't work unless you connect a cable to a SmartShunt (which I don't have) for power. This just doesn't sound right. It seems like if power is passing through the Lynx Distributor that the status lights should work - at least the power light. Does anybody have experience with this?

[howson]

Lynx: https://gdrvowners.com/forum/solar/3...9127#post39127

On my master diagram each wire is documented (except for the VE cable that interconnects the BMV and Smartsolar to the CCGX). But the cable is shown. https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...lts-f-350-mods

Substitute the Cerbo in place of the CCGX in my diagram and you'll have a very similar setup.

[gbkims]

I'm finally getting to the point in my solar upgrade project where I'll be connecting my devices to my Cerbo. It seems Victron has 27 different cable interfaces to do this and as usual, I'm kinda confused. I read through some of my manuals and that just made it worse.

Here is my Victron equipment:
Cerbo GX
BMV-712
SmartSolar 150/100 TR VE.Can
Multiplus II 3000 12v <----brand new model s/b released by end of the month

Does anybody know what cables I need???? Ve.Can? Ve.Bus? Ve.Direct? USB? RJ11? RJ45?

Brian,

I think it's:

Cerbo GX to:
BMV-712 = Ve.Direct cable
150/100 Tr VE.Can = Ve.Direct cable or RJ45 ethernet cord for the Ve.Can + Can terminators at each end device (supplied with the Cerbo GX)
Multiplus II = Ve.Bus = RJ45 ethernet cord

Lynx Distributor LEDs - https://www.victronenergy.com/live/dc_distribution
"If you wish to use the fuse indication LEDs on the Lynx Distributor, it also requires a connection to a Lynx Shunt. The Lynx Shunt contains the necessary wide input (8 to 70VDC) power supply to output the required 5V (4,5V-5,5V) power requirement of the Lynx Distributor circuit board."

[bertschb]

howsongbkims

Thank you both for the replies. I didn't do as much searching yesterday as I should have to get my answers. I unexpectedly ended up getting my first root canal yesterday and wasn't thinking very clearly before or afterwards. I've looked at your wiring diagram many times before Howard but I never noticed that you also documented the cables.

What are your guys thoughts on swapping out my BMV-712 for the SmartShunt? With the Victron Connect app and Cerbo, I really have no use for the remote display on the BMV-712 and if the SmartShunt will activate the LED's on the Lynx, that would be nice.

[gbkims]

[
What are your guys thoughts on swapping out my BMV-712 for the SmartShunt? With the Victron Connect app and Cerbo, I really have no use for the remote display on the BMV-712 and if the SmartShunt will activate the LED's on the Lynx, that would be nice.

I don't think the SmartShut would do that for the LEDs. The Lynx Shunt is different with a complete circuit board inside it..

[bertschb]

I don't think the SmartShut would do that for the LEDs. The Lynx Shunt is different with a complete circuit board inside it..

The Lynx Distributor has a circuit board as well.

[bertschb]

I went ahead and ordered the SmartShunt. Even if the Lynx LED's aren't activated, I can at least get rid of the cabling and remote display of the BMV-712.

[howson]

I went ahead and ordered the SmartShunt. Even if the Lynx LED's aren't activated, I can at least get rid of the cabling and remote display of the BMV-712.

The interface between the Lynx Shunt and Lynx Distributor is unique, as I documented in the linked post. If you're keeping the Lynx Distributor without the Lynx Shunt, you have an expensive "dumb" bus bar (but the individual fuses are a plus).

There will be one less cable (the connection from the shunt to the BMV). I do not use the BMV's display, so I'd go with the SmartShunt if starting from scratch.

[bertschb]

I'm OK with the dumb busbar. It's allows for a slightly cleaner install and I like the fuse setup. If I hadn't already done the wiring, I would have opted for the Lynx Shunt. Oh well....

[ncitro]

Is use my Venus display inside the rig, so I didn’t have a need for the BMV inside. Since I had it, I installed it in the front bay, and it’s nice there for when I’m doing troubleshooting and whatnot, but if I was starting over I would probably just do the smart shunt.

[50ST8R]

Is use my Venus display inside the rig, so I didn’t have a need for the BMV inside. Since I had it, I installed it in the front bay, and it’s nice there for when I’m doing troubleshooting and whatnot, but if I was starting over I would probably just do the smart shunt.

i too installed the 712 next to the batteries and the Touch 50 inside above the Upper control panel. Gives me a good source for checking battery voltage when I am in the front bay. I think the smart shunt is just another ploy to make us bit more stuff😁

[Paul and judy]

I went ahead and ordered the SmartShunt. Even if the Lynx LED's aren't activated, I can at least get rid of the cabling and remote display of the BMV-712.

Hey Brian check out explorist Who has a hack to get the LED lights running without the smart shunt