Factory Solar System Reflection 337RLS

[tdeperte]

Count me in with this frustrating lack of info on the new solar system and 16 cu 12 volt refrigerator. We recently took delivery of a 2022 Reflection 337RLS. Love this trailer!! I have been searching for info on the solar setup to find answers to a few questions. All the manuals are severely lacking.

1. The Furrion MPPT 50 controller has an eco mode. What does that mean? There is nothing in the manual or online at Furrion.

2. I park in the garage hence no solar. After a short time the lights on the front of the MPPT went off. What does this mean?

3. The MPPT manual says to use sealed lead acid, AGM or lithium batteries. My dealer installed two flooded 12 marine deep cycle batteries. Is this setup ok?

4. My dealer wired the second battery parallel, positive to positive and negative to negative. The MPPT controller is wired to the first battery. Should it have been wired positive to the first battery and negative to the second battery?

5. It seems this can be a dangerous system to work on if the panels are producing a charge. How do you safely disconnect power from the panels with no inline disconnect switch?

6. How does this solar charging intermix with the charging from the onboard convertor when plugged in to shore power?

This is my first rv with solar so thanks for any responses.

[Country Campers]

Tony

I have moved your post to its own thread, this will be a pretty good discussion.

I wish I could help but I am pretty new to solar as well.

Brian

[howson]

The Furrion MPPT 50 controller has an eco mode. What does that mean? There is nothing in the manual or online at Furrion.

From Furrion's Net-Zero Charge Controller's manual (different from yours?) under About Your Produce: ECO mode, automatic recognition of day and night

2. I park in the garage hence no solar. After a short time the lights on the front of the MPPT went off. What does this mean?

Most likely a power-saving mode (conserving battery power). My Victron controller also automatically "turns off" when it senses no PV ("solar") power.

3. The MPPT manual says to use sealed lead acid, AGM or lithium batteries. My dealer installed two flooded 12 marine deep cycle batteries. Is this setup ok?

Yes. "Flooded" = lead acid. Those batteries will work, but as with almost everything that comes with the trailer they are not the best (IMO).

4. My dealer wired the second battery parallel, positive to positive and negative to negative. The MPPT controller is wired to the first battery. Should it have been wired positive to the first battery and negative to the second battery?

Won't make much of a difference given the low amperage coming from the MPPT to the batteries. The batteries will balance themselves.

5. It seems this can be a dangerous system to work on if the panels are producing a charge. How do you safely disconnect power from the panels with no inline disconnect switch?

A disconnect is the best option. Push comes to shove, put cardboard or a blanket over the panel on the roof. Any covering will reduce the panel output to zero.

6. How does this solar charging intermix with the charging from the onboard convertor when plugged in to shore power?

The converter and MPPT are (obviously) separate components unaware of each other, but they won't interfere, either. How they will react in every circumstance would be (informed) speculation on my part which you may not be interested in, so I'll spare you the technical details.

What you didn't ask (and what is highly recommended by many forum members) is a battery monitor. The Victron BMV-712 or Victron SmartShunt is a valuable tool to ensure you know the state of charge in your batteries. Very easy to inadvertently discharge lead acids below 50% state of charge (SoC). Do that too many times and you'll be buying new batteries (and you won't be happy).

Hope this helps.

Howard

[tdeperte]

From Furrion's Net-Zero Charge Controller's manual (different from yours?) under About Your Produce: ECO mode, automatic recognition of day and night



Most likely a power-saving mode (conserving battery power). My Victron controller also automatically "turns off" when it senses no PV ("solar") power.



Yes. "Flooded" = lead acid. Those batteries will work, but as with almost everything that comes with the trailer they are not the best (IMO).



Won't make much of a difference given the low amperage coming from the MPPT to the batteries. The batteries will balance themselves.



A disconnect is the best option. Push comes to shove, put cardboard or a blanket over the panel on the roof. Any covering will reduce the panel output to zero.



The converter and MPPT are (obviously) separate components unaware of each other, but they won't interfere, either. How they will react in every circumstance would be (informed) speculation on my part which you may not be interested in, so I'll spare you the technical details.

What you didn't ask (and what is highly recommended by many forum members) is a battery monitor. The Victron BMV-712 or Victron SmartShunt is a valuable tool to ensure you know the state of charge in your batteries. Very easy to inadvertently discharge lead acids below 50% state of charge (SoC). Do that too many times and you'll be buying new batteries (and you won't be happy).

Hope this helps.

Howard

Howard, thank your helpful reply. I did see the part in the manual about the eco mode and automatic recognition of day or night but I felt more info should have been provided as to what occurs in the controller under each scenario. Maybe it's just me but I found that description lacking.

I never take my batteries below 50%. I don't dry camp so I for now I just monitor my voltage through the CompassConnect app. A nice feature within that app would be the ability to set a notification if your battery voltage level dropped below a certain parameter. I will look into the devices you recommended. Thanks again.

[howson]

Howard, thank your helpful reply. I did see the part in the manual about the eco mode and automatic recognition of day or night but I felt more info should have been provided as to what occurs in the controller under each scenario. Maybe it's just me but I found that description lacking.

I never take my batteries below 50%. I don't dry camp so I for now I just monitor my voltage through the CompassConnect app. A nice feature within that app would be the ability to set a notification if your battery voltage level dropped below a certain parameter. I will look into the devices you recommended. Thanks again.

You're most welcome.

Does the CompassConnect show the actual battery voltage? If you could take a pic and post of what you see that would be great. (I have a pre-CompassConnect trailer.)

Thanks!
Howard

[tdeperte]

You're most welcome.

Does the CompassConnect show the actual battery voltage? If you could take a pic and post of what you see that would be great. (I have a pre-CompassConnect trailer.)

Thanks!
Howard

Yes it does, here is a homepage screenshot.

[howson]

Yes it does, here is a homepage screenshot.

That's great that it shows the actual voltage! Thanks for the pic.

A little off topic, but do you know the voltage level that represents 50% SoC for your batteries? (Really is important to know!) If not, what is the actual brand and model of the batteries?

[tdeperte]

That's great that it shows the actual voltage! Thanks for the pic.

A little off topic, but do you know the voltage level that represents 50% SoC for your batteries? (Really is important to know!) If not, what is the actual brand and model of the batteries?

I always thought 50% Soc on a flooded battery was 12.2 volts? The batteries are two interstate Deep Cycle 12 volt marine batteries. I know not the best option but we don't dry camp so they'll work for now. Actually, I was surprised the dealer offered and threw in the second battery. From the factory there was only provisions for one battery. They had to cut the floor in the front compartment and revise the venting for the second battery.

We had the rig towed to our home from the dealer by a friend while we wait for our new truck on order so the rig sits in the garage for now leaving me with no idea how this setup will work in real time. Would be nice to have it parked outside and run some tests as to battery longevity off grid.

[prahawalker]

4. My dealer wired the second battery parallel, positive to positive and negative to negative. The MPPT controller is wired to the first battery. Should it have been wired positive to the first battery and negative to the second battery?

I would disagree with Howard regarding the battery hookup. It probably won't make a difference in your setup but best practices show positive going to one side of the battery bank and negative to the other end. This becomes more important when you start adding more batteries or put them in series. It also depends on how they are wired in parallel. This could start a whole thread in itself. Welcome to the wonderful world of solar.

[howson]

I always thought 50% Soc on a flooded battery was 12.2 volts? The batteries are two interstate Deep Cycle 12 volt marine batteries. I know not the best option but we don't dry camp so they'll work for now. Actually, I was surprised the dealer offered and threw in the second battery. From the factory there was only provisions for one battery. They had to cut the floor in the front compartment and revise the venting for the second battery.

We had the rig towed to our home from the dealer by a friend while we wait for our new truck on order so the rig sits in the garage for now leaving me with no idea how this setup will work in real time. Would be nice to have it parked outside and run some tests as to battery longevity off grid.

According to a pamphlet I just stumbled across (see page 4) 50% SoC is 12.25 (so you were very close). It's good-to-know info.

[andyusna77]

We too recently purchased a Reflection 337RLS and love the camper! I've been pulling a travel trailer without Solar so am used to taking the batteries out during the winter. This GD Owners Forum has been invaluable and I've learned a lot by reading your many posts. Thank you. Related to Solar- my perspective is a bit different than many of you as I am not an electrician but a novice that relies on the Owners Manual to identify what, how, why to do things. As noted, GD has NOT provided much information that addresses what an owner should, or should not do related to Solar- from an operations perspective but more importantly, from a Safety view.

As it relates to Solar, my question is about whether to pull the batteries during the winter (I live in Colorado so yes it's cold but, not like up North in MN or ND) OR do I leave the batteries in place?

It seems that with a lot of sunny days we have in CO, the Solar panels MAY provide enough charge to the batteries that would overcome the draw from the propane detector and other stuff? The questions often posed for batteries in cold weather is limited charging below freezing conditions, draw, and charge falling below 50%.

If I were to disconnect the batteries, I understand that I must FIRST disconnect the Furrion MPPT controller from the Solar Panels (no disconnect switch provided by GD). The Furrion owners manual states to assure power is set between the Controller and Batteries FIRST before connecting the Solar PV. My sense is there is a safety issue with just disconnecting the batteries (as I used to do) and, there could potentially be damage caused to the Solar equipment if done incorrectly? None of this is stated to the Owners by GD (to my knowledge) and it's the Owners Forum here that provides the most knowledge.

My thoughts for this year- 1) leave the battery disconnect switch "in", and 2.) leave the batteries connected. Monitor battery charge over the next few cold months. Decide if a disconnect switch is needed between the Controller and Solar Panels for next year (done by dealership to not invalidate warranty) and then safely remove batteries.

Thoughts please, and thanks in advance for sharing your knowledge base!

Mike Anderson
Ram 3500

[howson]

andyusna77 -- GD is not about voiding their warranty for any reason. A properly installed cutoff switch installed between the solar panel(s) and the controller shouldn't cause an issue.

In the meantime, you could pull the battery at night so you can follow your previous process and take the batteries out during the winter. Just remove the wires going into the controller from solar panels (usually the "PV" marked inputs). Mark the wires clearly, take a few pics, and then safely cap the exposed wire ends. (This is effectively the same thing as having a cut off switch between the panels and controller, just not as convenient.)

If that doesn't make sense...please ask questions.

[andyusna77]

Thank you Howard for the response. I wasn't implying GD would try to void their warranty- they have the highest reported customer satisfaction and that influenced me to buy GD. Having said this, I worry I might not get the cutoff switch properly installed given my lack of electrical knowledge...a novice. My fault, my responsibility.

I understand your suggested process with working at night which limits the solar panel bringing in a charge through the wires into the controller. Makes sense. Does this suggest you would not advocate leaving the batteries connected during the winter?

[howson]

Thank you Howard for the response. I wasn't implying GD would try to void their warranty- they have the highest reported customer satisfaction and that influenced me to buy GD. Having said this, I worry I might not get the cutoff switch properly installed given my lack of electrical knowledge...a novice. My fault, my responsibility.

I understand your suggested process with working at night which limits the solar panel bringing in a charge through the wires into the controller. Makes sense. Does this suggest you would not advocate leaving the batteries connected during the winter?

My fellow moderators Cate&Rob and TucsonJim are more knowledgeable on that particular topic due to their firsthand experience. They (or others) may have more to add on the topic. My suggestion to remove them sprang from the apparent success with your process in the past, so given the trailer will sit for an extended period of time...why change and wonder?

For myself...I live in Florida and the trailer is in my backyard, so the batteries stay in and the trailer is always powered since I can keep an eye on things.

[Cate&Rob]

andyusna77
Hi Mike,

Welcome to our owners technical forum. When you have a chance, have a look at our welcome post. https://gdrvowners.com/forum/main-fo...to-new-members . This will help you set up your signature and navigate the forum.

My input to this discussion is that there is absolutely no need to remove or trickle charge a lead-acid battery during cold storage. Just completely disconnect the battery (or batteries). The self-discharge rate of a disconnected battery is less than 5% per month. Considerably less at cold ambient temps. So . . . a fully charged battery will theoretically be at more than 75% state of charge after 5 months. I have personally experienced this (for several decades) with boat batteries left in the boat for 6 months of Canadian winter storage, proving to be above 80% state of charge in the spring.

Rob