Swapping OEM SCC for Victron?

[Mike & Rebecca]

After reading about someone claiming their Furrion SCC burned up their SOK lithium (I realize one report does not mean it's a fact the Furrion caused the problem) I'd like to swap out the Furrion SCC and replace with a Victron.

Are the wires from the Furrion 165W solar panel (just one) to the SCC "standard" and can easily be used with the Victron SCC? I'll be paying a shop to do the install, but I'm just wondering how large the project will expand into, or if it's an easy component swap.

Thanks!

[ncitro]

After reading about someone claiming their Furrion SCC burned up their SOK lithium (I realize one report does not mean it's a fact the Furrion caused the problem) I'd like to swap out the Furrion SCC and replace with a Victron.

Are the wires from the Furrion 165W solar panel (just one) to the SCC "standard" and can easily be used with the Victron SCC? I'll be paying a shop to do the install, but I'm just wondering how large the project will expand into, or if it's an easy component swap.

Thanks!

In April the Moderators are going to Grand Design for some technical training and high on our list is a review of all of the solar options out there and what they all entail. That said, given I have not actually seen the setup I would think it should not be a big issue. The Victron gear connects to the panels with a terminal strip with bare wires. I would think even if Furrion uses a proprietary plug of some kind (indications from people with the solar ready rigs are that they use one on the roof) you should be able to cut it off and terminate those wires directly into a Victron SmartSolar controller.

[Country Campers]

The wires from the Furrion should easily be switched to the Victron, they will just be loose wires when removed. I would take this time to add a battery disconnect switch between the solar panel and the Solar Controller, as well as a breaker between the controller and the battery. The breaker size should be the same amps as the controller, this is what I used to size my breaker. This will allow you to turn off the solar controller if needed, good to do when removing or replacing the battery. The breaker will protect the battery incase there is an issue with the controller.

Brian

[howson]

After reading about someone claiming their Furrion SCC burned up their SOK lithium (I realize one report does not mean it's a fact the Furrion caused the problem) I'd like to swap out the Furrion SCC and replace with a Victron.

Are the wires from the Furrion 165W solar panel (just one) to the SCC "standard" and can easily be used with the Victron SCC? I'll be paying a shop to do the install, but I'm just wondering how large the project will expand into, or if it's an easy component swap.

Thanks!

This is a very easy swap, Mike. The input to the Furrion controller and a Victron will be literally just moving four wires. Just make sure (depending on which model you buy) that it's the bare wire version and not the MC4 connector version. The bare wire version typically has "TR" somewhere in the model # and if it's the MC4 version...it will have MC4 in the identifier. I think most of the ones you'll be looking at are all TR versions (since they only come in the bare wire setup).



Also, spend a little extra and get the SmartSolar version of the controller so you can monitor with VictronConnect on your phone. It's way cool and worth it IMHO.

Finally, consider if you're going to expand the number of panels on the roof in the future. If it's a possibility, upsize the controller to your best guestimate..

Howard

[ncitro]

howson Wow I didn't even know they made an MC4 version. Good catch.

Mike, you might also take this opportunity to add a Victron smart shunt or battery monitor as well. Nice to have it all working together and I'm one place.

[NickinCO]

Really unnecessary, you're just throwing away $ plus whatever labor they charge you to put it in. Like someone else said it's just 4 wires. The reason it probably burned up their battery is they probably didn't enter the correct charge parameters or left it on lead acid. Check out this website-

https://www.currentconnected.com/product/sok/

They are a SOK dealer (the importer I believe). Scroll to the bottom under the link "charger and inverter settings", find the parameters for the Renogy controller. It is the same app that is used by Jamboni. Make sure you've downloaded the app for the solar controller (it came with the paperwork for your trailer and you'll need the password). Enter those parameters and you'll be fine, you'll have to do the same thing with the Victron app or risk the same outcome. I have two SOK 206's running with this setup and it works just fine. The Jamboni is an MPPT as well, the only reason to upgrade is if you plan to run more than 400w of solar as then you'll need more than a 30a controller.



EDIT: I now realize you said Furrion and not Jamboni.... It still might be the same controller just rebranded? if not please disregard the above! If the Furrion unit is an MPPT and you can enter custom charge parameters the above information still applies!

[NickinCO]

howson Wow I didn't even know they made an MC4 version. Good catch.

Mike, you might also take this opportunity to add a Victron smart shunt or battery monitor as well. Nice to have it all working together and I'm one place.

If you add a smart shunt buy the bluetooth dongle as well to plug into the VE port. Otherwise your range will be about 3'. With the smart shunt on my trailer tongue I had to stand at the very front of the trailer to get a signal. It's a common problem if you google it. Adding the bluetooth dongle for $50 gets you range up to about 30' away.

[Mike & Rebecca]

The wires from the Furrion should easily be switched to the Victron, they will just be loose wires when removed. I would take this time to add a battery disconnect switch between the solar panel and the Solar Controller, as well as a breaker between the controller and the battery. The breaker size should be the same amps as the controller, this is what I used to size my breaker. This will allow you to turn off the solar controller if needed, good to do when removing or replacing the battery. The breaker will protect the battery incase there is an issue with the controller.

Brian

Thanks!! Added those components to the project list. I think I would have remembered to add at least the disconnect, but it's a good reminder.

[Mike & Rebecca]

Really unnecessary, you're just throwing away $ plus whatever labor they charge you to put it in. Like someone else said it's just 4 wires. The reason it probably burned up their battery is they probably didn't enter the correct charge parameters or left it on lead acid. Check out this website-

https://www.currentconnected.com/product/sok/

They are a SOK dealer (the importer I believe). Scroll to the bottom under the link "charger and inverter settings", find the parameters for the Renogy controller. It is the same app that is used by Jamboni. Make sure you've downloaded the app for the solar controller (it came with the paperwork for your trailer and you'll need the password). Enter those parameters and you'll be fine, you'll have to do the same thing with the Victron app or risk the same outcome. I have two SOK 206's running with this setup and it works just fine. The Jamboni is an MPPT as well, the only reason to upgrade is if you plan to run more than 400w of solar as then you'll need more than a 30a controller.



EDIT: I now realize you said Furrion and not Jamboni.... It still might be the same controller just rebranded? if not please disregard the above! If the Furrion unit is an MPPT and you can enter custom charge parameters the above information still applies!

Nick, I bought the SOK from them and Dexter has been phenomenal! I'll gladly spend money on a product when that type of support is provided. If I had my own rv blog I'd be doing everything I could to endorse his company!

[Mike & Rebecca]

howson, NickinCO and ncitro thanks for the additional suggestion! Much appreciated. I already have the SOK and the Victron 712 BMV monitor. Both not installed yet because we took off on a "Gilligan's" cruise in the 5'er. Was originally a two week trip and now extended to at least a month and maybe longer.

I'm paying for professional install of most of the new equipment because I'm not confident I'd get it right, nor do I have the free time or the tools. We work while on the road so my excuse for not doing my own work is that it's time I could be making money at something I'm actually proficient at.

Regards additional solar - I'll keep that in mind. I suspect most of our time will be with electrical hookups, as we rarely dry camp. In addition, the month we've been on the Oregon coast we've seen the sun maybe 4 days. And we're parked under trees. We've got a 2200i Honda to get us extra juice if we need.

I might add another 206ah SOK though, as I suspect that would get us through the occasional 3 days of dry camping, particularly with the Generator on hand.

I still need to purchase the Victron SCC and battery disconnects(s) and fuses.

Regards the claimed Furrion MPPT burning up the SOK - I think that started in one of the GD Facebook groups and then carried over to the DIYSolar forum. For anyone that wants to dive deeper into it. Dexter at Connected Current comments on the issue in the DIYSolar thread and I've been conversing with him directly just to get his opinion on building a "safe" system.

Again, appreciate all the insight. It's a challenge answering questions for us rookies, particularly when we haven't included all the salient info in the OP.

[Bobsrv]

Does anyone use the Furrion MPPT50 or does everyone just switch them out for Victron Or Renogy MPPT. I have a 2022 295rl with factory solar 2 renogy 100ah lifpo4 batteries and installed renogy 20 amp dcto dc charger . Furrion is very vague about their setting and voltages for lithium.

[allenrude]

I switched out the Furrion that came with my 2022 28BH. Added the Victron solar controller and the Victron Smart Shunt. Coupled with a Raspberry Pi running the Victron Remote Management software and its a great, manageable solution. Now I just need to add some new batteries.

[jdfritz]

The wires from the Furrion should easily be switched to the Victron, they will just be loose wires when removed. I would take this time to add a battery disconnect switch between the solar panel and the Solar Controller, as well as a breaker between the controller and the battery. The breaker size should be the same amps as the controller, this is what I used to size my breaker. This will allow you to turn off the solar controller if needed, good to do when removing or replacing the battery. The breaker will protect the battery incase there is an issue with the controller.

Brian

If a battery is disconnected from a solar charger with solar panels connected it can damage your solar controller. Also verify that the solar disconnect is rated for the DC voltage. Most battery disconnects range from 12v-48v. If you have 2 panels on series your will be at 70-90v depending on your solar panels.

[allenrude]

Hi Brian,

the solar disconnect that i have in my picture are rated to 250V. Ao am vovered.

thanks
Al

[Bobsrv]

I just replace the Furrion charge controller with a Renogy Rover 40 amp. The Furrion controller was grounded to frame do i need to ground the renogy?