2021 GD Solitude 2930 RL roof truss layout

[Dgrothen]

I'm getting ready to do a solar install on my 2021 Grand Design Solitude S-Class 2930RL. I'm wondering how I could get the truss layout on my rig. I know I can use a stud finder but that is a bit of a guessing game, If I can get the truss layout, then i could determine it what I'm finding makes sense. Does anyone know where or who I call to get something like this? Thanks

[Country Campers]

I'm getting ready to do a solar install on my 2021 Grand Design Solitude S-Class 2930RL. I'm wondering how I could get the truss layout on my rig. I know I can use a stud finder but that is a bit of a guessing game, If I can get the truss layout, then i could determine it what I'm finding makes sense. Does anyone know where or who I call to get something like this? Thanks

Contact Customer Service, number on the home page, have your VIN and explain what you are doing and they should send you the truss layout. They will also ask that it not be posted to the public.

Brian

[Dgrothen]

Thanks Brian

[Yoda]

I'm getting ready to do a solar install on my 2021 Grand Design Solitude S-Class 2930RL. I'm wondering how I could get the truss layout on my rig. I know I can use a stud finder but that is a bit of a guessing game, If I can get the truss layout, then i could determine it what I'm finding makes sense. Does anyone know where or who I call to get something like this? Thanks

Doug - it would probably be faster with the stud finder. To start, there will be a truss at every seam. Then probably 2 in between. You can pull the inside trim ring on the skylights / vents and measure from there too. Even with the drawing they will probably be off a bit. What I did was get the panels about where I wanted them, used some blue painter tape to mark the attachment locations for them then used the green frog tape to mark the stud locations, and adjust from there. The chances of hitting a stud with every mount is slim. I think I was lucky that two hit on each panel. The roof sheeting is plenty strong though.

Good luck

[howson]

Dgrothen

Screwing a panel's bracket into a truss is not a requirement during installation--assuming you're not mounting a residential monster of a panel(!). The 12ea 100W panels I installed have survived 1,000s of miles of towing with no issues whatsoever, and are "just" secured to the roof decking with Renogy's recommended screws.

Not questioning your decision to do so, just providing an alternative (based on experience) for consideration.

Howard

[acoleman43]

The spacing of the trusses is not consistent and the trusses aren't necessarily "square" to the trailer. You're better off using a stud finder if you really want to know what's underneath the decking.

When I removed the factory installed panel on my trailer, 3 of the 6 mounting brackets had loose screws. One of the brackets was not even secured to the roof decking because all screws were had "stripped" the decking. None of the mounting brackets had screws into trusses. The panel didn't move for over 5000 miles.

When I installed the 6 new panels, I did hit a truss in about 6 of the 36 mounting brackets I used. My basic rule was that if the screw was tight against the bracket and did not keep revolving, it was good. If the screw kept revolving, I would add an extra screw into the bracket (each bracket had 4 mounting holes but only required 2 of them filled) until I had 2 of them that were tight and not moving on me.

So far, no issues.

[Dgrothen]

My plans have been to use 4 runs (2 on each side) of 13/15 uni-stut the length of the trail allowing for the mounting of 10 - 200 watt panels (5 panels on each side). Then on top of the uni-strut using a a pair of 1 1/2" angled steel to cross between the uni-struts and mount the panels to those. I'll also bolt the two angles together at one point allowing for a hinge of sorts for tilting (mainly for roof inspection and cleaning)

I'm trying to minimize the holes in the roof and allowing some flexibility in the placement of the panels by using the uni-strut`. I feel like it would be best if I was able to fasten the uni-strut to the trusses as that should provide the most secure mount. Thus the reason I'm trying to find the trusses. I'm finding that a stud finder through the roofing membrane and plywood is not the most reliable and tried three different stud finders too.

[howson]

Dgrothen -- I'll be very interested in the installation. Please take pics and post them along with lessons learned. Thanks!

Howard

[Dgrothen]

Interestingly enough, I was on the roof one dewy morning and was able to see all the plywood seems. I did use a stud finder to validate before bolting to the roof. I had a solid connection at each point. I did use a 2" x 2 1/2" x 1/4" aluminum block between the roof and the uni-strut to allow for water flow and more flexibility in dealing with the curvature of the roof.