Good tangent
I looked into the separate plastic panels another brand uses, but folks are having problems losing them when driving (screws pulling through as it flaps in the wind) and they are a custom fit. Now as far as 1/4" holes in a 2" flange every foot or so I am not sure it is a problem. But you do have a valid concern. All of my frame cracks are due to welding to the frame web - done wrong, but non the less welding. A lot of components get bolted to the frame and if done properly (reinforcement) should hold. Now if my repairs go as I hope they will, I will end up with a new 2x2 sub frame. I plan to pre-drill holes in the center of the tube, out of the stress area.

Unfortunately on the stock situation GD just drilled into the flange where the person placing the coroplast happen to hit. I assume at the factory the frame is upside down and they just lay it out and go to town with the self drilling 1/4" hardware. I doubt there is even a placement plan. On my unit that was all over the place, both on the inside flange and outside flange with a few total misses. An yes this could be problematic if there were a lot of them. My steadyfast has two larger holes on the inside flange about 1.5" apart. I plan to have thees holes filled and the brace welded to the new subframe, or a separate plate to bolt to added

Now when I put it back up I plan to install in sections just as you suggest. For GD to do that would take time and more components/weight and I am sure it was not worth it to them. If it had not been for my modifications and frame cracks I doubt I would have pulled the coroplast. Besides in most cases dealers just cut it loose and tape it back together - not a good solution but quick.

Happy Thanksgiving
Keith

Gee I get to spend more money!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! and a new tool to boot I had no idea they existed. I wonder if I can just get the 1/4x 20 somewhere? Have you used them by chance? Would it work in a drill press? Wondering on the tap portion feed?

Keith

On edit
Found the singles - the come in all sizes
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauke...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

https://www.zoro.com/greenlee-drillt...CABEgIkU_D_BwE

https://www.amazon.com/Greenlee-DTAP.../dp/B07ZDS9KDF

Now to find a video on how to use
Found one https://www.google.com/search?client...0PEPop-9yAE_26

From a machinists point of view and someone who drills and taps holes on a daily basis I would be careful of the drill/tap all in one item. If the part that is being drilled and tapped is not secure with no movement you will have a good possibility of breaking the all in one bit, once the part starts to move a little and you try to move back and steady it is when the bit will break, I am not a fan of these for any application except in really thin metal which does not include the frame flange. I would drill the hole then hand tap if threads were required. Just my .02 and worth the amount you paid for it.

Brian

Jlawles2 ​
For the heck of it I got two of the Greenlee ones coming (good ratings) to try. Had a 20% off coupon. If they don't work so be it. I watched a video on how to use a drill press with them. If not I will drill the pilot hole with the press and finish up with the tap. Should make quick work on the cross braces. Now the frame may be different, especially under the suspension where the clearance is tight.

However I also saw a neat right angle 1/4 hex chuck drill head - looked something like this one https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-M...XTMF/316938970 Anyone have one?
Keith

Your spot on where the only thing I can think of that makes this sort of OK is that the frame does not flex all that much. Drilling a beam in the flange is generally not acceptable. A single seam in the middle of the rig would make rolling the coroplast back on one end be it from the middle or fore and aft where it can easily be rolled back in place with one end attached.

Jim

Yoda The tap will essentially self-feed in a drill press with little follow pressure. Hand tapping has less risk of breaking. Greenlee is a good old brand.

The self drilling type screws typically have the least pull out strength when compared to regular sheet metal or thread cutting (machine thread) type screws. They are a compromise for speed for sure. I especially dislike them when used for things like plastic fenders into the sides of trailers.

Be careful with those right angle adapters. The torque is transferred only when the head is held still. I suggest saving the over suspension ones for last. Why not have there welding guy put the tubing next to the flange of the frame or offset heavily toward the center to give you more clearance. This will also make it easier to remove.

Wow, if all your cracks were at the welds, I'm thinking the frame was flexing a lot (and the welds weren't). Probably a good think you're stiffening the frame......now you got me thinking :(

Hi Keith,

Makita makes an 18V close clearance drill that works well. Just helping to add to your tool collection .

Rob

You definitely need one of those Keith.