This thread might give you some ideal of what you may run into. https://gdrvowners.com/forum/exterio...flection-220rk How having said that I believe if yure careful you should be able to run along the inside frame by lowering sections of the coroplast belly material. A fish tape might come in handy.
Keith

Yoda Thanks Keith, wow what a mess of wires and other stuff!
Brad

Hey Brad, I ran the transmitter cable for my HALO view underneath like you described, even inside some of the 2" square tubing at the rear, then up the ladder and over to the top center mount camera location. I had no issues going underneath by loosening the under panel screws for access, then re-tightening. I did not like how the final result looked on the rear of the camper, and my wife said she did not like the cable going up along the ladder. So I removed it, and used the roof technique from the camera to the front where I mounted my transmitter. I've had no issues with it so far.

I ran my GM camera cable under the trailer below the coroplast. Zip tied it to the frame and the propane line most of the way. This is working fine for 20k miles. My opinion is that it would be an unusual situation to damage this wire.

Bigdog3162 FlyStar thanks for the information!
Brad

Only thing I'd suggest with this approach is inspecting and replacing the zip ties every year. At least out here in Arizona, I see zip ties get old and break over time if left outdoors permanently.

Hey Brad, I did not like the way my GM rear camera cable was doing with my routing option at the very front of the RV. I had a loop from under the front of the RV to the truck bumper where camera port is located. I had it suspended but just did not like the way it looked, and it was exposed. Today I did a re-route of the cable inside the front storage compartment, along the driver side strapped to front jack mechanism, over the front hatch door to the pin box opening. I used one of my wire fish rods to pull it through the overhang above the skin. Pulling the cable was easy, but the connector on the GM camera cable is like a treble hook with two ears and a pull handle. This made it pretty difficult to get thru the open slot where the bend of the exterior skin and the aluminum frame member above hatch door. Once I got it thru the slot it went well. I used electrical tape to secure the cable to the 7-pin cable coming down out of the pin box. For now, the cable in the ribbed flex protector will just go over the tailgate to the bumper mount camera input. I had read where someone else ran some wires or cable to the pin box like this so I tried it. Much better, but a little difficult.
Rob

Not a fan of the routing either. One would think that truck MFG would duplicate all the connectors in bed and on bumper. My luck the camera wire would get yanked (pulled would be too nice) out of the bumper causing damage to the connector on the bumper leading to a whole mess of electrical gremlins.

Several years ago I ran across a law (have not found it since) that stated it was illegal to run trailer wires OVER the tailgate. I can understand this as it increases the possibility of the connection to the lightning becoming damaged. Funny thing is if the tailgate was removed, there was no longer a violation.

Joseph, I understand, and I will continue to refine this setup. I only have 2 options left since I won't travel without my tailgate (1) pop a 1.15" hole in the bottom of my bed and use a grommet to route the wire to connection point, or (2) try to relocate the connection point inside the bed near my 7-pin connection. The law you cite may have been in place for the trailer lighting wiring, which I understand and agree with, this cable has no effect on the operation of the camper or truck, it is an accessory and I can travel without it if needed. I don't like going over the tailgate so I will keep working on this. Here is a photo of version #1 which I did not like at all.
Rob

Version 2 is definitely an improvement. Have you filled out the GM survey and noted that the location of the trailer plug should be duplicated like the 7 pin?

I bought the 2022 Denali used with 10k on it. I'll be taking it in for the fuel filter change and discuss mud guards. I'll see what they say about the camera port. I'll check some GM owners sites too. The camera itself works great.

I asked my local GM dealer about that port, I did not have brakes with the 7 plug in the bed. I asked why the flat 4 was in the bed and the camera port was at the bumper, I have a fishing boat and the flat 4 on the bumper is handy. Anyhow when I asked about this they said they could not move it. I looked at all the new trucks they had and the ones with the camera port/option all had them on the bumper. Bad design I think. Maybe your dealer will tell you something better.

Brian

OK, found some good info in some GM forums on how to swap the 7-pin assembly from bumper to inside truck bed. All you need are two special optical cables from a special order company listed in the video. Total cost around $60. I'm going to try this mod, there is a YouTube by a guy who shows step by step. Good to know there is an answer!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P9-IFWxmNR0

https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/top...for-5th-wheel/

https://www.pasternack.com/fakra-jac...8444-36-p.aspx

So I have been out of touch for awhile and would like to share just a couple of thoughts regarding the plug issue.
I would suggest that you definitely use the Pasternack cables as noted, but use the 48" version. Some have had success with the 36", and they will likely work but from my experience of doing this having the additional 12" allows for ease of routing the cables and attaching them to existing electrical cables under the truck.
Second, as noted cleaning the bed liner material is probably the hardest part... I used my Dremel and a razor blade scraper. When I finished removing just enough bed liner, I painted the metal under the plug location with Rust-Oleum black paint for rust protection.
Third, when removing the plug inside the box, I found using a small flat blade screwdriver to pry the plug out just a little helps when pinching the snap clips that lock it in place. That little bit of outward pressure helps pop out the plug.
Fourth, be super careful with the plug connections, they can break if you force them.
This process worked for me, hope this helps.
Brad