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**Tigger1** · 07-22-2020, 10:01 AM

Originally posted by mpking View Post

Now for my Grand Design specific questions:

Does anyone have any brand specific preferences? I've seen quite a few with Blue Ox SwayPro's on the forums. (And people adding Straptek's onto that) Mainly because there is no exposed grease on the bars, among other things.. Etrailer really seems to push the Equalizer system.

You will get lots of different opinions like which truck should I buy, but here is my personal experience.

I originally had an Equalizer 4-point that worked as advertised but became too heavy to lift with back issues. Did research an decided on an Andersen. It’s light weight (under 60#), easy on/off, quiet, can back up, has very good sway control, probably as good if not better than equalizer IMHO, is rated for up to 14,000# gross trailer weight and up to 1,400# tongue weight and Andersen has good customer service and stand behind their warranty.

I’ve been using the same one across three different TTs now for five years. No problems until a month ago it started making a loud groaning noise. When I got home contacted CS and shared some photos, they sent a new ball housing and triangle plate free of charge within a week. Problem solved.

**Calbar** · 07-22-2020, 10:06 AM

Originally posted by mpking View Post

First foray into Travel Trailers. Also my first time experiencing a Weight Distribution hitch.
I'm seeing this post as a two fold.
1. I really don't know this information. I needed to do a lot of research, this is what I found.
2. Probably a good sticky thread

I'll have questions at the end, but first can you guys fact check me? (Most of this was gathered from various sources, I'll attribute what I can)

Types of Weight Distribution Hitch's
http://www.hitchwarehouse.com/Choosi...tribution/284/
ROUND BAR KITS

The shape is round
These bars will slide in from the bottom of the ball mount (what holds the ball of the hitch and any other devices, such as a hitch distribution system)
If you travel mainly on paved roads without much dips and potholes, these would work well.
600-1200lbs tongue weight distribution

TRUNNION BAR KITS

The shape is square (mostly, some are round)
These bars are inserted from the side.
Allows a higher clearance room. This is good if you have a trailer that is already low because any potholes and dips would case the bottom of the round bars to scrape the road and over time would wear the bars down. Also, if you are travelling on gravel roads more frequently or for extended periods of time the clearance room in the trunnion bars would be beneficial.
When turning corners the trunnion system will lift one bar and throw extra weight onto the front tires of your towing vehicle, which will aid in better steering ability especially on gravel roads.
600-1700lbs tongue weight distribution
The cost of these are normally $50-$100 more than the round counterpart

ANDERSEN WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION KIT

Chains and shock absorbers replace spring bars so there is no bounce when driving
Trailer ball is included (2” and 2-5/16” available)
Includes friction sway control
Trailer ball turns with trailer which provides a silent ride
No need to snap up spring bars, a nut is used to tighten the chains and shock absorbers
200-1400lbs tongue weight distribution (hitch warehouse recommends for 200-800lbs tongue weight)

Choosing the right size
https://www.etrailer.com/faq-2-steps...tion-size.aspx
Step 1. Determine Your Total Tongue Weight

First, you need to figure out your loaded trailer tongue weight (TW). Your tongue weight is the downward force you're putting on the ball of the weight distribution setup with your loaded trailer, plus the weight of any gear behind the rear axle of your vehicle.

Note that this is not the dry (unloaded) weight listed on your trailer spec sheet, but rather the fully loaded, ready-to-tow weight after you've packed in all the gear you want to carry.

To determine your trailer tongue weight, you can use a scale like this one from Sherline or the Bluetooth-enabled HaulGauge. Weigh Safe also offers a ball mount with a built-in scale. You can also use one of the other methods outlined in our help article, Determining Trailer Tongue Weight. Also add in the weight of any cargo (gear, coolers, luggage, etc.) you've added behind your rear axle.This sum will be the total tongue weight you have to work with.

Step 2. Select a System with the Right Weight Capacity

Pro tip 1: It's best that your total tongue weight (sum of your trailer tongue weight and cargo) falls in the middle of your WDH range. This gives you a bit of wiggle room if your tongue weight varies between trips. For example, if your total tongue weight is about 1,000 lbs, a weight distribution hitch with a tongue weight rating of 800 - 1,200 lbs is ideal.

Pro tip 2: Not all systems allow you to backup when it's connected. Look for systems that allow backing up.

Pro tip 3: Not all systems work the same. Some have sliding components, so grease is on exposed surfaces.

Pro tip 4: Not all systems contain sway control. Read descriptions carefully.

Which system?
Everyone should make their own decision. Etrailer has put together a top 5 list: (2019 and 2020 list is linked)
https://www.etrailer.com/faq-top-5-w...ches-2019.aspx
https://www.etrailer.com/faq-best-hi...-trailers.aspx
They are a store, and they most likely get "direction" on which product to suggest, but the reviews seem solid.

Additional Reading material:
https://www.etrailer.com/faq-weightdistribution.aspx
https://www.etrailer.com/faq-choose-...ch-5-tips.aspx

Now for my Grand Design specific questions:

Does anyone have any brand specific preferences? I've seen quite a few with Blue Ox SwayPro's on the forums. (And people adding Straptek's onto that) Mainly because there is no exposed grease on the bars, among other things.. Etrailer really seems to push the Equalizer system.

You have done a lot of research here and seems to be pretty accurate. I also see that you are towing with a Tundra. I towed with a Tundra for 10 years and it is a great tow vehicle. I have used the Reese Straightline hitch for over 13 years. First trailer with 800 lb bars and the Reflection 297RSTS with 1500 lb bars. You will absolutely need something with sway control for such a large trailer and the Tundra. It is a great tow vehicle but with that trailer you will be at of slightly over the specs for payload. I was about 300 lbs over payload.

In all the years of towing with the Reese Straightline setup I have never had sway at all. It is a very good setup. A bit finicky to setup but once it is dialed in properly with the trailer level and all of the weight returned to the front axle it works great. Make sure whatever system you get you don't need to disconnect when backing up. I have never had to and had some very tight spots to get into.

If you decide to get the Reese and need setup help just ask. As well Reese has awesome technical support to help as well.

Rob

**TucsonJim** · 07-22-2020, 10:08 AM

MPKing - What an informative post. It's much appreciated.

personally, I use the Blue Ox weight distribution/anti sway hitch. But I recommend you go to the next higher spring bars than what they recommend. Through trial and error, I have found the best ride with 2000# bars, even though my tongue weight is between 1400-1500#.

Jim

**mpking** · 07-22-2020, 06:35 PM

Originally posted by Calbar View Post

You have done a lot of research here and seems to be pretty accurate.. but with that trailer you will be at of slightly over the specs for payload. I was about 300 lbs over payload.

Rob

I always try to put the effort in for questions. Makes the answers much better.

Your comment concerned me.
Sticker on the truck says 1380 (with a second sticker says subtract 80 for the stepbars) giving me 1300
Subtract 10% of the GVWR (7495=750) gives me (1300 - 750) 550lbs left over for payload.
Payload of the Family (500, I'm not breaking that down by person, but I"m not using the FAA 177 pound number) puts me right at the edge.

Good to know I shouldn't have anything in the bed of the truck (was not the plan anyways), and I need to start running on the treadmill. :-) I wasn't planning on driving with full tanks of water. I'll have to keep that in mind as well.

**mpking** · 07-22-2020, 06:55 PM

Calbar You also made me look my specs up on the truck... Toyota docs state the Payload is 1640 (Trust me, I'm going by the lower sticker number) I just thought the discrepancy is funny. But it also indicates I have Electronic Trailer Sway control. Cool beans.

**Calbar** · 07-22-2020, 07:12 PM

Originally posted by mpking View Post

Calbar You also made me look my specs up on the truck... Toyota docs state the Payload is 1640 (Trust me, I'm going by the lower sticker number) I just thought the discrepancy is funny. But it also indicates I have Electronic Trailer Sway control. Cool beans.

the 1640 is a base truck. You need to use the payload rating on the door sticker as that is for your truck as configured. Mine was a CrewMax and had a payload of 1260 lbs. I was fine with being 300 lbs overweight though. I had as much as 2000 lbs of dirt in mine at one time and it squatted less than my 2006 Sierra that technically had 400 lbs more payload. Tundras are over built in my opinion but that is only an opinion.

Rob

**Tigger1** · 07-22-2020, 07:29 PM

Originally posted by mpking View Post

Calbar You also made me look my specs up on the truck... Toyota docs state the Payload is 1640 (Trust me, I'm going by the lower sticker number) I just thought the discrepancy is funny. But it also indicates I have Electronic Trailer Sway control. Cool beans.

I found that by going to the CAT scale to get my curb weight (full tank, nobody in truck) resulted in a little over 100# more than the sticker on the door jam. Since payload on Tundras is not great, every little bit helps.

**tonygoncalves** · 08-24-2020, 02:19 PM

I too use the Andersen WDH, and I love it. Alot lighter than the Curt WDH with 800lb bars that I used to use, which helps when payload is a concern, and no more dirty/greasy bars to store. I did find it bouncy at first, because I hadn't loaded up on the urethane bushings enough. Now I tighten the nuts so that 7 threads show, and it tows great.

Also, the Electronic Sway Control that the trucks advertise selectively use the brakes to try to bring the sway in. It's kinda like anti-lock brakes: great to have when you panic and need them, but it's best not to get in that situation in the first place.

**DON51** · 12-07-2022, 06:17 PM

Anybody know the Trailer coupler height of Imagine 2600RB? Looking to set my ball height before I go and pick up my new TT.

**TucsonJim** · 12-07-2022, 07:35 PM

Originally posted by DON51 View Post

Anybody know the Trailer coupler height of Imagine 2600RB? Looking to set my ball height before I go and pick up my new TT.

Hi Doug, and welcome to the forum! If you plan on 24 inches, you'll be right in the ball park.

Jim

**acoleman43** · 12-07-2022, 08:55 PM

mpking I use the Equal-i-zer WDH with my 21G.

Pros: I have never experienced sway, WD is as advertised, fairly straight forward setup.

Cons: Heavy, bars are heavy, load when turning (everybody hears you coming).

When I come up with $700 I will switch to Andersen for 2 reasons: hitch is lighter, and no heavy bars. There's really no good place to store the bars when we are camping and the hitch is super heavy (testimony at the quality of the Equal-i-zer - they did not skimp). The weight of the Equal-i-zer system is over 100 pounds....but it works as advertised.

As far as payload....Grand Designs says the tongue weight of the 21G o about 920#. My 21G tongue weight (when in camping mode) is about 1350#. Once you have batteries, propane and load the 2800BH the tongue weight will be a couple hundred pounds heavier than Grand Designs publishes. Also, I have added about 200# to the truck in aftermarket stuff. My payload on the sticker is 3,166#. You would think with a tongue weight of about 1350# that will leave me plenty of room in the payload department....but, at the cat scales when we are at camping weight, I am about 300# under payload. Things add up quicker than you would think....

**mpking** · 12-12-2022, 03:56 PM

Originally posted by acoleman43 View Post

mpking I use the Equal-i-zer WDH with my 21G.

Pros: I have never experienced sway, WD is as advertised, fairly straight forward setup.

Cons: Heavy, bars are heavy, load when turning (everybody hears you coming).

When I come up with $700 I will switch to Andersen for 2 reasons: hitch is lighter, and no heavy bars. There's really no good place to store the bars when we are camping and the hitch is super heavy (testimony at the quality of the Equal-i-zer - they did not skimp). The weight of the Equal-i-zer system is over 100 pounds....but it works as advertised.

As far as payload....Grand Designs says the tongue weight of the 21G o about 920#. My 21G tongue weight (when in camping mode) is about 1350#. Once you have batteries, propane and load the 2800BH the tongue weight will be a couple hundred pounds heavier than Grand Designs publishes. Also, I have added about 200# to the truck in aftermarket stuff. My payload on the sticker is 3,166#. You would think with a tongue weight of about 1350# that will leave me plenty of room in the payload department....but, at the cat scales when we are at camping weight, I am about 300# under payload. Things add up quicker than you would think....

This is a Very old thread. I chose a Blue Ox 2 and half years ago.

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Weight Distribution Hitch (WD Hitch) advice for Travel Trailers

Weight Distribution Hitch (WD Hitch) advice for Travel Trailers

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