The numbers don't lie. Get all the numbers for the truck and the trailer and enter them here:

http://changingears.com/rv-sec-calc-...eight-tt.shtml

Don't become a member of the "two-timers club" (those who have purchased too much trailer for their truck and had to upgrade the truck). Besides safety, overloading the truck will put extra stress on drivetrain and components and shorten the lifespan of the truck.

Rob

Thanks Rob. So many unknown variables here... to get the GVW of my truck for this calculator, do I need to just go get it weighed WITH my whole family sitting in it and gear loaded? Same with the RV. Difference between YVW and GVWR is huge (2000lbs!). I don't plan on pulling it with anything in the tanks (other than to the tank station). But it seems like in every case according to the calculator the answer would be "it depends". I can get the weights under the ratings with a reasonable estimate of stuff, but I could also imagine it going over.

Yes, you would need to have everyone jump in, fill the gas tank, and head for the nearest CAT scales. Since you probably don't have the WD hitch yet, add in another 100# for that (on top of what the scales tell you). "Don't plan to..." is kinda like "always" and "never" - iffy terms to bring into an equation.

Rob

PS/Forum Hint: Use "Quote" instead of just "Reply" and that person will get a notification.

I had a 2009 Tundra and towed a very similar Rockwood for 9 years with it. My Rockwood was about 400 lbs lighter and 80 lbs less hitch weight. Family of 4 and all I put in the box was 4 bikes. I was about 200 lbs under my payload so it can be done. I put pretty much everything in the trailer and never took firewood along.

I also towed my 297RSTS for a year with just my wife and I and put about 7,000 miles on it. The Tundra was 200 lbs over payload but still under rear axle rating. It towed both trailers very well. I was at the limit of what I would tow with a Tundra not for lack of power or braking but just due to payload but I was comfortable with it.

Depending on how you load and how old your kids are you will likely be just under or just over weight but it is doable with a Tundra.

Rob

Reading your first post it seems like your cargo carrying capacity is 1270 - 138 = 1,132 #'s. My guess is with a family of 5, bicycles and a reasonably loaded Image 2910 you're going to go a good bit over that rating.

In most cases it's your cargo carrying capacity that determines what you can tow. That's a pretty big family and trailer for a small cargo carrying capacity.

Short answer: The truck will be grossly overloaded.

Jim

Thanks for the advice all, so it seems like the 2800BH might be a better fit. I rented a 2013 Heartland 29BDSS that is in the 2910BH weight and size range, and kept all the camping equipment in the RV. No bikes. With an older equalizer hitch everything played nice and level, no issues with sway, even in some pretty nasty rain getting passed up by 18 wheelers (though I did keep the speeds really low). I think with this setup I could do the 2910bh, but just to make sure I am on the up and up I am going to look at the 2800BHs instead.

The 2800BH will help you lose 1000# of weight , thats good. Also looking at the floorplan you will gain some kitchen counter space , this will be great with a family. The bath also moves to the rear. Quite a difference in the 2. I hope this will work out for you.

Brian

Welcome to the forum!

I'm a 2800BH owner and wanted to give you some real world numbers on the rig to help your decision. Our typical load-out for a long weekend of camping brings our trailer in at about 7,700 lbs. Our tongue weight sits at about 1100 lbs give or take. This includes full propane, holding tanks empty, and all food/clothes/camping gear. Our typical tongue weights have worked out to be between 13-14% of the loaded trailer weight.

I'm in the "two-timers club" as I started with an 18 F150 Lariat 3.5EB with a 1,750lb payload capacity. Plenty of power to move the trailer but not enough truck to handle the other dynamics of the trailer. I was well within all the numbers for towing and payload (200lbs to spare on payload) but the practical towing experience was not enjoyable.


I upgraded the tires to LT tires, put in air bags, and even bought a ProPride 3p. The first two made a little difference and the last one made the biggest difference. I had a Blue Ox to start with and it was a great hitch. I spent many hours dialing it in and still couldn't get the trailer to behave. Then I got the 3p dailed in and it was a huge difference. I never had sway with the Blue Ox but it would push the front of the truck left or right too much. Once I got the 3p the trailer and truck moved as one unit. The problem is the trailer was still in charge of the truck. Any speed over 55mph would become pretty sketchy.

The published numbers on the trailer are dry from the factory with no propane or batteries so you can pretty much ignore those numbers. I wish I had listened to some of the forum posts I read but I really wanted the truck work because the numbers were there.

I ended up with a 3/4 ton and the whole "night and day" line is not an exaggeration. It's a joy to drive the rig now.

Hopefully this helps guide you in the right direction for picking out your new trailer.

Feel free to message me if you have any questions about the the 2800. It's a fantastic trailer and a great layout.

p.s. - Do some research on the westlake tires these come with. You may find that it's cheap insurance to replace them with a better tire. You can read my experience here: https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...rom-blown-tire

Any time I see "bunkhouse" and "half ton crew cab" I'd be willing to bet you're overloaded.

I had a F150 3.5EB towing a 2650. With just my wife and I the truck was overloaded. "E" tires helped quite a bit and I considered spec'ing out a new F150 but in the end I went with a F250. It's a much better towing experience.

I had a 2010 Tundra crew cab and a 28'bunk house (33' overall) I upgraded the tires to E range and put the TRD sway bar on. I towed it for a year and never felt comfortable. There would be some sway and tail wagging once in a while. I was also running the BlueOx pro which is a very good system. I had a cap on the Tundra which added some weight to the truck. The axle was on the verge of capacity and I was constantly worried about everything being overloaded on the truck. Following year I traded in for a Ram 2500 and it was the best decision I made. I never worried about the payload and the camper pulled significantly better.