I think a 2 x 10 doug fir about 24" long with an angle cut on each end would be just as good as an option , cheaper too. The bridjit will not save the rear jacks if the driveway is steep. Your overhang behind the tires will impact the driveway before you reach the bridjit device. Maybe , maybe not.

Brian

Yep--concerned about that, too. I'll ask my SIL to figure that out (without using the camper!) by sending him measurements.

howson
You could flatten the transition from road to driveway with longer pieces of 2x10, suitably blocked/shimmed to keep these "ramps" flat and supported as you back up them. Depending on how straight a run you can get at these, you might want to use double 2x10s cleated together on the bottom side to give you 18" wide ramps for each tire.

Rob

Howard,
My initial thought was a few pieces of 2x10 or even 2x4 put sideways with a chunk of plywood would work well - plus have the ability of being able to add a 2x6 or more on the roadway if you did need to elevate the back of the trailer before the tires started up the grade - which might still be the best way to get the trailer over the curb and up the driveway.
That said, having ridden for many years myself, ("go fasters" in my younger years, then 1200 & 1500 Goldwings, last one was a HD Ultra Classic) the Bridjit ramp intrigued me so I went and took a look at them. Pretty darn nice! Not inexpensive, but it looks like they'd make the transition from the street to the driveway much nicer in a car and reduce the stress levels when doing it with the bike.
The engineering side of my brain and construction background has come up with several ways to measure the trailer and driveway to be able to tell in advance whether clearance is an issue - but not everyone has access to the toys I do.
My assumption is you'll be backing around a corner to get the trailer up the driveway which will compound the clearance issue.
If I was tackling this on the fly I'd have a couple of 8' long 2x10 commons and some 2x4's that can be cut up and laid crossways in the gutter, saw of some sort to modify lengths as things progressed, and maybe a few extra pieces of some sort of scrap lumber - FYI, Home Despot normally has a bin with the dunnage that's used for their lumber that you can get for free.
Nice bike!
Chris

Lumber will work but you will need enough to be able to adjust on site. 1 - 8x10 cut in half and 1- 4x4 cut in half would be easy to haul and would allow for plenty of adjustment. Lay out the 2x10 sections followed by the 4x4 sections. Disconnect your trunnion bars to drop the front of the reflection, which in turn will raise the rear. Unplug your trailer connection or you will push these boards everywhere with the trailer brakes. This method should quickly raise the rig. Once you pass over the 4x4, you can move the 2x10 sections behind this board to help keep the bumper above the grade. You can also calculate your approach angle of your reflection to see how much lift you will need. If its anything like my Imagine, the plumbing is the critical area.


Jim

Still working on this issue...stumbled across another pre-made option and posting to add to the content of this thread: https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Prime...-p/92-8250.htm

Howard,

With your trunnion bars disconnected and the tongue jack raised all the way up and zero air pressure in your air bags, there is a good chance you will need nothing at all.

Jim

Guest (Jim)

I hope you're right! I'm actually working on the math right now and sending my SIL a digital level to do some checks. If you're up to it, please check my math?

howson
Hi Howard,

The crown to the road you are coming from will have an affect . . . which could help or hurt depending on where the truck is on this crown when the trailer tires reach the curb. If the back of the truck is at about the high point of the crown in the center of the road, you will not be able to get the hitch as low (relative to the curb) as you are planning. This is where ramps much longer than the small ones pictured, would help.

Rob

howson Howard,

Your trig is correct. Nice Job! With this conundrum, it may benefit you to have your bike in the back of the truck. With the tongue as low as possible, you will be surprised what you can clear. And your air bags can be inflated to handle any issues with the tongue being too low.
When I purchased my Imagine, I inquired with GDRV before I took delivery who gave me the approach angle. I was concerned since my drive has a grade similar to what you're dealing with. Once I backed the rig in, it cleared with plenty of room to spare. When backing in on an angle, one side of the rig will be on the drive before the other which will aid in gaining some height.
Those curb ramps from RV Upgrades will not help IMO.

We also have a lot in PA which has a very steep angle where I reserved a site near by as a plan B for our first trip. This way the trip will be salvaged at the cost of a minimal cancellation fee.

Jim

Your trig looks good to me too, BUT. Going back and looking at the picture of the problem area , and I am just guessing here , I believe the drive way angle will be greater than anticipated. I am guessing that it will be around 10 degrees ( not sure what the wager will be or if I get a spread or not). The only thing to do other than longer boards will be like Jim has said above , unleash the weight bars , drop the air out of the old bags , and put the bike in the bed. Dropping the trailer tongue a few inches will at least double your gain at the stabilizer jacks at the back. I also agree that the curb ramps will not help.
If I new the height from ground to top of the motor bike windshield and a guess at the distance from the curb to the car parked in the driveway , guessing about 35 feet , we could calculate the angle of the drive.

Brian

https://imagemeter.com/

Howard
Find an old hand level and check out the true elevation difference. I use a 3' lath to hold it on and have someone with my wide tape measure go around.

However a suggestion based on your correct math - run by the local lumber yard and grab enough 2'"x12" to equal the curb height (at lease 6" or a stack of 4 boards). Looks like you will need roughly 4 -8' boards per side. You can mix up the lengths too ease stacking. When you have them cut, put a 45 on the ends. Maybe have a few additional 4' lengths. What you need to do is roughly create the long wedge in your drawing with wood. Can you get lined up withe the drive and back straight in, or will you be turning too?

Then as you back into the curb and see clearances getting tight, just stop, pull forward a foot, and throw a board or 2 or 3 under the wheels and stack up the ramp as you go up the drive. Just replete until your on the drive. As your trailer moves over the boards pull them out from the front so your truck stays low increasing the clearance at the back of the trailer. Now something important - take pictures as you go and mark the drive somehow to know where to put them back to leave. If you get pressure treated they can be stacked outside for your next visit. It's the only way this will work from what I can see based on your drawing. Just mounting the curb is not the issue your needing lift until you can get the trailer wheels on the drive.

Hope this helps
Keith

PS: There one other great solution and I don't know why I did not think of it earlier. Have you daughter tear out her drive and rebuild it so you can back up it.I know go back in my corner.

howson Howard,

How did this work out for you?

Jim