With the dramatic change to my suspension I don't know that my current settings are meaningful. What I suggest is weighing your truck (without the trailer) and getting a known value for the weight on the front axle without the trailer. Now hook back up and go across the scales--what's the front axle reading? I found that it doesn't take too much difference (negative weight on the front axle) before the it starts feeling skittish.

Remember--the numbers below are old (based on previous configuration) but they show the difference between the # of links. 8 and 9 left me without enough weight on the front axle. 10 was "just right", though still not back to the weight without the trailer (the ideal number IMO). Some will argue there's supposed to be weight off the front when a trailer is attached and they may be right. But I don't like how my truck drives without weight on the front.

Jim

I have no experience with the Blue Ox system but will add 2 cents worth.
On our previous TT I used an old Reese style. With a lot of years with this setup I found that adding weight to the TV or the TT made a difference in the handling and ride. Even a small amount added in the right place changed the feel. Our TT only grossed at 8000# and I do not think we were ever at that weight. With your setup I can see that any weight changes would change the handling. My only concern is in getting the right weight , or comfortable weight , on the front of the TV will also change the weight on the axels on the TT. This is the fine line that is hard to keep track of. I have stopped different times to adjust ours just because it just didn't feel right.
Good luck.

Brian

So I re-read all the documentation from the Ford and Blue Ox owner's manuals. I switched to the 10th link on the Blue Ox (more spring tension). I then took quite a few measurements to make sure my adjustment didn't cause any other problems.

Then, I put about 250 miles on today. The results were pretty good. The steering felt more "stuck" to the ground with less under-steer. Trucks and cross breezes seemed to have less effect.

So I drove 300 miles today with 20-25 mph crosswinds. The difference between 9 links and 10 was amazing. I was driving with a very light grip on the wheel and felt fully in control. What a difference.

Jim

Two suggestions: 1) call customer service and talk to them. They have been extremely helpful with any questions I've had. 2) Make sure the ball height is correct. I had to make sure I measured the hitch on level ground and then mount the ball as close to that height as possible. I also have had to try out different chain positions. Honestly I found some days 8 links work, some days 9 links work. Depended on road and wind conditions. Either way, I found the SwayPro to be much better than other WD hitches we tried (without spending thousands).

Jim, I realize this thread is a bit old, but I’ve been away for a while. My last trip I had our Razor side by side on a hard tonneau cover on the bed. Drove about 700 miles with the 1,500 lb bars, and while at our destination, switched to the 2,000 lb bars. I had them on 9 I believe, and it felt better with the new bars, but still a bit light on the front wheels. Jim, how did you manage to get to the 10th link. I do use a breaker bar and socket now to crank the chain mechanism, but I’m not sure I can get to 10. I also lift the truck/trailer with the tongue jack, but I’m afraid someday that will fail with all the weight I have on it. I may decide someday to try that strap option if necessary.

Obviously I'm not Jim...but check out this thread: https://gdrvowners.com/towing-and-hi...-hookup-method

While the above method has worked flawlessly, I bought Strapteks. They just arrived last night so I haven't even looked at the install manual yet. Once I have some experience with them I'll start a new thread and share my .02.

-Howard

I'm using a 24" long 3/4" drive breaker bar. It's still a challenge, but I haven't run into a situation where I couldn't hook it up.

Jim