Love mine.

I’d talk to someone who has used both the Goosebox and the AUH to compare.

The Goosebox and AUH both require a good neck hitch in the truck.

Both make it easy to use your truck bed.

The AUH retains the kingpin which can be accessed by removing 4 screws if your rig needs to be handled with a standard 5th wheel hitch in an emergency or for service.

The Goosebox replaces the kingpin, so you are restricted to gooseneck hauling. Might require looking outside the RV community in the case of a truck breakdown.

The Goosebox is a little more annoying when the rig is parked since it sticks down further but the AUH has to be torqued when installed.

Nothing major to drive you to one or the other.

Jkwilson
Hi John,
See this thread. Particularly post 5 by Neil ncitro
https://gdrvowners.com/towing-and-hi...reese-goosebox

Rob

Rob is right, we debated this exact scenario, and I had both. I’m happy with my Goosebox for the ease of hooking up and not having to store the Andersen when we get to a campground, but it’s not perfect (I’m not sure anything is). I would like more space between the truck and the trailers front storage, and would also like more bed clearance. It’s possible your Solitude rides higher than my Reflection on 15” tires does which would allow you to use a raised ball and get more clearance. Likewise if not using the Ford gooseball, there’s an offset ball that will increase clearance to the tailgate, but it requires a square socket to prevent rotation, and they Ford is round.

Look at other goose ball options. the AUH is nice and light, but IIRC there have been known issues with the tubes failing. Others who make the same setup plate the top of the tube arches for increased strength. the few pounds it adds probably in creases strength 3 fold.

You can see the plating on this one: https://www.pullrite.com/products/superlite I run a super glide by pull rite.

There have been a lot of the same pictures posted over and over of the same failures from accidents or off road excursions misrepresented as random failures.

Jkwilson I do like the idea and concept of the Anderson design (probably where pullrite got the idea), but I have issues with the "unbraced" length of the tubing. By adding those small plates, it cuts the tubing length quite significantly which results in a much stronger design.

unfortunately the bad thing about round tubing used like that is any dents (yes a ding is a dent) results in the beginning of the end. Let me bring up some nostalgia here. You ever stand on an aluminum can? People always say it cant be done, but an empty can if properly loaded (no dents) will hold about 250 lbs (approximately). Now once fully loaded, any small deformation in the side wall of the can will result in a flattened can. You may or may not have done this in school for fun.

Now look back at the andersen, the tops of the tubes are crimped. Not a good way to start load introductions into tubing in my opinion. Yes it can be done, yes it works, again not a fan of that connection detail. I watched their video, thought it was a nice sales pitch. Now lets put that thing to the real world, lets add 2,000 lbs or more of lateral loads while putting that vertical load into the hitch. Bet the failure load is a lot lower.

My Andersen is rated at 24,000#. My trailer is maxed at 12,000#. I think that I’m pretty safe with that margin built in.

I agree. We have approximately 20k miles towing with our Andersen hitch. I inspect our hitch when I remove it from our truck and I have not noted any deformities as yet.

Gbarker
When I got my new trailer, the dealer recommended the Andersen Ultimate Hitch. So I looked into it. It does take up a lot of bed space. GD and Lippert say no, could cause damage and frame warranty will be void. Lots of discussion on this. Then I saw a few reports on failures, both in a panic stop and being hit. Google search Andersen Ultimate Hitch failures and decide for yourself. Some folks have mentioned bed damage from shifting hitch, but that could be user error not using a torque wrench to install. As an engineer I decided to pass on the design - not robust enough (lacking gusset bracing at key points) in an accident or emergency maneuver . Second point is I wanted to keep my trailer frame warranty.

Here is one example of failure under emergency breaking according to the owner https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...en-172847.html I have no opinion on the validity of how this happened, but it sure looks like the hitch frame twisted on the center ball and went into failure. However I don't see any bed damage (scrapes) so it makes me wonder.

As you have a standard bed you don't need a slider anyway. Both Reese and B&W have good hitches to work with your new truck. Both are fully adjustable - can even offset to the rear if needed and come apart in pieces to remove. I also considered the Reese goose box, but it wont fit the kingpin box on my trailer. I have the turning point feature. If it had fit that is how I would have gone to save weight and bed space. Good luck on your research. You don't list what trailer you have, but check to see if the Reese goose box hitch will fit - might be the answer your looking for. And if you concerned about hitting it when disconnected get a bright warning flag with a rare earth magnet to mark it. I put reflective tape on my king pin - still hit my head on it from time to time.

Hope this helps
Keith

I recently purchased a Reflection 31MB and have been looking at the Andersen. I understand all specs and that it is tried and trusted by MANY. I am not knocking it. But I contacted LCI and GD and GD directed me to LCI in reference the frame warranty. LCI said it (and the Pullrite similar system) does void the warranty because both require an additional piece mounted to the kingpin to be used and make connection to the hitch in the TV. And if you would need to file a frame warranty claim that it could be denied due to the use of those hitches. That you are "using the kingpin in a manner that is not designed to be used". That is legalese for they would find a way out of covering your frame. I then called Andersen, and they admitted that they are aware of recent research done by manufactures that show the Andersen hitch MAY cause excess stress, warping, and possible cracking to the frame. Andersen however said that if I were to file a claim and the manufacture would not cover it, that they have a lifetime warranty and would "kinda" step in and take over. He kept using the word kinda. So at the end of the day, if YOU are comfortable and that is the decision you go with its fine. You will receive zero backlash for this guy. Your decision, but we are not taking a risk of voiding our frame warranty and having to deal with the possible hassle of going back and forth with multiple company if I need to file a claim. Just FYI.... Happy Camping.