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**Yoda** · 06-13-2021, 11:15 PM

If the coupler is hard to latch/unlatch then replace. From the photos it appear to have been slightly twerked, especially around the jack, but it could just be the photo. You were lucky - had this happened at highway speed it could have been much worse. To prevent theft, when without the trailer, pull the hitch and put it in the bed and get a good locking bed cover. Have everything checked by a good hitch shop or certified person. A call to the manufacturer might help in finding the right person to look at it.

Glad your not hurt and everyone is safe.
Keith

**ThePowells** · 06-13-2021, 11:57 PM

Nobody was hurt and everything servicable.. As Keith said, it could have been much, much worse.

**TucsonJim** · 06-14-2021, 03:32 AM

Well shucks. The good news is this happened at low speed, the trailer and truck have mostly cosmetic damage and like you said, no people were injured during this misadventure.

Here's how I'd tackle it.

1. Lippert jack - Replace - Amazon price $185.
2. E2 L brackets - Replace - eTrailer price $18.96
3. Coupler - I'm not sure of the brand of coupler you have installed on the A-frame. I'd look into finding a 2-5/16" repair kit to replace your existing one. But only after a thorough inspection of the welds on the existing coupler. If you have the slightest concern about the integrity of the coupler, have it cut off and a new one welded on.
4. Safety Chains - Replace. Even though the hitch came out at slow speed, the chain links may have stretched and weakened.
5. Trailer A-Frame. Inspect the welds and connection points to the frame.
6. Tailgate - Steal one off someone else's truck.... Wait a minute. On second thought, you may as well buy a new one to keep out of jail.

Jim

**trkester** · 06-14-2021, 05:18 AM

For what it's worth, after reading various discussions over the last year and of half of having our trailer, I decided NOT to use a locking hitch pin while towing. I use the non-locking Ford factory pin rated for 20,000 pounds (or equivalent non-Ford). If I do want to lock, then I swap out the non-locking pin for a locking one after the trailer is no longer attached. Although now, I have a shorty bolt-on tube I mounted to the A-frame to store the hitch while not in use (saves shins) so don't lock to the truck at all now.

**Guest** · 06-14-2021, 07:05 AM

Its a shame this happened but it could have been much worse. I stopped using the locking pin when corrosion made it impossible to remove. A reciprocating saw with a blade called a torch removed it in seconds, where today, I use the standard pin.

I've always felt these locking pins should have a standard clip in place before the locking mechanism since any mechanical device can fail.

Jim

**familytruckster4** · 06-14-2021, 08:48 AM

Instead of using a locking pin in the hitch head, I used to leave the hitch ball in the trailer socket and just lock the latch. Probably not as secure but then again if someone wants to steal it theyre gonna steal it.

**howson** · 06-14-2021, 11:38 AM

I use a locking pin as it makes it just a bit harder for a malicious individual to mess with the ball mount. It's unfortunate, but there are individuals that think it's "funny" to undo safety devices. I've read many reports over the years of suspected tampering that results in a lot of damage to the trailer.

If I interpreted the OP's post correctly, they believe there was a material failure that separated the pin from the ball mount in the receiver, I use an anti-rattle device on both the ball mount or the trailer and also on the rack installed on the rear of the camper in it's 2" receiver. These anti-rattle devices remove all vertical and horizontal movement of the ball mount inside of the receiver. I'm not an engineer, but I believe it also relieves some of the stress on the hitch pin.

These anti-rattle devices are sized according to the reciever size (1 1/4", 2", etc) so ensure you get the right size if you choose to try one. I found the type shown in the picture works the best (and I've tried multiple). Link is to Amazon but multiple online vendors sell similar devices. https://www.amazon.com/CZC-AUTO-Anti.../dp/B07Z3729K8

if you look closely (red arrow pointing to it) there's a gap under the ball mount.

**Jlawles2** · 06-14-2021, 10:11 PM

I've read a few articles about hitch pins. Pay attention to the spring R clip. The wear and get loose which can lead to the clip falling off and the pin sliding out.

Also not too long ago on a diesel site, one of the fellow members was having issues BENDING the pin. Upon several question and answer sessions, it was determine that his hitch pin was difficult to insert. The hole in the hitch was not centered which lead to the pin carrying the load from his WDH. He was replacing the pin every trip b/c he was afraid of failure. You may want to check the hitch for alignment of the hole to ensure the pin is not carrying the load vs the front and back of the tube as designed.

My locker is a bit old now and on its 3rd truck, but she has been a good one. I've used it on TT with the BlueOx WDH but the TT was not heavy.

**StephenO** · 06-15-2021, 01:44 PM

Originally posted by Jlawles2 View Post

The hole in the hitch was not centered which lead to the pin carrying the load from his WDH. He was replacing the pin every trip b/c he was afraid of failure. You may want to check the hitch for alignment of the hole to ensure the pin is not carrying the load vs the front and back of the tube as designed.

If possible, could you explain this? Are you saying that the pin was carrying the vertical force being applied by the 'distribution' action the WDH was doing? IE, as the WD bars were engaged, the pin was being pushed on and not the hitch receiver tube?

After reading this conversation, I checked my hitch pin and can see it does have a bend to it, so I would like to figure out what is going on there.

Thanks!

**Jlawles2** · 06-15-2021, 08:11 PM

StephenO Somewhat correct. The hitch either WD or conventional should bind primarily on the inserted end of the hitch, and the opening in the receiver. In the case of the bent pin, the hitch was bearing on the pin and end of the hitch. This generates a lot of force in the pin as the WD bars are putting all of the force into the pin.

If I look at it as a torque wrench (engineering moment equation), the rotation point is the end of the hitch, the pin is the retainer, and the wd bars are pulling against the pin. For sake of ease, if the end of the hitch to the pin is 1fit and the end of the hitch to the end of the WD bars is 5', there is a 5:1 multiplication of force vertically on the pin to the force of the bars. Again for simplicity each bar is providing 600 lbs up lift for a total of 1,200 lbs, this results in 6,000 lbs on the pin.

In the case of the other truck forum, upon inspection the member noticed that then pin hole was not centered in the hitch bar. To insert the pin, he was having to lift the hitch to align the holes.

**StephenO** · 06-15-2021, 08:48 PM

Thanks Jlawles2 for the explanation, makes sense! I found why my pin has a bend to it, and I posted about it in the same channel...

**Guest** · 06-15-2021, 09:38 PM

This seems to be more of an Impact loading due to excessive tolerances. Since the pin is at the back of the receiver, it would take tremendous force to just bend it under a static load in shear.

Jim

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