When we had our fifth wheel, we always struggled with getting the hitch to release. I'd have to manually apply the trailer brakes, then put the truck in reverse and bounce it a few times before the handle would pull out. BTW - we lost that rig five years ago today in the fire.

Jim

I installed the puck system in my truck and use the Reese Elite hitch, no problems hooking or unhooking in the past 4 years.

Brian

I installed the puck adapter to accept my Reese 16k hitch. It works just fine. I have >4k miles on it now. I can store hitch with adapter hanging from my trailer pin.

Re unhitching tight pin: I found that putting transmission in neutral eases the load to where I can release the hitch from pin.

Thanks folks for the feedback. Still researching the adapters and issues.

As for unhitching I have tried and used all of your suggestions to various success. At one campground they had a short, dead level pad for the trailer, but a sloped departure road (pull through) that the truck sat on. I'm guessing at about a 12 degree down and right angle. I thought I would never get unhooked. Took everything I had while DW rocked the truck. I was about to resort to a bottle jack wedged to push the handle out. Its my understand that with the B&W Companion that even with the jaws still closed but lever swung forward and unlocked I could have driven out of the situation. Is this correct? With the Reese, even with the handle up it MUST BE PULLED BACK to release the jaws. Hitching up later went fine - locked in the first time (I usually need to rock to get lock handle to lay totally flat and I hear the indicative click)

I am thinking that once I get the new truck to measure the bed rail to base height and calculate how high the hitch head will be. Today as I take thing off my old truck (hitch, air compressor, horns, CB, etc) I can take a few measurement where I have things currently set. Just need to put them in a safe place and remember where I put them. I might take a few photos too.

Thanks Again
Keith

Yoda
Hi Keith

This is a timely discussion . . . as I am going through the same considerations. I have also ordered a new truck with the 5th wheel / gooseneck prep package and have a Reese 16K on a manual slider base that fits my current rail system.

I really like the manual slider alternative (and have never had significant hitching/unhitching issues) so this is leading me towards an adapter base. (Also the lease expensive alternative.) One of the nicest things about the manual slider is the tailgate space between truck and trailer because I always hitch/unhitch with the slider moved to the rear position.

With the gooseneck ball in the bed, the "cleanest" solution would be a Goosebox . . . but I would lose the slider ability. Both old and new trucks have a 6 1/2 ft box.

Hmmmm . . . .

Rob

Thanks Rob - With the goose box would you even need the slider? I thought they shifted the unit back a few inches?

So what new truck did you order? I'm curious

Keith

Yoda
You have to go over to the other site to see my reply......

Hi Keith,

Not meaning to derail this discussion but after a lot of careful consideration . . . including where we want to travel including mountains, we went with a diesel F350 CC SRW. I almost decided on a gas F250 with the new 7.3L engine (which probably would have done the job just fine). Since the current production F150 with its all aluminum body is now 750 lbs lighter than my steel body 2014, I think we would be over the edge that we have been able to hold quite comfortably with the heavier HDPP F150.

From a previous thread, I believe that you have chosen this same truck?

WRT the Goosebox . . . I have had discussion with one owner who has travelled thousands of miles with a similar Reflection, a 6.5 ft box and a Goosebox hitch with no problems. (albeit . . . he is a professional truck driver) I have also read where others have had contact between trailer and cab. I think it will work as long as 90 degree backing turns are not attempted. This is really tough on the trailer suspension anyway.

Rob

Your intuition serves you well

We think alike..... should I be worried? Still working on the details. Tomorrow I have an appointment with the local Chevy/GMC dealer. Neighbor used to work there and gave me an unbiased contact to go over thier line, But to be honest I think the KR is in my future, SRW long bed this time. However I hope it comes with the sway bar, or that will be my first add. Crossing Texas with w 45 MPH cross wind was OK in the dually - kicked my butt a few times, but I could feel the truck working hard. Trailer was rock solid. Credit to the Sumo springs.

Yoda
Hi Keith
I sent you a PM.
Rob

We went from a gasser to diesel back in 2004. I've never considered a gas engine since. Just the exhaust brake alone makes it a far nicer tow vehicle to drive.
You will really appreciate it in the mountains. Going up...AND...going back down.

I'm moving to the light duty diesel for my next truck to tow our Imagine. With fuel prices on the rise, the little diesel will exceed the great economy I've been used to.

Jim

Yoda Keith, in reference to you unhooking issues, I had the same issue when I got the first 5er. Let's just say I have found that grease in places they say not to grease seem to be the key. Kingpin grease is critical. Also, depending on what type of lock it has, greasing both sides of the lock become critical also. King pin side and hitch side.

As for options on puck adapters, Pullrite has a system that converts the pucks to ISR. https://www.pullrite.com/4442