As discussed earlier, the "turning point" pin box only comes in one length. The attachment "wings" on the trailer are a different width than for a standard pin box, so changing to a lengthened standard pin box would be complicated. Also . . . extending the pin box (or moving the rails back) brings the wings of the pin box closer to the tailgate and closer to the side rails of the pickup box in a turn for an extended pin box. This can cause other problems.

Rob

Hi John. I don't think I can use a king pin extender since the Reflection 150 series trailers already come with the Lippert 90 degree turning point hitch system which is an extender already. Also, the brackets used between the frame and bed is truck specific for the 2015-2020 F150. Oh well.

Also, wouldn't extending a pin box put a lot of weight leverage at the point where the box is welded to the frame? The flimsy built Lippert frames would likely not stand up to this increased stress. I previously had a Crossroads Cruiser 5th wheel and the company had several issues with pinboxes detaching from the frame.

Use a BW manual slider in short bed GM3500. Works great for backing into driveway. I never like trying to get to 90 degrees. Rather I pull up a couple of times. Shart angles put fat too much pressure on RV suspension and tires.

Without knowing this hitch/pinbox details as well as others do, in my mind when on level ground there was minimal clearance then it wouldn't take much change is truck or trailer pitch/angle to cause an interference issue which would be a concern.
As for turning 90 degrees - only if there was absolutely no other choice as it's one of the most brutal events the trailer and truck suspensions will undergo and it "scruffs" the trailer tires.
Suspensions are made primarily to function in front to rear actions and survive the occasional side loading. Same for frame rails.
I run a Pullrite automatic slider that has served me very well, but after several trips and checking weights quite a few times just recently adjusted the recomended hitch location by moving it a little bit closer to the cab to increase weight transfer to the front axle. But only after checking, rechecking, and then rechecking again my measurements and calculations. First time hooked up will be this weekend and the first thing I'll do is head for a nearby open area to "real world verify". Manufacturers are generally pretty accurate with their recomendations..... but there are times to modify things?
That's my 2 cents?

Thanks to everyone for their input on my hitch issue. It seems as though the problem cured itself when I installed air bags to level the truck. The rear of the truck was about 3/4 bubble low when hitched. Didn't seem like much but after leveling, it raised the nose of the trailer enough to now clear the third brakelight by about 1 1/2 inches, since the curve of the trailer is now a little higher. I'm happy in knowing that I can do a 90 if absolutely necessary without breaking anything. Thanks again to everyone that responded. I'm finding a lot of information on this site that is most valuable.

Does anyone have a ford f250 with 6.1/2-foot bed? using turning point the on a reflection 150

Bobsrv Welcome to the family and the forum!
You can find the welcome letter at https://gdrvowners.com/forum/main-fo...to-new-members This will be a great help to you for having the best possible experience. Asking a question on a dormant thread will often be overlooked. If you ask a moderator to move your question to it's own thread it will be seen by more members and raise the probability of a helpful answer.