Hitching the Reflection 303RLS to the F350:
(Forward storage areas of trailer are empty so pin weight is about 2000 lbs vs 2200 ready to go)

Box rail height drops 3” (58” –> 55”) which is still 1 ½” higher than F150.
Both trucks sit level with trailer connected. F350 wheel arches at 40” front and rear.

Hitch sits 1” higher (from box) in F350 vs F150 due to rail/puck adapter frame.
Pin box raised up 1” (to highest position) to adjust for this. (hitch is already on lowest setting)
8” clearance between box rails and trailer overhang is more than I need. (with lowest hitch and highest pin box adjustments)

Trailer frame was towing parallel to ground with F150 . . . now 1” to 2” higher at front.
(Only further adjustment would be larger wheels and tires on trailer).
Measured at spring hangers . . . this translates to about ¼” difference front to rear (should be OK)

Manual slider vs any fixed location hitch:
The F350 box is slightly longer (behind the axle) and the tailgate is slightly higher. This translates into a noticeable reduction in open tailgate to front of RV. Now at about 3”. I don’t like having to be straight on to the trailer to hitch/unhitch without risk of an open tailgate hitting the trailer. With my manual slider hitch I can gain 10 inches of space between back of truck and front of trailer for maneuvering. This allows hitch/unhitch at an angle with tailgate open. I will stay with my manual slider hitch.

Rob

Cate&Rob Rob, I pulled the camper for the first time with the new MorRyde rubber pin box and Pullrite slider. Major difference in how it reacts. Not more jerking.

Hooking and unhooking at an more than 10° is not recommended. Not impossible. To unhook it's simply pull the head retainer pins and lift the head out of the yolks. It's possible to reattach the same way, but one would need to be almost perfect on the alignment to make the yolks with the head.

https://www.pullrite.com/sites/defau...ers-manual.pdf
Page 15
7.Can I hook up or unhook at a 90 degree angle?

Hooking up can only be accomplished when the truck and trailer are aligned within 10 degrees of each
other. See “Hitching” on page 16 for more information on hooking up. Unhooking by pulling the release
handle can only be accomplished when the truck and trailer are aligned within 10 degrees of each other.
In emergency situations you can pull the clevis pins and clips that attach the Fifth Wheel Plate or “head”
assembly to the Rocker Arm, lower your landing gear and raise the trailer up until the Fifth Wheel Plate is
free from the Rocker Arm. Pull forward from under the parked trailer. At that point you can pull the Release
Handle, remove the head from the king pin and reattach it to your hitch with the clevis pins and clips"

Looks like it should work out. I am curious as to how the truck springs are compressed? The extra 200 lbs pin weight may make a difference? I was told the springs are more progressive than my old 04. If you have anything that weighs about 200 lbs, maybe throw it in the bed and take some before and after spring photos.

As I am getting the long bed I am hoping the bed weight works to my advantage. I also up-sized the trailer tires so am hoping everything works out. My truck is cumming with 20" wheels and tires, but the 2121 had 18* as an option, so in the long run I may be able to downsize the stock tires back to 18" to slightly lower the truck (On edit the 2021 option 275/65/18 are 2" shorter). I found out the computer can be reprogrammed for different tire diameters. This is the program that can do it https://forscan.org/home.html My ford Dealer service manager actually uses it. I plan to get a laptop for Christmas and have the program and my Victron program on board. Service manager said he would be happy to help me set it up. If something happens on the road I can plug in and give him a call for help.
Just some thoughts
Keith

Yoda
Hi Keith,

I did go with the 18" wheels and tires to keep the truck as low as possible and soften the ride as much as possible (more tire sidewall with smaller diameter rims). The 20" rims certainly do look better on the truck . . . it was a tough decision to stay with the 18" wheels.

The suspension is definitely soft at the upper end to soften empty truck ride. This 350 is no rougher empty than my F150 HDPP. As I loaded the measured landscaping supplies a while back, I watched the rear spring compression. A lot of ride height compression at first and much less as the load increased. With the approx 2000 lb pin weight of the RV, the overload leaf is just touching at the rear and about a half inch away at the front. (static condition . . . see pictures). When the truck is empty, I can measure slightly more spring compression on the driver side than the passenger. I presume this is from the weight of full fuel and DEF tanks.

I will be interested to learn what you find out about the diagnostic program. I tried this on the F150 but did not find it very useful. I am learning that my dealer (who is good at regular service issues) knows very little about modifications. Even figuring out how to access the upfitter switch wiring is currently baffling them.

Rob

Jlawles2
Hi Joseph,

A manual slider hitch does not need a "wedge" to turn the slider mechanism like an auto slider hitch. The truck can be at any angle to the trailer pin and still be hitched in the normal manner.

Rob

I would think a Ford truck forum would be more help there? My Dodge dealer only knows how to diagnose/fix things if I tell him the problem and how to fix it.

When you moved the nose of the hitch up, how much you figure that piece weighs? I want to move mine up a hole and would like to be prepared

Scott'n'Wendy
Hi Scott,

Agreed that I am getting more useful information from the truck forums than from the Ford dealer. I have learned that Ford moved the entire upfitter switch wiring from one side of the engine compartment to the other a couple of years ago, so much of the online info is out of date. Some say there is wiring inside the passenger compartment and some say there is not. Looking under the hood of this truck is intimidating ! Can't even see the ground anywhere. I have learned that they start any significant service work by removing the entire front of the body and the cab from the frame !

I probably over did the plan when lifting the pin box because I was working by myself and didn't know how heavy it was going to be. I have a hydraulic lift table and blocked it up on that, took out the bolts, lifted it straight up one inch and put the bolts back in. I hand lifted it when it was loose, just to get a measure of its weight. Easily pivoted on the aft bolts, with one hand on the front end. To do this again, I would leave the aft bolts loosely in place, remove the front ones, lift to the next set of holes and temporarily secure with smaller drifts or bolts (because it won't be exactly aligned). Then remove the rear bolts and pivot that end up. A second set of hands would certainly help.

Rob

Cate&Rob Yoda I’m pretty familiar with Forscan, I’ve used it to modify a bunch of things on mine, my main advice there is to make backups before you mess with anything.

Upfitter wiring did get moved, I think on my 19 it’s on the drivers side under the hood, and the pass through wires are now on the passenger side. I can say they made the upfitter wires a bit longer now which was longer but the pass through wires are still painfully short. I’m using the most upfitter switches yet in this truck at 4/6 lol.

I like the hub mod where you tie one to a relay and use it to kill power to the vacuum pump for the hubs. That allows me to get 2x4 low range. Nice for backing into sites with a bit of a hill where you need to turn the steering wheel tight.

ncitro
Hi Neil,

Thanks for joining the conversation . . . I really appreciate some first hand information!
Can you elaborate on where to find the pass through wires? I have found the upfitter switch relay box under hood, but all output wires appear to be located there . . . nothing coming back into the passenger compartment.

Rob

That’s right, they all terminate under the hood now, so to get back inside I had to come across to get to the other side. Once over there there’s a set of pass through wires that go through the firewall and are blunt cut on both ends. The inside I got by pulling the kick panels off the passenger footwell area. The under the hood side is harder to find, still on the passenger side taped off just after get come through as I recall.

ncitro
Hi Neil,

I have heard “rumour” of these pass through wires on the passenger side (Ford dealer, Ford truck forum and now here). I have not found a picture to guide my search for these wires. It is almost impossible to see anything in the engine compartment. Maybe I should search higher up under the dash on the passenger side. There is a grommet through the floor under the edge of the passenger floor carpet. This is looking very tempting as a path to bring wires from the upfitter switch relay box, into the passenger compartment.

Rob

My truck is in the body shop until the end of the week or I would grab some photos, but I can assure you they’re there. They are short and a pain but still handy. This thread is fairly accurate (except for the people that claim they’re on the other side).

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...witches-3.html

ncitro

Neil and Rob
You have me confused. I was told the switch wiring goes from the switches to the box on the passenger side. No need to dig in the cab as they are fully run from the up fitter switch out to the junction box. At least I hope I am right now. They are supposed to be labeled too.

Curious
Keith

On edit OOPS - looks like you talking about another set of 4 pass through wires, not the up fitter wires. If so that is a plus as I need those to for the big radio I have to get power back inside.

My knowledge here is as of my 2019-

In the super duties, pre 2017 the upfitter exited in the cab (I forget which side, I think drivers) and there were also "blunt cut"pass through wires to get those to the engine compartment - also on the driver's side. In 2017 and after (at least through my 2019), the upfitter wires terminate under the hood on the driver's side, not inside the cab, and the pass through were moved to the passenger side. The passenger side footwell is also where the PTO bundle is now if you're looking to do a high idle mod as well.

When all else fails read the manual under accessories https://www.fordservicecontent.com/F...US_04_2021.pdf
AUXILIARY SWITCHES
The auxiliary switchboard on the overhead
console makes aftermarket customization

easier with six prewired switches

connected to the power distribution box.

Each circuit is individually fused for

connection of electrical accessories.E220728
The switches are labeled AUX 1 through

AUX 6. They only operate when the ignition

is in the on position, whether the engine is

running or not. We recommend that you

leave the engine running to maintain

battery charge when using the switches

for an extended time or when using higher

current draw accessories. When a switch

is turned on, the indicator light on the

switch illuminates and the circuit provides

power to the device wired to that switch.
Note:AUX switch 1 is dedicated to the
off-road lamps when your vehicle is
equipped with this option.E347548
There are three sets of blunt-cut and

sealed circuits. Two sets are under the

hood and behind the battery tray, and one

set is inside your vehicle at the passenger

footwell.
The powered set (A) is taped behind the
battery tray and is marked with a red spot

tape.
The second set (B) is also under the hood.
It is taped behind the battery tray and is

marked with a white spot tape. This set

routes to the interior passenger footwell.
Remove the battery and battery tray to
access the under hood circuits.E347399
The interior set is taped on a wire harness

by the passenger side footwell. This set is

the other end of the circuits taped behind

the battery tray marked with a white spot

tape.
Remove the fuse panel access door in the
kick panel to access the wires. If you do not

see them, you may need to pull them

down.
See the Fuses chapter of your Owner’s
Manual for information on fuse and relay
locations. See your authorized dealer for

service.
616