Equalizer E2 and E4 are both Weight Distribution hitches, the difference is E2 is just 2 points for Sway control, whereas E4 is a 4 point. E4 control Sway better. Perhaps upgrading your hitch...?

You raise a good point where it looks like the E2 is also at the high end of its distribution limit at 900lbs to over the edge with the 2600RB. I've worked to make the Equalizer 10K unit work but would buy the 12K unit if I were to purchase it again.

Jim

My first time out, I pulled my TT from Ohio to Texas. Not much sway, but more porpoising than I would have liked. I checked the setup on my Equalizer E4 (WDH) and it only had 4 washers and measured only 25% distribution using the measurements on the front wheel well. In other words, too much tongue weight on the ball and not enough distributed to the front wheels (and trailer axles). First thing to check is height of the ball compared to the tongue height, it may be set up for a lower/higher truck. My F150 is pretty high. I reset the WDH by adding one washer and measurements came up to 75%, the manufacturers recommendation. Much better towing with that setup, still some porpoising on very bumpy roads, but 100% better than before. I second the E4, no appreciable sway, even on windy days. Getting weight at a truck stop would be the best, but the set up process will get you close. There are good videos on how to weigh the tow vehicle (TV) and TT, hitched and un hitched and they will give you weight of both axles on the TV hitched and unhitched as well as weight of the TT hitched and unhitched. I found a good video on the setup for the E2, try resetting and you may see improvement. It may be a combination of ball height and angle (number of washers) of the hitch.

https://youtu.be/aNmcYI2Pp9w

Tim

I ran 800# bars on my Reese dual cam for my 2600RB. If I had it to do all over again I would have bought 1000# bars. The 800 were okay but I sometimes thought a little more tension would have been better. https://www.reese-hitches.com/produc..._Control,26002

When we sold that trailer and unloaded it I had visions of the movie The longest trailer with Desi and Lucy. I am always weight conscious but sometimes things happen to get put in the trailer that are of arguable value

I've done well with my 1000lb bars but with full water and loaded for a one week dry camp....and throw in Michigan hwy my GMC could strike the jounce bumpers at times. This did not harm anything but it was not comfortable.

12K bars would slow this downward acceleration down a bit while also firming up the ride. With the 10K bars and 960lbs of tongue weight my bars are at the high end of their capability. I needed more to smooth things out and increase suspension travel, so I added the air bags. With my current strategy, the truck sits on the main springs and air bags and will engage the secondary spring for more severe transitions. The truck rides extremely well with the bags. No porposing, bottoming, or sway.

Jim

I did similar only instead of airbags, I used Roadmaster Active Suspension. With this setup, I have a few inches of suspension travel before I contact the overload leaf spring. It adds some rake to the truck when I'm not towing. It kindof sits like a 2wd truck with the rear end a bit higher than stock, but I really like what it's done for my trailer towing. With the TT attached, it sits just a shade under where it did stock without the RAS.

So, to the OP, there are other good options out there to help out if you dial in your hitch and you're still not happy.

I know the numbers work and I pulled my 2600RB on quite a few in state trips as well as to Florida and Alabama from Michigan twice, having said that, I felt like this trailer fully loaded was about all I would want to tow with a 1/2 ton. In a perfect world I would have liked a 2500HD but I used what I had at the time.

I'm happy with my current half tons performance where the 2600RB is the decent balance for this truck but no more.

The new half ton 3.0L Duramax with max tow is the TV I'm after. New towing and payload is coming for this truck at around 13200 and in the neighborhood of a ton for payload.
Now my dilemma. There is a new version of the LM2 engine referred to as the LZ0 coming where I'm looking for the changes and whether to wait or not.

Jim

I know information has been scant on this, but I read a couple days ago that it's basically just rerouting of cooling lines to fit it in the new full size SUV platform. Would be nice if they addressed the oil pump belt and DEF consumption rate while towing!

I don't know a single person who has the baby Duramax who doesn't say it's the best engine they've ever had in a truck.

I have also seen the same in addition to some rumors that the emissions package may be different. I agree the rear belt concerns some but it should not be an issue. I have driven this truck a fair amount of time, and it is awesome where 30+ mpg is possible in non-towing.

Cooling lines would not drive a new RPO unless it changed engine side components.

Jim

The rumblings I have heard on that new engine has a cylinder deactivation system in the mix along with some undefined changes to the timing belt. Considering what those deactivation systems did for the reliability of the 5.3 I have to say its not a step in the right direction. They took a bulletproof engine in the 5.3 and ruined it.

I believe the cooling line issues relates to the availability of the new engine in the Tahoe due to the architecture being slightly different on the SUV. Likely just some engineering work and a few new part numbers would solve that. My bet would be that it finds its way into the SUV.

I agree it would be good to at least have it in the suburban. I've heard there have been issues with some components in the new DFM system where the AFM has been reliable. AFM in the 5.3L has been around for years where I had it in a 2008 Silverado. They will get it worked out or already have and I've heard the customer support is there.

To be honest, I would prefer the diesel without cylinder deactivation and stop start. However if the cylinder deactivation ends up being reliable, the fuel economy gains would be a game changer. Also I am seeing AFM/DFM delete over the chip shortage.

For those that are not familiar with AFM or DFM, these are cylinder deactivation systems where AFM is V8/V4 where DFM can disable down to a couple cylinders. Chryslers MDS (multi displacement system) is the same as the AFM system where de-activation is done in the lifters. Ford is also getting on board with cylinder de-activation.

The internal combustion engine is still advancing and will be around for a long time.

Jim

Thanks for all the advice. We did not have a concrete surface so I parked the truck on plywood and used some more to get measuring points. First, we over adjusted and then removed a few of the added washers and the new distributed front fender height was 1/16 inch more than the unloaded height. This worked much better. Any sway was almost instantly corrected or limited by the new setup. Wind and rough roads where semis have beat up the travel lanes are still somewhat problematic, not with sway but with bounce.
Thinking about a pair of these shock : https://www.carparts.com/shock-absor...3?&vehicle[submodel]=XLT&vehicle[model]=F-150&vehicle[make]=Ford&vehicle[year]=2013

Any other ideas?
Tow vehicle is F-150 XLT 5.0 liter with tow package and 6 speed electronic automatic. TT is a 2021 GD Imagine 2600RB.

Bill

Air bags will eliminate bounce and porpoising, along with quality shocks.

Jim

I put Timbren springs (Summo works also) on my truck, and Bilstein shocks. What a difference those made.