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**Yoda** · 06-14-2022, 02:53 PM

So with everything ready to go the next step is installing it on the pucks. I pulled all the cotter pins so I cold adjust the nuts and gave each assembly shaft a squirt of white lithyum grease (none on the locking cleats )

Ready to go

Installed. You will note there is no interference from the bed mat. The unit sits proud on top of the puck assemblies. I had no problem getting the locking arms to firm up. The head is tilted to the side due to the built in shock absorber on the passenger side of the hitch head. I did lube everything up per the instructions.

And we have 4" to top of Retrax bed rails.

So it was time to hook up. The rear view stop light camera has alignment marking to held you line up. Took a couple of try's, but everything hook up easily. No rocking or fighting to get it to lock, SWMBO was impressed.

Good tailgate clearance when down. I can fit thru the gap to raise the tailgate. With the tailgate I can almost get the front bay cover fully open, but it will open enough to get access if needed when hooked up.

**Yoda** · 06-14-2022, 03:02 PM

The final results are pretty good.

No the best picture as the truck is not parallel with the trailer being nose down . In this position I have 6" at the raised tailgate lip and 8" at front lip of trailer overhang, so I believe I am good. Trailer is basically unloaded.

With full weight on the truck as she sits I am 1.5" nose high. I don't believe this will be an issue as I have another 300 lbs of stuff to go in truck bed and the water tank on trailer is empty and the storage pass through is not fully loaded either. It was also nice to just unlock the hitch and pull out - no fighting.

So now I think I am good to fully secure the cam locks (get cotter pins set) and torque down the arm bolts.

Any thoughts?

Thanks
Keith

**Jlawles2** · 06-14-2022, 04:06 PM

With the way the cam locks work, you could put a dab of lubricant on top of the ears that lock into the underside of the Double "D" hole in the bed. Now I would not put lubricant between the top of the puck and the bottom of the hitch as this is a critical area.

**Yoda** · 06-14-2022, 04:32 PM

Originally posted by Jlawles2 View Post

With the way the cam locks work, you could put a dab of lubricant on top of the ears that lock into the underside of the Double "D" hole in the bed. Now I would not put lubricant between the top of the puck and the bottom of the hitch as this is a critical area.

Correct Joseph - No lube on top of puck and hitch base area I just lubed the internal rotating shaft that turns, I did not lube the top of the ears as you call them either as I had no issues getting the handles to lock. I adjusted the castle nut to get a very firm lock - had to slap with palm of my hand as my arm strength is not what it used to be. I ended up using a light weight rubber mallet (normally used on my irrigation pipe fittings and slide gates) to tweak the final 1/4" inch to get the locking holes to line up. It might weigh 1/2 lb total - nothing like a hammer.

Any thoughts on the current 1.5" nose high? I got that measurement from measuring the front and back of the trailer to the concrete drive from the lower trim (both sides). I guess I could double check using the frame later.

Keith

**Scott'n'Wendy** · 06-14-2022, 04:49 PM

Just my opinion....I would raise the pin box one set of bolt holes....if you can.
Or maybe it's the front jacks holding the trailer up? It's just more nose high than I would like.

**Yoda** · 06-14-2022, 05:07 PM

Originally posted by Scott'n'Wendy View Post

Just my opinion....I would raise the pin box one set of bolt holes....if you can.
Or maybe it's the front jacks holding the trailer up? It's just more nose high than I would like.

Front jacks were off the ground 1" in the picture, but like i said I have no additional weight was in the truck. I could drop the hitch head an inch (lowest setting) but I am concerned that will not leave enough rail clearance ( 6" or less) and truck and trailer were not sitting level.in the picture.
Keith

**Cate&Rob** · 06-14-2022, 06:36 PM

Originally posted by Yoda View Post

Good tailgate clearance when down. I can fit thru the gap to raise the tailgate. With the tailgate I can almost get the front bay cover fully open, but it will open enough to get access if needed when hooked up.

Hi Keith,

Good information! It looks like your tailgate to front of RV clearance is about the same as mine. Makes sense since either regular box or long box are identical aft of the axle. I would argue that the 3" of clearance with the tailgate open is insufficient . . . but it is what it is. This is something we Ford owners have to deal with. A similar vintage GM has 8" more clearance between the open tailgate and the front of the RV! See the attached .pdf that I put together a while ago . . . and, actually reviewed with Grand Design . . . from the perspective that they need to consider the changes happening to current trucks. My 2014 F150 had considerably more space between truck and RV than my 2022 F350.

From my perspective, this is insufficient clearance. The front compartment of my 5th wheel is my workbench/tool storage. I need to be able to fully open the front compartment door. I also like to be able open the tailgate when not exactly aligned with the trailer. This leads me to thinking that a manual slider hitch is a necessity for a current Ford TV. B&W has a nice one, that I have my eye on . . . but, my current Reese manual slider accomplishes the clearance as well.

Rob

Truck Length.pdf

**Cate&Rob** · 06-14-2022, 06:41 PM

WRT your question about the front of trailer being 1 1/2" high . . . this is probably not significant (I have the same situation). If you measure at the front spring hanger and the rear spring hanger, this difference is probably about 1/4" . . . barely measurable in the realm of trailer suspension tolerances.

Rob

**Sandridge4** · 06-14-2022, 08:12 PM

I have the same hitch and really enjoy it!! My only complaint is removal…. Make sure you eat your Wheaties before pulling the head after towing, even greasing as B&W says in the instructions it is a bear to take off before pulling the base.

**Yoda** · 06-14-2022, 09:38 PM

Originally posted by Sandridge4 View Post

I have the same hitch and really enjoy it!! My only complaint is removal…. Make sure you eat your Wheaties before pulling the head after towing, even greasing as B&W says in the instructions it is a bear to take off before pulling the base.

Scott
LOL Yep found that out after doing the install test. I needed to take the head off to finish the bolt torquing. Yep it was stuck. I found rocking it set it free. I think the lithium grease creates a suction with the rubber bushings.

**Yoda** · 06-14-2022, 09:39 PM

Originally posted by Cate&Rob View Post

WRT your question about the front of trailer being 1 1/2" high . . . this is probably not significant (I have the same situation). If you measure at the front spring hanger and the rear spring hanger, this difference is probably about 1/4" . . . barely measurable in the realm of trailer suspension tolerances.

Rob

Thanks Rob

BTW did you build that front storage box? Looks sweet.

Keith

**Scott'n'Wendy** · 06-15-2022, 06:12 AM

Originally posted by Yoda View Post

Thanks Rob

BTW did you build that front storage box? Looks sweet.

Keith

I think there is a thread here somewhere on it. It's one of the first things I saw on this site when I joined. After seeing it, I remember thinking this Cate&Rob guy goes all out when he does something....

Found it..here ya go
https://gdrvowners.com/forum/interio...lection-303rls

**Yoda** · 06-15-2022, 07:55 AM

Thanks Scott

Keith

**Jlawles2** · 06-15-2022, 08:39 AM

Keith, if you are planning to remove the hitch, just pull the retainers on the head and use the jacks to break the vacuum between the pivot points and the head. At that point you can either lift the head free, drive out, and manually remove the head from the pin box, or lower a bit and pull it out with the truck (don't apply full load back to the head or you will be back in the same boat). Also if you decide to lift the head, it's nice to not have to get back in the truck bed to remove it, then bend down with it. With your work table, removing it from the pin box it's at a good height for setting down. Just my observations and opinion.

With the slider, I have had to remove the head a few times to unhook (mostly at hunting lease) due to the fact that I could not get straight.

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