Refrigerator Cabinet Dissolved Rebuild Questions.

[Hortstu]

So I'm rebuilding this fridge cabinet and it's on the slide out. Before I even get to the rebuild I have to ask if there's a problem with my slide out. It sags in the middle. While the slide out is off the floor in the corners it is resting on the floor in the middle. That's the left side of my fridge and right side of the sofa. There'll be a crappy picture attached if I don't screw it up.

At the trailer wall, top to bottom of the slide out is ~66.5" high. At the front of the cabinet, which is almost the innermost edge of the slide out, the height varies but it's over a 1.5" larger opening. I measured the trim and lauan, which does not go to the floor, and it is definitely taller than at the back of the cabinet. Is the fridge cabinet supposed to float hanging from the top of the slide out? Is the opening supposed to be the same size as the back? What's correct here?

Also should I use the existing trim attachment points or should I level the countertops (trailer), stabilize the trailer, and then use this as plum and level? I know level is important for the fridge.

I have no problem with the construction aspect. It's the spot I'm putting this in that has me perplexed.

[Hortstu]

If you notice to the right of the opening the floor is separating from the bottom of my stove also.

[Country Campers]

Before you get to involved in this I would recommend that you send a few pictures of this issue to Grand Design Customer Service and get their opinion on what you should do.

With the floor sagging the way it is I would think you would want to connect it to the walls on the side of the fridge from the bottom somehow.

Brian

[howson]

Hortstu -- I'm guessing a floor roller is missing or has failed. Looking at the picture, the far left side looks way too low.

Below is what a roller looks like under my 315RLTS' kitchen slide. I don't know for sure your Transcend uses rollers -- it may be a wear bar -- but regardless it shouldn't look like what I'm seeing in your pic.



I agree with Brian -- a consult with GD Customer Service is warranted.

Howard

[Hortstu]

howson

I should have clarified, the slide is in at the moment. I do have rollers, I've seen them under there. I can't put the slide out at the moment because the trailer is parked in the street. So even if there are rollers under there they'd be almost 30" back. What keeps the slide out from sagging when it's in?

That brings me to another question. Is this a rebuild I should perform when the slide is in or out? Getting the impression out is the way to go...

Though I will reiterate, the lauan is longer at the inside of the slide out than it is at the wall. About 66.5" at the wall and about 67.25" at the interior end. I also notice that the 3/4" cleats that run along the lauan and the floor are not screwed into the floor anywhere except near the wall... They are however stapled to the lauan andfloating. The front cleat that the face trim attaches to is screwed in. floating. The front cleat that the face trim attaches to is screwed in.



Picture 1 is what I opened the trailer to find. I've only moved the kayak out of the way at this point.

Picture 2 shows the front floor cleat which is anchored and the left side cleat which you can see is floating and never had any screws put through it to the slide's floor.

[Hortstu]

howson What's with that finish nail sticking out above your roller? Looks dangerous.

[howson]

howson What's with that finish nail sticking out above your roller? Looks dangerous.

That pic was taken quite awhile ago during the installation of a residential refrigerator. No worries--trim is installed now and there's no nails sticking up.

[howson]

What keeps the slide out from sagging when it's in?

Nothing. It's not recommended to utilize a thru-frame slide (electric or hydraulic) when the slide is not fully extended. I can't judge the sag as I've never paid attention to the inside edge when the slide is in--only item of importance here is to ensure it doesn't impact the floor when it moves. If you watch the action of the slide it will "teeter totter" as it goes in and out around the center of balance.

Is this a rebuild I should perform when the slide is in or out? Getting the impression out is the way to go...

Yep, out is the way to go IMO. Can it be done with the slide in? Maybe--but the slide floor will be supported the best when the slide is fully extended.

Though I will reiterate, the lauan is longer at the inside of the slide out than it is at the wall. About 66.5" at the wall and about 67.25" at the interior end. I also notice that the 3/4" cleats that run along the lauan and the floor are not screwed into the floor anywhere except near the wall... They are however stapled to the lauan and floating. The front cleat that the face trim attaches to is screwed in. floating. The front cleat that the face trim attaches to is screwed in.

Sorry--nothing to offer here. As Brian stated earlier, that's probably best discussed with GD Customer Service to sort out if it's right or not.

[Jlawles2]

Hortstu You need to look at the top and bottom of the outside wall to see if the roof line is sloped. If the roof line is sloped this will explain why the interior and exterior heights are different.

Ideally you should be doing the repair work with the slide out, but as you mention this may not be easy due to parking on the street. Can you turn the unit around and put the slide over the curb? Use a parking cone at the steps when you have them deployed to help make them visible.

[Hortstu]

howson

Sorry--nothing to offer here. As Brian stated earlier, that's probably best discussed with GD Customer Service to sort out if it's right or not.

and

Country Campers

I have not been impressed with most of the GD customer service we've spoke with. On certain topics they've been very helpful. On others, like this situation, they don't even return our calls. We're forced to deal with GD directly and they've been adversarial to say the least. This forum has been far more helpful than the dealership and GD.
Jlawles2

Great point. I'll put the slide out and see how it measures. I do have a place to park this where I can work on it and put the slide out. It's just 25 minutes away so I've been trying to get a plan of action together while it's outside the house. I'm bringing it to it's resting place today so I'll take some measurements.

Thanks all.



Another question... To safely transport this fridge I'm going to lay it on it's back. Turn it upright and leave it off when we arrive. Should be on it's back for less than an 40 minutes. Any advice other than not turning it on? I'm not an appliance guy.

[howson]

Another question... To safely transport this fridge I'm going to lay it on it's back. Turn it upright and leave it off when we arrive. Should be on it's back for less than an 40 minutes. Any advice other than not turning it on? I'm not an appliance guy.

In the Furrion Arctic 12v 15.6 cu ft manual it has this information (under the Traveling heading): Turn refrigerator to “OFF” (LOW POWER MODE) if climbing/crawling any off-road grades. Compressor oil should resettle within 2 hours.

Allowing the compressor oil to resettle once the unit is upright is what I've read in multiple manuals (for compressor-driven refrigerators) so your plan should be good. (No claim to being an "appliance expert", either!)

Howard

[Jlawles2]

Hortstu As Howard mentions letting the oil settle is the key thing. Hopefully you have all power removed. Based on the undertaking you are in the process of doing, I appears the unit should have several DAYS to allow for the oil to settle.

The only other thing I can think of is once power is applied, hold off for 2-3 hrs before turning the unit on should it have some type of heater in the compressor to keep it from hydro starting. hydro starting is when the compressor is full of fluid (compressors are not fluid pumps but gas compressors) and it causes the compressor to experience HIGH startup loads with liquid flow through the valves possibly leading to valve failure.

As for checking the ceiling, put a framing square against the outside wall and observe the long end.

[Hortstu]

Jlawles2

Great tips. Thanks. Pretty sure you're both right about there being a pitch that I didn't observe until you mentioned it. With the floor sagging the way it is I'm unsure about the correct heights but putting the slide out should get everything the way it is supposed to be. I'm uncomfortable with the idea of some screws through the bottom of the fridge cabinet framing into the slide floor holding the slide where it's supposed to be... or the weight/ sag tearing the seam apart. I'm going to speak with a service guy at the dealer that's been friendly and see what his opinions are.

[Jlawles2]

The floor material from what I can determine comes in pre covered with the fabric. What you may end up doing (not easy or pretty at first) is using something like 2x2angle across the entire bottom of the slide to give it strength, then bolting UPWARD through the floor where it says inside the seal area for strength. You can then notch and apply the face framing materials to the angle and upward creating the cabinet boxes and frames.

Not this is not ideal. Should there be better construction methods, YES. Does better construction methods meet the requirements of strength and weight savings, most likely NOT.

Likewise the flooring could be thicker and a bit heavier to help eliminate some of the sagging associated with the contraction.