Countertop delaminating.

[FLGuy]

We have a 2021 Imagine 22RBE. I've noticed the edge of the kitchen counter (not near the sink) is starting to peel up. Its the plastic covering over the MDF board that the countertop is made of. The MDF underneath is smooth and not swollen. There are no cracks or bubbles in the countertop. Only problem is the rounded edge.
It looks like it could be glued back down, but I don't know what to use to do that. I doubt this would be covered under the GD warrantee.
Any help would be appreciated.

[Jkwilson]

Contact cement injected via a syringe and needle would be my plan. Be sure to have a good clamping plan to hold it in place while the adhesive dries.

[NoPeeking]

I think any quality construction polyurethane adhesive such as https://www.amazon.ca/LePage-Premium...ds=lp+adhesive with proper clamping will work, also.

Mike

[Jlawles2]

You may be surprised if it's covered. Depends on who supplied it to GD. Never hurts to call and speak to someone.

[Guest]

I'm opting for epoxy. It cleans up with alcohol and will never fail. Once its applied, add weight or clamp to hold the Formica in place.

West System has all kinds of applicators to get the epoxy in place.

https://www.westsystem.com/products/

https://www.westsystem.com/application-tools/

Jim

[FLGuy]

I'm opting for epoxy. It cleans up with alcohol and will never fail. Once its applied, add weight or clamp to hold the Formica in place.

West System has all kinds of applicators to get the epoxy in place.

https://www.westsystem.com/products/

https://www.westsystem.com/application-tools/

Jim

Unfortunately I won't be able to add weight or use clamps to do the repair because it is only the rolled 1/4 radius edge that is peeling up. Its about 3 feet long of peeling. I will probably use epoxy applied with a brush and try to tape the edge down until it cures.

[Jkwilson]

Unfortunately I won't be able to add weight or use clamps to do the repair because it is only the rolled 1/4 radius edge that is peeling up. Its about 3 feet long of peeling. I will probably use epoxy applied with a brush and try to tape the edge down until it cures.

You can likely clamp with some creativity. A clamp on the counter as an anchor for the clamp actually holding the surface, or a clamp pressing against a wall or piece of 2X lumber wedged against a wall.

[Cate&Rob]

Contact cement was probably what was originally used to secure the laminate . . . they just didn’t use enough around the edge. This type of glue can be used without clamping. Coat both surfaces and wedge (toothpicks?) them apart until the glue dries to the touch. Then remove the spacers and press the two glue covered surfaces together. They will quickly bond together. Alignment has to be correct the first time, but this should not be a problem with an edge that is lifting.

Rob

[Jlawles2]

One other nice thing about the contact cement is that it comes off the laminate and wood surface pretty easily just by rubbing. You can use a hard wood board with a sanded edge (rounding it as much as possible) to apply pressure to make the glue stick.

[Guest]

The bad thing about contact cement is having to let it tack up before setting the laminate down where you have one shot at getting it right. Depending in how the laminate has separated and the space to work in will determine how successful or unsuccessful the process will be. The other issue is contamination of the surface where contact cement is more critical on the surface prep and smoothness.

Contact cement was used to originally secure the Formica since its fast but its also what failed.

Jim

[Jlawles2]

I would have to see the countertop. I believe GD purchases pre-made tops that are either formed with the surface already applied, or have the surfacing applied after the tops are cut to size.

For in place laying of laminate (new install) laying a string or strips of wood (thin) until the piece is aligned. Then anchor the piece by pulling the center strip or string, verify placement, then work outward pulling the string or strips applying pressure as you go. Note doing edges first is preferred as the top will then cover the seam and help minimize or prevent the edging from getting pulled or stuff from getting behind. also note, plastic laminate may "move" a bit or "grow" with age. I have refiled several edges over the years where the laminate starts to overhang a bit.

[Guest]

If the OP decides to go the contact route, 3M M77 spray contact is excellent.

Jim

[FLGuy]

So, I decided to use Clear Gorilla Glue for the repair. The very edge of the laminate was lifting in several areas no more than 1/2 inch from the lip so spray adhesive and contact cement were not really an option for my job because of the small space between the laminate and the underlying board. One part of the edge delamination was about 8" long and another spot about 5".
Glue instructions said best to apply a small amount of water to one of the surfaces to help the glue activate. After making sure the laminate would lay flat against the MDF, I sprayed a small amount of water between the laminate and MDF. I used a small brush (acid brush used to put on solder flux) and brushed the glue between the lip of the paper thin laminate and the MDF board underneath. I then used painters tape pulled tightly over the edge and wrapped it under the lip of the counter to hold the laminate in place while the glue dried.
Next morning tape off and perfectly secure laminate. No bulging or peeling from the edges.

As a side note make sure the edge of your undermount sink (if you have one) is caulked all the way around to prevent water from getting under the laminate. We looked a GD 17MLE that didn't have any caulking and the laminate was peeling all the way around the sink. Next step would be swelling of the countertop board. Use some clear silicon if it's not already there.

[AZMike]

As a side note make sure the edge of your undermount sink (if you have one) is caulked all the way around to prevent water from getting under the laminate. We looked a GD 17MLE that didn't have any caulking and the laminate was peeling all the way around the sink. Next step would be swelling of the countertop board. Use some clear silicon if it's not already there.

It happened to my sink. I was able to heat the laminate enough to stretch it back to glue and silicone it as a temporary repair (as we were on an 18 week trip), but I am going to replace my sink with the direct replacement drop in sink from etrailer.

[Guest]

So, I decided to use Clear Gorilla Glue for the repair. The very edge of the laminate was lifting in several areas no more than 1/2 inch from the lip so spray adhesive and contact cement were not really an option for my job because of the small space between the laminate and the underlying board. One part of the edge delamination was about 8" long and another spot about 5".
Glue instructions said best to apply a small amount of water to one of the surfaces to help the glue activate. After making sure the laminate would lay flat against the MDF, I sprayed a small amount of water between the laminate and MDF. I used a small brush (acid brush used to put on solder flux) and brushed the glue between the lip of the paper thin laminate and the MDF board underneath. I then used painters tape pulled tightly over the edge and wrapped it under the lip of the counter to hold the laminate in place while the glue dried.
Next morning tape off and perfectly secure laminate. No bulging or peeling from the edges.

As a side note make sure the edge of your undermount sink (if you have one) is caulked all the way around to prevent water from getting under the laminate. We looked a GD 17MLE that didn't have any caulking and the laminate was peeling all the way around the sink. Next step would be swelling of the countertop board. Use some clear silicon if it's not already there.

Very nice. Gorilla glue activated my moisture was a good choice! I'll put that one in the memory banks.

Jim