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2024 XLS 22MLE Inverter prep: What you'll now find for 2024
For reference to other 2024 22MLE owners, this is a summary of what you'll find. If you're thinking about adding an inverter, then that implies battery and solar upgrades too.
- This is a good reference to what Grand Design did. The breakers aren't labeled quite the same as a 22MLE, and the inverter loop isn't in the same location, but it's close: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9P97ANvovPI
- On the roof, the Furrion solar panel now has standard MC4 connections! So for adding additional panels, no more buying adapters or cutting the Furrion connectors off and crimping on MC4. Just buy Male-female MC4 extension cables. ☺ https://gdrvowners.com/forum/solar/1...l-installation
- The 2024 22MLE's now have 40amp solar controllers up from the previous 25 amps. So maybe 3 panels now total versus 2.
- The WFCO auto detect converter was found as a separate unit on the floor in the corner behind the breaker and on the other side of the rear dinette seat. Hopefully the "AD" works.
- The "Inverter Prep" sticker should have been put on the box in the rear corner of the under bed storage area, so people could actually easily find the loop. It appears that there is plenty of slack if you want to cut a hole between the storage area under bed and the pass through and do your install where the sticker is.
- The breaker box is labeled with "Inverter Main" and "Inverter Ret" it would have been easier to figure out what was intended if it was labeled "Transfer switch out: and "Transfer switch ret". I'm also not sure why they put the air conditioner to be run by the inverter and not the microwave? The AC has a 20 amp breaker and the microwave 15A. A 2000W inverter won't run the AC. I'll have to switch out the wires and breakers.
- The are now 2 wires on each of the current battery terminals and there are now 2 fuse terminals on the frame. The look to be about 8 AWG each. The top one has the red wire going front to the power jack. In any case, the wires from the battery to the frame aren't long enough to be loosened and rerouted to anyplace you'd expect to put new Li batteries, so I'd probably mount junction studs or buss bars on the bottom of the current battery box and then run heavier wires to the new battery location through the old battery box.
Now, if they don't change anything through the build/model year, hopefully I saved someone some detective work.
- This is a good reference to what Grand Design did. The breakers aren't labeled quite the same as a 22MLE, and the inverter loop isn't in the same location, but it's close: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9P97ANvovPI
- On the roof, the Furrion solar panel now has standard MC4 connections! So for adding additional panels, no more buying adapters or cutting the Furrion connectors off and crimping on MC4. Just buy Male-female MC4 extension cables. ☺ https://gdrvowners.com/forum/solar/1...l-installation
- The 2024 22MLE's now have 40amp solar controllers up from the previous 25 amps. So maybe 3 panels now total versus 2.
- The WFCO auto detect converter was found as a separate unit on the floor in the corner behind the breaker and on the other side of the rear dinette seat. Hopefully the "AD" works.
- The "Inverter Prep" sticker should have been put on the box in the rear corner of the under bed storage area, so people could actually easily find the loop. It appears that there is plenty of slack if you want to cut a hole between the storage area under bed and the pass through and do your install where the sticker is.
- The breaker box is labeled with "Inverter Main" and "Inverter Ret" it would have been easier to figure out what was intended if it was labeled "Transfer switch out: and "Transfer switch ret". I'm also not sure why they put the air conditioner to be run by the inverter and not the microwave? The AC has a 20 amp breaker and the microwave 15A. A 2000W inverter won't run the AC. I'll have to switch out the wires and breakers.
- The are now 2 wires on each of the current battery terminals and there are now 2 fuse terminals on the frame. The look to be about 8 AWG each. The top one has the red wire going front to the power jack. In any case, the wires from the battery to the frame aren't long enough to be loosened and rerouted to anyplace you'd expect to put new Li batteries, so I'd probably mount junction studs or buss bars on the bottom of the current battery box and then run heavier wires to the new battery location through the old battery box.
Now, if they don't change anything through the build/model year, hopefully I saved someone some detective work.