2017 Imagine 2800BH USB Ports?

[mpking]

Updating my thread. Back in Post #9 I talked about technology generation. At the time I wrote this, I could not find a USB-C panel mount that was not going to suck.

I ran across these today:
https://amzn.to/38UtaOi


and
https://amzn.to/3uNg7a0



Top one is a 12Volt device. Bottom one is auto switching between 12 and 24 volts (if you have 12 volts, it's not 30 W, it's 20W)

Bottom device has an OFF switch, so you can turn it off and remove parasitic draw (Which is a big deal for me)

I'll probably swap one of the USB chargers in my unit to the bottom one. It's only about $15 bucks.

Tagging people who have posted about USB charging ports:

howson ckreef TucsonJim Heavysledz

[mpking]

I never put any photos! (Linking to this thread for someone else, and I just realized this).

Steps:

1. Removed the radio from the entertainment center
2. Drilled out 1.25" hole in the wall next to the power jack. I did as close to the front as possible so that I would not have to struggle to get the plugs plugged in.
3. I decided to tap the power from the radio. The power draw and wire guage adequately fit on the fuse that was on the wiring.
4. Cleanup and take pictures

I also added the same charger to under the bed.

1. I opened up the Universal Dock and drilled Diagonally thru the wood in the corner. (No pictures)
2. I ran the wiring up, and placed in split wire loom to protect it.
3. I added a BlueSea ST fuse block inside the Universal Dock. I chose to hide it inside the Universal dock because:
   1. I will not access it very often, and the size of fuses was done correctly, so they should not blow. If they do blow, it's only 4 screws to access.
   2. it will protect it from damage from items in the storage compartment.
4. I drilled the holes under the bed so they are up high. This protects from items Under the bed snagging them, and also items on the floor outside the bed not accidently bending the USB cables. I might added a box on the back side (or a metal / plastic plate) to protect the wiring from getting hit/snagged.

[mpking]

ckreef . I ended up being able to reverse crimp them.

Things worked out pretty nice.

[ckreef]

Question about the end splice connectors. Is there a way to "uncrimp" them, or do you have to cut them off? I want to tap the power from the radio, but I don't want to shorten the wire if I can help it.

You might be able to reverse crimp them with a pair of pliers but generally you just cut them off. You'll only loose 1/2" or less of length if you cut really close.

[mpking]

Question about the end splice connectors. Is there a way to "uncrimp" them, or do you have to cut them off? I want to tap the power from the radio, but I don't want to shorten the wire if I can help it.

[ckreef]

Sounds like it would be in my best interest to not switch wire gauge. Another vote for the QC 3.0 panel mount, as it will accept that same gauge wire.

I too agree QC 3.0. Even if you don't have a Qualcomm device it still fast charges. As for the small blue light voltage display, mounted vertically, on my "nightstand". Keeps me from stumbling over my own feet when I need to use the bathroom in the middle of the night.

[mpking]

Sounds like it would be in my best interest to not switch wire gauge. Another vote for the QC 3.0 panel mount, as it will accept that same gauge wire.

[TucsonJim]

Jkwilson - is absolutely correct in that the fuse is there to protect from an over current situation on the wiring. If all wire sizes are the same, the one fuse should be sufficient. If not, a secondary fuse installed on the smaller wires may (or may not) be required. If the OEM fuse is sufficient for the smaller wire, you're fine. If not, then two will be required. There are lots of charts that show fuse/wire size suitability.

Jim

[howson]

Fusing is for wires, so if the wire you use to connect the outlet can handle the rating of the fuse, you don’t need another. If the wire steps down in size, you’ll need a smaller fuse to protect it.

Never thought of it that way--thanks for the response. Probably going off on a tangent, but is this why GD has "hidden" fuses (like the awning, water pump, etc) in the camper?

mpking -- given the wire is definitely a "step down in size", a fuse is advised. (I'm glad you asked! Now I know to use one, too.)

[Jkwilson]

Also, what's your take on fusing? The light in the Storage compartment is already fused. Should I insert a second fuse between this USB device and the point I tap the power? I'm thinking no, but wanted an 2nd opinion.

Fusing is for wires, so if the wire you use to connect the outlet can handle the rating of the fuse, you don’t need another. If the wire steps down in size, you’ll need a smaller fuse to protect it.

[TucsonJim]

Also, what's your take on fusing? The light in the Storage compartment is already fused. Should I insert a second fuse between this USB device and the point I tap the power? I'm thinking no, but wanted an 2nd opinion.

There is no need for another fuse. Only one fuse per circuit is needed.

Jim

[howson]

Just found this one. Might be my new favorite. QC 3.0. No light (which means no parasitic draw, which since I boondock, is ALWAYS a concern)

That looks perfect!

howson Do you have the 2017 Imagine Wiring sheet? I know (based on other threads) that it doesn't have the level of detail that most people want, but any and all information can't hurt when planning. (theroectically it should tell me what's on the circuit, right?)

I do, but I would not trust the "Electrical Plan" drawing. Start pulling fuses until the light goes out (in the circuit you're going to tap) and then isolate what doesn't work. Map out all of your 12v circuits in that manner.

I recently bought a tester (I forget who recommended it) to find parasitic draws (I haven't played with this new toy yet!).

Also, what's your take on fusing? The light in the Storage compartment is already fused. Should I insert a second fuse between this USB device and the point I tap the power? I'm thinking no, but wanted an 2nd opinion.

I'm thinking "no", too, since the circuit is already protected. But I'm not an electrician. Hopefully other experienced folks will chime in. TucsonJim gbkims Jkwilson and many others--what do you think?

[mpking]

If I'm interpreting the wording correctly, turning off the blue light turns off ALL output from the ports. So to charge the phone the light must be on?

For the bedroom, the Blue Sea offerings look like a viable option (no lights at all). If it was in the living area, the Powerwerx with the dim blue backlighting is appealing. Powerwerk's voltage indicators are kind of cool, too, but with the BMV-712 having yet another battery display would be redundant and unnecessary.

No "right" or "wrong"--just lots of options.

Tell me about it... So.... Many..... Options.....

Yes, the switch kills the entire thing, lights and charging. Not ideal. But it was in response to the parasitic draw, not the light. The light I was going to mitigate by moving to under the bed, so i'd have cool "floor lighting" (Hey, it's not a bug, it's a feature!)

Just found this one. Might be my new favorite.

QC 3.0. No light (which means no parasitic draw, which since I boondock, is ALWAYS a concern)

https://www.amazon.com/USMEI-Waterpr...dp/B07QZZP2PT/



howson Do you have the 2017 Imagine Wiring sheet? I know (based on other threads) that it doesn't have the level of detail that most people want, but any and all information can't hurt when planning. (theroectically it should tell me what's on the circuit, right?)

Also, what's your take on fusing? The light in the Storage compartment is already fused. Should I insert a second fuse between this USB device and the point I tap the power? I'm thinking no, but wanted an 2nd opinion.

[howson]

I have considered this. I was considering putting a larger panel (Smaller than what TucsonJim has, maybe just 2 holes) with an on/off switch.

Another option is to choose one with an integrated switch:

If I'm interpreting the wording correctly, turning off the blue light turns off ALL output from the ports. So to charge the phone the light must be on?

For the bedroom, the Blue Sea offerings look like a viable option (no lights at all). If it was in the living area, the Powerwerx with the dim blue backlighting is appealing. Powerwerk's voltage indicators are kind of cool, too, but with the BMV-712 having yet another battery display would be redundant and unnecessary.

No "right" or "wrong"--just lots of options.

[mpking]

I have considered this. I was considering putting a larger panel (Smaller than what TucsonJim has, maybe just 2 holes) with an on/off switch.

Another option is to choose one with an integrated switch:

https://www.amazon.com/Charge-Charge...dp/B082PNLMDS/