2022 GD IMAGINE 3250BH 3rd AC

[Lucasd3535]

Hello,

Does anybody know or can anybody help me find out if the 3250 BH is pre wired for a third air conditioner module in the back? The bunk room continually is the warmest with the least amount of airflow.

Thank you in advance!

[Country Campers]

Hello,

Does anybody know or can anybody help me find out if the 3250 BH is pre wired for a third air conditioner module in the back? The bunk room continually is the warmest with the least amount of airflow.

Thank you in advance!

According to what I see on the drawings that I have access to there is no prewire for an AC in the bunk room. A call to GD Customer Support with you VIN will confirm or deny this.

You also can drop the inside trim ring on the roof vent and see if there is any wiring there. Anything is possible in these past few years with supply chain issues.

Brian

[howson]

The bunk room continually is the warmest with the least amount of airflow.

Unfortunately, as Brian already stated, it sure looks like the rear is only wired for 12V per the layout diagram. So a couple of ideas...

1) The middle air conditioner feeds the "racetrack" in both directions. The front a/c feeds the same racetrack, but only rearward. Usually the minimum spec on an RV air conditioner is four ducts (so there's not too much back pressure). What I'd try (since it's relatively simple) is to block the forward racetracks so the middle a/c only feeds the four vents on the rearward side, and the bedroom a/c only feeds the four ducts in the front. Of course, the limitation of this scheme is that on mild days (or on a 30A site) one a/c unit may not cool the entire trailer.




2) Install an air conditioner in place of the powered vent in the bunkroom. The air conditioner must have a ceiling mounted thermostat (right on the duct cover) since there's no wiring to a wall thermostat. Kind ot like the example below. Obviously this may be challenging to short folks so a handy stool nearby will be a must.



Run the 120V wiring on the inside walls (under trim or whatever) and install an outlet to power the unit from the exterior. Kind of just like the power outlet for the entire trailer, but separate. On most campground sites there are multiple outlets (30A and 15A) besides the 50A. Plug the air conditioner into one of those. (This idea is not mine--wish I could credit the person or post where I first read about it, so just parroting what they wrote). This is obviously quite a bit of custom work, and mounting the outlet could be a challenge due to lack of built-in support in the wall...but it's possible.

Finally, have you ensured the installation of the existing air conditioners are sealed properly? Chad from Changing Lanes has an excellent video on the topic.

Howard

[Lucasd3535]

According to what I see on the drawings that I have access to there is no prewire for an AC in the bunk room. A call to GD Customer Support with you VIN will confirm or deny this.

You also can drop the inside trim ring on the roof vent and see if there is any wiring there. Anything is possible in these past few years with supply chain issues.

Brian

Thank you very much for your input!

[Lucasd3535]

Unfortunately, as Brian already stated, it sure looks like the rear is only wired for 12V per the layout diagram. So a couple of ideas...

1) The middle air conditioner feeds the "racetrack" in both directions. The front a/c feeds the same racetrack, but only rearward. Usually the minimum spec on an RV air conditioner is four ducts (so there's not too much back pressure). What I'd try (since it's relatively simple) is to block the forward racetracks so the middle a/c only feeds the four vents on the rearward side, and the bedroom a/c only feeds the four ducts in the front. Of course, the limitation of this scheme is that on mild days (or on a 30A site) one a/c unit may not cool the entire trailer.




2) Install an air conditioner in place of the powered vent in the bunkroom. The air conditioner must have a ceiling mounted thermostat (right on the duct cover) since there's no wiring to a wall thermostat. Kind ot like the example below. Obviously this may be challenging to short folks so a handy stool nearby will be a must.



Run the 120V wiring on the inside walls (under trim or whatever) and install an outlet to power the unit from the exterior. Kind of just like the power outlet for the entire trailer, but separate. On most campground sites there are multiple outlets (30A and 15A) besides the 50A. Plug the air conditioner into one of those. (This idea is not mine--wish I could credit the person or post where I first read about it, so just parroting what they wrote). This is obviously quite a bit of custom work, and mounting the outlet could be a challenge due to lack of built-in support in the wall...but it's possible.

Finally, have you ensured the installation of the existing air conditioners are sealed properly? Chad from Changing Lanes has an excellent video on the topic.

Howard

That's an awesome idea and i appreciate the thoroughness of it! I will definitely take this into consideration! Than you for your input.

[Jlawles2]

One thing I did to help on the 1st 5er with sub par vent performance was to install foam blockers just behind the vents using upholstery foam. Idea is that the air hit's the foam and needs a place to exit. Ideal would be to shape the foam like the inside of a plumbing elbow.