Emergency Plumbing Kit

[Jlawles2]

Cone washers I found at amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 not exactly cheap, but nothing on a camper is.

[Cate&Rob]

Thanks Keith,

I've got everything you've mentioned on your list in terms of spares except for the cone washers.. I hadn't thought about plugging the PEX though, sounds like there's a good story there. I'll do that just in case.

An adjustable pressure regulator should be arriving this week to replace the simple one I've been using.

Cheers,

Tom

Hi Tom,

A while ago, I put together a summary of plumbing parts and tools. In there are some ideas for ways to seal off a problem section of the plumbing while leaving the rest functional. This was cross referenced earlier in this thread, but I will put a copy here for easier reference. For whatever reason, spare cone washers are hard to find. But . . . they are interchangeable between fittings, so if you have a stock of spare fittings, you have a stock of spare cone seals .

If you install a "system" pressure gauge (I know . . . I go an about this at length ) you will see system pressures caused by water heating that are far beyond the inlet water pressure. This is the primary cause of "loosening" the soft hose to Pex fitting connections . . . not the inlet pressure. If your water heater pressure relief valve opens (not uncommon) this means that your water system pressure has reached 140 psi .

Rob

Plumbing Tools & Parts.pdf

[Tom_378MBS]

Hi Tom,

A while ago, I put together a summary of plumbing parts and tools. In there are some ideas for ways to seal off a problem section of the plumbing while leaving the rest functional. This was cross referenced earlier in this thread, but I will put a copy here for easier reference. For whatever reason, spare cone washers are hard to find. But . . . they are interchangeable between fittings, so if you have a stock of spare fittings, you have a stock of spare cone seals .

If you install a "system" pressure gauge (I know . . . I go an about this at length ) you will see system pressures caused by water heating that are far beyond the inlet water pressure. This is the primary cause of "loosening" the soft hose to Pex fitting connections . . . not the inlet pressure. If your water heater pressure relief valve opens (not uncommon) this means that your water system pressure has reached 140 psi .

Rob

[ATTACH]n53526[/ATTACH]

Thanks Rob! That guide is awesome!

[ThePowells]

I'll have to look closer but mine looked like brass already. I'll have to look again.

Is this what you mean?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Watts-1-...-SCV/203804502
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...2459/207176306

Rob, I think my preference would be to have the Nautilus panel work as designed but I can see your point.

But now you've got me thinking I got the wrong spare fittings when you say 3/4 pipe fitting.

I got some of these:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Apollo-1...1212/301541107

Both 90 degree and straight, are they correct?

Thanks,

Tom

Tom_378MBS I wasn't aware of that brass check valve, but the second link is correct.
I hadn't even considered the ball valve as recommended by Cate&Rob but I am not very concerned with winterizing but I may hang on to it for a later mod I am thinking of. I can't find the check valve that I bought and cannot access my private email from work to get the Lowes SKU.
My future mod will be adding a looping return line from the hot water line under the kitchen sink back to the inlet of the water heater. That way I'm not running a bunch of water into the kitchen gray tank every time I want to wash a few dishes.

[ThePowells]

Here is the 1/2 Sharkbite check valve, and also a flexible steel braid pex compatible connector. I'm not exactly sure about a need for the flex line now, but I'm sure I will find one in the future.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-B...lve/1000296471

https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-1...ing/1000182561

[RayBob58]

I read through this thread hoping to find some info on the fittings at the back of the Nautilus panel, to help with building my kit. Are they a standard NPSM thread? Or??? I picked up a few FIP fittings, but after some research, I'm thinking they're wrong. Thanks.