how do I get to the schwintek motor

[Dave27]

The slide out with the refrigerator will not extend. The rear side extends, but the forward side starts, then just stops. I took off the bulb seal and trim piece. The wipe seal is very firmly attached at the top. How do I get it loose so I can get to the motor?

Thanks, Dave

[Country Campers]

nprario Sorry had to remove your post, Rule #15.

Dave,

The screw that holds the motor in place is accessed on the outside, I know bad luck. The wiper seals are 1 piece and wrap around the end of the wall, the outside wiper is connected to the inside wiper. Folding the inside wiper back you can just get access to the motor. What techs do is use a screw driver or bar and bang up on the motor breaking the screw, or motor, to get the motor out. This things are a pain in the butt. Hope you can get some more info.

Brian

[howson]

Dave27

Another (terrible, lousy!) option is to drill a hole through the facia to access the exterior screw.



Have you done any other steps to extend the slide besides trying to pull the motor? (Do you know for a fact the problem is mechanical? It's most probable it is a mechanical problem...but worth ensuring before ripping into something too far.)

Howard

[Dave27]

Country Campers; howson Hi Brian and Howard,
I managed to push the slide a few inches out. This gave me enough room to loosen the set screw on the outside. I also raised the motor so it is disengaged. I thought that might make it easier to push it in or out. It doesn't, so I will leave it in place for now.

The message I get from the controller is one green blink, then eight red blinks. This would indicate a short in the wire between the controller and motor. I'm not sure what to do with that information. Right now I don't see how to remove the motor, or if I should. I don't know what to do to check the wiring, and if it is bad, how to replace it. Any suggestions?

I am also confused about the part number. The Lippert manual indicates the controller is 13398-C2. The controller on the other slide out has that number, this one is 18398-C2.

Thanks, Dave

[Country Campers]

We have seen in the past that the wires on the motor are bent over sharp and that has caused some issues, that would be the first place to look.

Brian

[howson]

Dave27

What field techs do to troubleshoot is use a test wire harness between the controller and the suspect motor. Same failure means it's not the wire harness.

Easy to test if the problem is the controller (very unlikely) -- just switch the connectors at the controller.

If it's the motor, as Brian stated you may find physical damage at the connector. Your relatively old unit may have the old, fragile style connections.

[howson]

I am also confused about the part number. The Lippert manual indicates the controller is 13398-C2. The controller on the other slide out has that number, this one is 18398-C2.

8 blinks is a missing Hall Effect. The Hall Effect is the "counter" that keeps the two sides in sync.



If you put the controller in manual override the slide *should* work (it ignores the Hall Effect counter).



The controller face should have instructions right on it. If the controller model is not a C-1 and C-2 then the instructions above may not apply.



There are multiple generations of motors from Lippert for the Schwintek system. You'll want one that will work with the specific coupler on the slideout.




Finally, there should be a white sticker visible on the Schwintek frame. Peel back the seals on the inside to find it. The sticker will have an RPO number on it. That RPO number will allow Lippert to suggest the correct current motor for your slide. See the compatibility PDF I attached for addition information. (There may be a newer info at lci1.com )

Howard

[Cate&Rob]

Physically disengaging a motor should make that side relatively easy to manually push in or out . . . if the problem is the motor. If lifting the motor did not release that side of the slide, something else is binding.

Another way to over ride the controller is to quickly reverse the operating switch position. Press “in” and then quickly switch directly to “out”.

Rob

[howson]

Another way to over ride the controller is to quickly reverse the operating switch position. Press “in” and then quickly switch directly to “out”.

I thought all that did was reset an error code? When that happens the controller is then in "normal" mode. To my knowledge the manual override procedure is different?

[Cate&Rob]

I thought all that did was reset an error code? When that happens the controller is then in "normal" mode. To my knowledge the manual override procedure is different?

When I had a non functional and disengaged motor on one side, I was able to get the other side motor to power up using the switch reversal process while I manually pushed the side with the disengaged motor. Perhaps this was just clearing an error code . . . but, it worked.

Rob

[Strider]

Here is a link to a video that deals exactly with your problem.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxEYSstvICI

Chris

[Dave27]

I managed to get the motor out. The seal is held in place at the top with a strong adhesive tape, and the motor and wires are held down with some other kind of tape. I tried running the motor by quickly changing the switch forward to back. I could get only about 1/2 a revolution in each direction, which is what was happening originally when I tried to open the slide out. I then reset the mode, and now the motor works! I should have tried that first. I took it out all the way because I thought I saw some exposed wire. Inspecting it with it out, I don't see any exposed wire. I also don't see any blockage that should obstruct operation of the slide. When I get another set of hands to run the switch, I will reinstall it and see what happens.

Is there any reason not to put the set screw in the front? At least that way you only have to work on it from one side.

Thank you for your help. I will report back if the problem is solved (the hard way) or not.
Dave

[Dave27]

Here is a link to a video that deals exactly with your problem.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxEYSstvICI

Chris

Thank you, that is a very helpful video.
Dave

[Country Campers]

Dave,

Either side you put the set screw on it will not be accessible when it brakes, murphy's law. Please take a moment to post some pictures of your project, may be beneficial to others.

Brian

[Dave27]

I'll just finish this story. The wires on top were taped down with something like duct tape. It seemed to do a good job of holding the wires in place and next to the metal frame. Some of the tape was frayed, and that is what I thought was some exposed and frayed wire. That is why I took it apart. It turns out the motor was fine, and the wires were fine. I could not put it together as well as they did in the original construction. There is not enough room to easily get tape in place. I was able to get some tape in there. the seal is held in place with two sided tape. I scraped off the remains of it on the metal frame and on the seal. And put on new tape. Everything seems to be working now. The lesson is to fully try the error mode corrections first. I went into look at the motor first because I have read so many problems with this I wanted to see where it was and figure out how to get to it. Oh well, another day working on the camper...

Thank you everyone for your help.
Dave