Kodiak Disc Brake Bleed--Am I Doing it Right?

[howson]

Somewhat a continuation of this thread, https://gdrvowners.com/forum/operati...is-this-normal, but enough of a topic of its own so starting a new thread.

This is what I think I know:

1) Use fresh, unopened brake fluid only.
2) Have a bottle with some fluid in the bottom that the hose from the bleeder sits in (to keep air from being sucked back up the line).
3) I'm going to use the controller on the truck instead of the emergency pull switch--much easier to control the actuator on/off cycle.
4) Start by purging air from the actuator first.
5) Then go to the furthest brake from the actuator, purge the air, and work my way forward.

Did I miss anything?

Just to verify--it's the TOP bleeder I loosen (and then tighten back up) while bleeding--I don't mess with the lower one. Is that right?

(Now be nice--remember, I'm an avionics guy not a mechanic!)

[Cate&Rob]

howson

You've got it . This is far less stressful than you think it will be LOL!
I never though of using the controller in the truck instead of the emergency pull . . . good idea! Except that you need a second person to do it this way. Francine must be far more "tolerant" of these exercises than Cate is .
A clear tube from the (top) bleeder screw to the jar helps to see air bubbles.
Loosen the bleed screw with the box end of the wrench or a socket before you start.
Easier to use the open end of the wrench during the relatively "delicate" bleeding process, but the open end will round off the corners of a tight bleed screw.

Rob

[Guest]

Howard,

Yes you will only be bleeding the top bleeders on your calipers.

Jim

[howson]

Well that was an adventure. Fran is OK--but she wasn't paying attention while assisting me and tripped over the trailer's power cord which resulted in a face-plant on the concrete. Scared the crap out of me until I was sure she was OK. (A few minor scrapes and maybe a minor sprained wrist, but otherwise she's fine.)

For the procedure itself, why the heck is the gap between the nipple and nut so small? Hard to keep the hose on while turning the wrench.



Unlike my Goldwing motorcycle, the bleeder is inserted into a sleeve which in turn is inserted into the caliper. Thankfully I figured this out before trying to open the sleeve. How did I figure it out? While researching speedbleeders for the Kodiak calipers I stumbled across an etrailer.com reference I didn't understand: Brass bleed port includes 1/4"-28 bleed screw and 1/8" adapter. When I looked at the picture of the caliper again the proverbial "light bulb" went off--doh!--turn just the top part (the bleeder).

While I don't see it in the chart below, the speedbleeders I ordered for the 'Wing have multiple nipple length options--long and short. The long version retains the bleeder hose easily. If curious, you can see speedbleeders on one of the vendors I frequent: https://www.shop.shinhopples.com/cat...categoryId=122 You can also see in the parts list below that the long versions have an "L" at the end For those that are interested, the speedbleeder that fits looks like an SB1428. I'll be installing them next time I bleed!

• I am not affiliated with Shinhopples, Speedbleeders, or anything (or anyone) else whatsoever referenced in this post. I'm just a customer.

http://www.speedbleeder.com/size.htm




I also have to figure out how to add brake fluid easier to the actuator reservoir. It's a tight space where I had it installed, so I spilled brake fluid all over the place. (Sigh) Nice and clean under there now, since I got to scrub it real good with soap and water once I was done. What I'm thinking is something like an oil sprout can. It's what I have to use to get gear oil in my 'Wing, so I'm familiar with this gadget.



I'll post results of the bleed in the other thread.