Solar Disconnect for factory 300W Solitude

[ajg617]

Been reading through posts on solar disconnect and that is something I should add. The factory wiring was direct from the panel to the Jaboni with a 30amp fuse in-line between the Jaboni and the batteries. I re-cabled and added a BlueSea and buss bars which cuts the LiFePO4s completely but it doesn't stop the panel from pushing electricity into the Jaboni. I asked Jaboni about a disconnect and the answer I received was put a disconnect between the MPPT and the batteries. I essentially have that with the BlueSea but no way of controlling solar input independently. Initially I had intended to pull the batteries for the winter (didn't work out due to rig being at dealership) so my question was if the panel is still producing into the MPPT, could either the panel or controller be damaged?
Thanks,
John

[howson]

Note: post below copied and slightly edited from https://gdrvowners.com/forum/solar/1...739#post108739 (sorry it inserted before your post, Brian!)

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A cutoff switch is the ideal solution. It's even recommended in the Furrion Solar Controller manual (snip below) and is also found in many other controller manuals. Many of us here use a Blue Sea 6006 switch for this purpose. See https://www.bluesea.com/products/600...th__Knob_-_Red

Note that the switch recommendation is based on the assumption that the maximum voltage from the solar panel(s) on your Solitude does not exceed 48V (the max rating of this switch).



The quick, no modification method is also what was previously recommended--cover the panel(s) with a blanket, label the wires going into the controller and cap them off with a small wire nut. Then remove the blanket. The wires will be "live" coming from the solar panel but if the wire nuts are secure it should be OK. When you return the process is the opposite with an extra step. Cover the panel(s) with the blanket again, reinsert the PV wires into the controller per the labels, restore 12v power to the battery side of the controller, then uncover the panels.

Howard

[Country Campers]

There are some controllers that note to not apply solar power until a battery is connected, not sure if Jaboni does this or not. The nice thing about a disconnect between solar panel and the controller is if you need to service the controller you will not have live wires to deal with, if it is daylight or you do not cover the panels. I installed disconnects as many places as I could to help with service or if there is an issue.

Brian

[ajg617]

There are some controllers that note to not apply solar power until a battery is connected, not sure if Jaboni does this or not. The nice thing about a disconnect between solar panel and the controller is if you need to service the controller you will not have live wires to deal with, if it is daylight or you do not cover the panels. I installed disconnects as many places as I could to help with service or if there is an issue.

Brian

Thanks Brian. I already had to swap out the Jaboni since it overcharged and 'fooled' my PD controller into staying out of bulk mode. Did it at night since I had battery cut off installed. However, I see your point. The wires from the panel come out of a protective cover opening down onto the metal cross frame. I'll have to look at where I could place another disconnect off the frame - my cabling is already crowded.

[Country Campers]

A double pole breaker is also an idea for the solar input side.

Brian

[ajg617]

Note: post below copied and slightly edited from https://gdrvowners.com/forum/solar/1...739#post108739 (sorry it inserted before your post, Brian!)

---

A cutoff switch is the ideal solution. It's even recommended in the Furrion Solar Controller manual (snip below) and is also found in many other controller manuals. Many of us here use a Blue Sea 6006 switch for this purpose. See https://www.bluesea.com/products/600...th__Knob_-_Red

Note that the switch recommendation is based on the assumption that the maximum voltage from the solar panel(s) on your Solitude does not exceed 48V (the max rating of this switch).




Howard

Thanks Howard. I'm not exactly sure what the max voltage of the panel is - no specs in any of the documentation that I can find. Just went out and the new Future Solutions solar app says it's putting out ~39V. The MPPT user manual says it can take 72V.

[acoleman43]

Thanks Howard. I'm not exactly sure what the max voltage of the panel is - no specs in any of the documentation that I can find. Just went out and the new Future Solutions solar app says it's putting out ~39V. The MPPT user manual says it can take 72V.

Depending on how your panels are wired you may see more than 72V Below is a screen shot from my panels an hour ago. I had to find something that was good for 100V+ to make sure it's safe. Typically with switches, the higher the voltage they can handle, the lower the current they can handle. Need to watch both numbers.

[howson]

Thanks Howard. I'm not exactly sure what the max voltage of the panel is - no specs in any of the documentation that I can find. Just went out and the new Future Solutions solar app says it's putting out ~39V. The MPPT user manual says it can take 72V.

A friend has a new Momentum with a Future Solutions panel on it. Below is the pic he sent me. The key is the PMax (40.1v)--that's the highest the panel will output (under ideal, laboratory conditions). Unless you have two of these panels in series (which would double the voltage...which I doubt is the configuration based on the controller used) the Blue Sea switch should be just fine.

You'll note here on the forum that there are differing opinions on the issue of a cutoff switch. One says use a dual breaker and the other just a cutoff switch (given within specs). In short, what I understand is a dual breaker is required by code on home systems with a PV (Solar) Inverter (which connects directly to the grid). Home systems are typically configured to output a much higher voltage than what's used on an RV.

The difference between home systems with a PV Inverter and the purpose of an RV's system is the latter's job is to charge the rig's battery bank. Period. The battery bank is then used to power any number of systems, including in some cases an inverter.

Again, given that the PMax of a solar array is at or below the rating of the Blue Sea switch, IMO you'll be fine. (And this is just not my opinion, it was the configuration recommended to me by AMSolar, the outfit I bought all my gear from. Garret Towne has many YouTube videos that are easy to find.)

Howard

[ajg617]

A friend has a new Momentum with a Future Solutions panel on it. Below is the pic he sent me. The key is the PMax (40.1v)--that's the highest the panel will output (under ideal, laboratory conditions). Unless you have two of these panels in series (which would double the voltage...which I doubt is the configuration based on the controller used) the Blue Sea switch should be just fine.

You'll note here on the forum that there are differing opinions on the issue of a cutoff switch. One says use a dual breaker and the other just a cutoff switch (given within specs). In short, what I understand is a dual breaker is required by code on home systems with a PV (Solar) Inverter (which connects directly to the grid). Home systems are typically configured to output a much higher voltage than what's used on an RV.

The difference between home systems with a PV Inverter and the purpose of an RV's system is the latter's job is to charge the rig's battery bank. Period. The battery bank is then used to power any number of systems, including in some cases an inverter.

Again, given that the PMax of a solar array is at or below the rating of the Blue Sea switch, IMO you'll be fine. (And this is just not my opinion, it was the configuration recommended to me by AMSolar, the outfit I bought all my gear from. Garret Towne has many YouTube videos that are easy to find.)

Howard

Thanks again Howard. My build sheet says the panel is a Jaboni JPP-300 which I can't initially find any documentation on but that wouldn't be the first inaccuracy on the build sheet if it were something else. Curious where the FSI sticker was the your friend snapped a pic of? I haven't seen anything like it on ours. I'm hoping that I'll be below 40.1 and then just purchase another BlueSea. We have a generator at home - it's not hardwired but code also required a dual breaker so as not to back feed the grid.

[howson]

Thanks again Howard. My build sheet says the panel is a Jaboni JPP-300 which I can't initially find any documentation on but that wouldn't be the first inaccuracy on the build sheet if it were something else. Curious where the FSI sticker was the your friend snapped a pic of? I haven't seen anything like it on ours. I'm hoping that I'll be below 40.1 and then just purchase another BlueSea. We have a generator at home - it's not hardwired but code also required a dual breaker so as not to back feed the grid.

The label was facing down toward's the roof of the camper

[Sandridge4]

ajg617 I have had to contact Future Solutions several times for info, they finally sent me two documents that I will attempt to attach below. One is for the panel the other is the controller. I have the same panels and charger as you however my setup has two panels.

[ajg617]

ajg617 I have had to contact Future Solutions several times for info, they finally sent me two documents that I will attempt to attach below. One is for the panel the other is the controller. I have the same panels and charger as you however my setup has two panels.

Thank you Scott but that now leaves me wondering what I have up there. The Vmp for the JPP-300 panel is 32.26, but today the FS app was reading 38.9-39.1. I assumed it was a JPP-300 based upon the build sheet but there are other things on the build sheet that are not accurate so who know. Either way, Thanks for the docs.

[Country Campers]

ajg617

Not sure what year your Solitude is but if it was built in the last 3 years you may not have the same parts as another owner or as you have found the build sheet differs from what you have. You might try contacting Customer Service with your VIN and they may be able to give you a "real" build sheet, maybe.

Brian

[ajg617]

ajg617

Not sure what year your Solitude is but if it was built in the last 3 years you may not have the same parts as another owner or as you have found the build sheet differs from what you have. You might try contacting Customer Service with your VIN and they may be able to give you a "real" build sheet, maybe.

Brian

We ordered it Aug 2021 and it was built Dec 2021 - about 5 months from order and we were told at order time that supply chain issues were still a problem. It is a 2022 model and we were actually pleasantly surprised that it came with everything we ordered. I called Customer Service about one item but they said they had no means of confirming everything was accurate on the build sheet due to shortages - they were using whatever they could get. Have not been able to confirm what's on the roof though. Worth a call.

[ajg617]

No joy from Grand Design on what panel is installed so I'll need a scope camera to snap a picture of the label to really be sure. However, the Vmax is up to 39.9 on the FS app which would be about 7.5V higher than the JPP-300 max spec.