Solar Disconnect

[bilco82]

I've finished my lithium battery upgrade and now I plan to install a solar disconnect (see link below). I'm preparing for when I winterize my rig, and remove my lithium batteries, I can shut off the solar for the winter. I'll be installing the disconnect between the panels and the solar controller, and I'm going to connect the wires after dark when there's no current form the solar panel. Am I on the right track? Any other suggestions?

https://www.amazon.com/DIHOOL-Discon...p_sim_0_t&th=1

[Country Campers]

I think you are on the right track. They do make the breaker without the solar wire connectors, unless you need them.

Brian

[bilco82]

I think you are on the right track. They do make the breaker without the solar wire connectors, unless you need them.

Brian

Thanks, Brian. I don't need the solar connector, but I've already mounted the breaker and bought a solar crimper tool.

[acoleman43]

Thanks, Brian. I don't need the solar connector, but I've already mounted the breaker and bought a solar crimper tool.

Make sure your setup won't exceed the 30A rating of the disconnect.

[bilco82]

Make sure your setup won't exceed the 30A rating of the disconnect.

Do I need to go with a 50A disconnect? My solar controller is 50A. I assumed 30A would be fine since the batteries don't run the AC or microwave??

[Country Campers]

Do I need to go with a 50A disconnect? My solar controller is 50A. I assumed 30A would be fine since the batteries don't run the AC or microwave??

If you do not see more than 30 amps from the solar controller you should be fine, if you see more than 30 amps or plan on a solar upgrade then it will trip your breaker.

Brian

[howson]

Do I need to go with a 50A disconnect? My solar controller is 50A. I assumed 30A would be fine since the batteries don't run the AC or microwave??

The 50A rating on the controller is for the output side (max amperage that will go to the battery). The disconnect being discussed in this thread will go on the input side of the controller. The input's limitation is the maximum voltage allowed from the array. Usually, depending on the configuration of the solar panel array, the voltage is higher and amperage is lower on the input side than the output side.

What is the array configuration? (Number, wattage; and are the panels wired in series, parallel, or series-parallel?)

[bilco82]

The 50A rating on the controller is for the output side (max amperage that will go to the battery). The disconnect being discussed in this thread will go on the input side of the controller. The input's limitation is the maximum voltage allowed from the array. Usually, depending on the configuration of the solar panel array, the voltage is higher and amperage is lower on the input side than the output side.

What is the array configuration? (Number, wattage; and are the panels wired in series, parallel, or series-parallel?)

I have one factory installed Furrion solar panel, it's 165 watts. My solar controller is the Furrion MPPT 50A.

[howson]

I have one factory installed Furrion solar panel, it's 165 watts.

Are there plans to add panels? If not, the breaker you bought is more than sufficient to act as a disconnect switch.

Why can I make that statement? Because the Short Circuit Current of the Furrion panel is (only) 9.49 amps. That's the maximum amperage the panel can possibly generate in the worst-case scenario.

[bilco82]

Are there plans to add panels? If not, the breaker you bought is more than sufficient to act as a disconnect switch.

Why can I make that statement? Because the Short Circuit Current of the Furrion panel is (only) 9.49 amps. That's the maximum amperage the panel can possibly generate in the worst-case scenario.

No plans to add any panels. If I do, I know I'll need a bigger disconnect. Thanks for the input!!

[steveluannj]

Here is the one I am using- the stock panel is under 10 amps, and even with 2 more in series, the current is the same, and the voltage is about 60V, so this is big enough. Since I am splicing into the solar prep wires, the solar connectors were not needed.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0964SFYWJ...roduct_details

[howson]

...the stock panel is under 10 amps, and even with 2 more in series, the current is the same...

Exactly! It's all about the size/configuration of the array and it's maximum specifications--then sizing the other components supporting the array (solar controller, wire, switches, breakers and/or fuses, etc) appropriately.

bilco82 -- the point is to convey that even if you do add another panel, it may not necessarily require changing out the switch / breaker. As with a lot of things, the answer to the question "Will I need a different {fill in the blank} in my solar setup?" is: It depends.

Howard

[bilco82]

I got my solar disconnect installed, and it functions as it should. On another note. I've seen pictures of the Furrion MPPT solar controller monted sideways or horizontal, (see attached, not my rig). Is it okay to mount it this way?

[howson]

bilco82 -- I can't find any reference in Furrion's manuals that states a horizontal installation is an option. Out of curiousity I checked my Victron's SmartSolar and it mandates a vertical installation.

That doesn't mean the way your controller is installed will cause a problem...I'm only stating I couldn't find a reference that allows for it. What I did find was instructions to install the Furrion vertically (as likely you already know thus the question).

[JprSr]

I got my solar disconnect installed, and it functions as it should. On another note. I've seen pictures of the Furrion MPPT solar controller monted sideways or horizontal, (see attached, not my rig). Is it okay to mount it this way?

On our 24 17MKE it is actually mounted on the ceiling of the pass through.