Vanteer I like my blue ox, go for the straptec upgrade (wish i had known about them).
https://www.amazon.com/Lippert-33585.../dp/B00JJZ3T7S

I use this on my 2600RB.

https://www.huskytow.com/husky-towin...ribution-hitch

I have about 12,000 miles with it so far, and tow with my Tundra. It's very stable.

I have the Eaz-lift Recurve R6. Mine is the 600lb version for a 7000lbmax trailer (22rbe). I called them for advise and they suggested it as it is rated for 8klbs. I was also told that if I upsized it would work fine but the ride quality of the TV would suffer. I didn't check your specs but here is a link for the next size up. This WD hitch gives more ground clearance and the ability to back up and turn sharp wothout disconnecting the torsion arms. Good luck in your decision making. I struggled with it myself.

https://www.eaz-lift.com/collections...lb-2-5-16-ball

This is what I use as well and have been very satisfied. Appears they have gone up in price since I bought mine last fall.

We use the 10K Equalizer hitch which has worked well. However, if I had to buy this hitch again, I would opt for the 12K version for the 2600RB which would aid in transferring more mass to the front wheels. I'm currently using air bags to accomplish this with the 10K version.

https://www.equalizerhitch.com/

Jim

My last trailer, I used the Husky Centerline for about 25K miles. Really liked it, and pulled through some interesting weather and winds. The only negative is, after about 10K miles, it gets a bit noisy, no sneaking out in the morning.

The other WDH's I would look at is the Equalizer, which has a really good reputation, and the Weight Safe WDH (https://www.weigh-safe.com/product/t...ibution-hitch/), which seems to be getting popular lately. Nice thing with the Weight Safe is you will know your tongue weight.

X2 on weigh safe which provides measurable flexibility. For the Equalizer, these nylon pieces eliminate all squeaking for those that have this hitch or who may want one.

https://www.amazon.com/Equal-i-zer-9...48054702&psc=1

Jim

With all of the hitch options out there, the one thing I did not like about the equalizer style hitch is how the bars get tensioned by having to lift them over the perch. Nothing wrong with the way the equalizer style are designed and built, just not my preference, even though less moving parts. My dealer PDI Rep showed me to use the trailer jack to lift the rear of the truck so that it would make it easier to tension the chain. When I got home and listened to the jack straining, I determined that was not a good idea. MY LUCK and I would be in the middle of a trip when the motor burned up due to the overloading of picking up the rear of the truck.

My sequence: After alignment start lowering trailer until contact inside the ball socket is made and the rear of the truck starts to squat. At that time (depending on squat amount) before latching the hitch, I would install the weight bars, then latch the hitch, and lower. This resulted in much less tension than completely on the ball, and no stress on the latch and jack. To disconnect, pay attention to the jack and ball. You can tell when the jack starts to take too much weight from the truck resulting in lifting the truck. At that time I would release the chains. If everything was in line, the truck may drop 1/4-1/2" or not all all and extending the jack 1/4-1/2" would result in the trailer lifting from the ball.

Remember when you lift the truck with the trailer, that jack and latch are actually lifting the rear of the truck. I found the best easiest way for me to do this without adding any more stress to the critical latch or the much appreciated electric tonne jack.

I wonder if this can be accomplished with the straight bars as well?

I've not had a problem with jack strain. Perhaps GDRV is installing a jack capable of handling these loads?

Jim

Unless you have an undersized jack, lifting the truck slightly with the trailer jack should only add several hundred pounds, if at that. What I liked about doing it, other than connecting the bars, is it confirms that the hitch is locked on the ball. Just another way to make sure everything is connected properly, and nothing internal is broken. Same as the pull test on a 5th wheel.

I lift the back of my truck all the time, until the jack starts straining (standard Lippert jack, 2600RB, Husky Centerline TS). It makes it much easier to lift the bars. The gear ratio on the jack is very low so I don't think there is too much of a strain. If the motor ever does fail I can remove the rubber plug on the top and use my cordless screw gun or ratchet to raise or lower the jack until I can replace it.

AZMike Mike, there was an extensive discussion a while back about using the tongue jack to lift the rear of the trailer. https://gdrvowners.com/towing-and-hi...ontrol-hitches Yes it will do it, however, it's possible to strip the inside of the jack out which the over ride plug cannot solve.

Just food for thought.

Folks always have the option to use the hand tool to install the bars rather than lift enough to slide the bars on by hand. Raising slightly to remove the bars uses the bars themselves to take pressure off the jack. I'm moving into year 7 with no issues. Jacks however are wear items and they are under $200.

This is a non issue IMO.

Jim