It looks like GD put a 3,500lb jack on your Transcend. https://www.granddesignrv.com/owner-...s/detail/19347

The 200MK's GVWR is ~7K, that puts the max (theoretical) tongue weight at about 1K lbs.

Why not go with a 2K tongue jack? Should be more than enough. There's a Lippert manual model (inexpensive--use a drill to extend or retract) or a Stromberg 2K unit. The Stromberg's holes may not line up exactly...

https://www.etrailer.com/search/Tongue+Jack

Thanks, that looks promising. That Ultimate Dropdown looks promising, as do the manual/drill jacks which would get another 5" or so on the height and a much trimmer head. I need to measure the tongue weight, some have reported it to be as high as 1700 lbs with a full load of water and dry grey/black tanks. That does not seem plausible that the tongue weight is that high, although I am suspicious that it is significantly more than the 540 lbs that GD measured at the factory.

epearce

I will try not to d-rail your thread but wanted to add some info on the tongue weight.

The tongue weight listed by GD on the build sheet for your RV or in a brochure will be estimated. After the dealer receives the RV they will add propane to the empty cylinders as well as the deep cycle battery. These items will alter the tongue weight. It is easier to use a percentage of the gross vehicle weight, 15% for TT's I think is the norm, to calculate the worse case scenario.

Brian

You could go way left field..... https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...E&gclsrc=aw.ds then just remove the thing once attached and eliminate all the issues. Put in a power quick connector and maintain power jack. https://powerwerx.com/anderson-power...RoCZg4QAvD_BwE

You could even then build or have fabricated a ball top stabilizer capable of holding the full trailer load, and pull the jack for theft protection. No Jack, Hard to Steal.

The reviews on the Jack-E-Up were a bit mixed. As far as capacity, even if the tongue weight is in at ~1500 lbs, does anyone have a feel for how much weight the jack supports when engaging the WDH?

Well, after much web browsing, comparing dimensions and options, I came to the conclusion that even a drill operated side-winder like the Trailer Valet JXC would not likely clear the tailgate on my 2021 F150/200MK. Even the Ultimate Trailer Jack, would have two clearance problems--the drop pin would not clear the propane tanks (or maybe could be rotated 120 deg), but then the crank would also not clear the propane tanks. It would certainly clear the tailgate, you just could not operate it. It's also only a 2000 lbs jack--still twice the need, but looks lightweight.

So, I went with the heavy duty Jack-e-Up. It took quite a while to disassemble the Lippert electric case to install a new power and ground wire for the disconnect. I used a 10 AWG SAE connector, taking care to have the hot side with the ground on the pin to avoid having a hot pin on the disconnect. It turned out really nice. Contrary to some of the reviews, once the Jack-e-Up is under ~800 lbs of load, its rock stable. It's critical the adapter plate be installed on top of the triangle mounting plate, not on the bottom, so that it has the intended mechanical interface. If the plate is installed on the bottom of the jack's triangular plate, it would be very unstable. This requires removing the head when you install the plate.

It's going to look funny on the road with no jack. Don't forget to put the jack into the trailer... another item for the checklist. That would be bad to show up somewhere and find out you left your jack at home.

epearce
Eric . . . excellent information . . . Thanks!
Rob

You mention several times "clear the tailgate", what are referring to? I have the same issue with my 2023 2500 Silverado and my new Imagine trailer and am wondering if you moved the jack back to make it clear, or is this a lower profile Jack? How does it actually clear the tailgate?

I've seen some retrofits that move the jack back towards the trailer, but I don't think I could move back without a complete modification of the batters/Propane tanks etc.

Thanks,

There are a couple of options. One is to do as shown above and put in a quick connect for the jack. Another if the tube is far enough back and the bulge in the head is the issue is to rotate the head. This may require drilling and tapping a new hole in the extreme cases.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d5S4u0bikvI

I have a 2020 Silverado and a 21G Toyhauler that the jack interfered tailgate. Turned the jack head 90 degrees and now have about 1 inch of clearance. Had to drill and tap new hole as there weren’t the extra set of holes. I just have the regular tailgate, not fancy one.

Forgot, 2020 Silverado 2500 also.

I like this idea.

A friend of mine had this issue with his Forrest River trailer and Lipert jack. He found a tutorial where he just turned the jack to to be facing left instead of facing forward. That gave him just enough space to let his tailgate down fully. Only downside is the light faces to the left instead of towards the hitch. But he’s quite happy with it.