Keith, Is there a tag on the web strap?? Note the tag on this one: https://www.amazon.com/Stren-Flex-Ny...08G2WK84P?th=1 those straps are designed and rated for lifting at 5:1 . Meaning a 10k rating should break at no less than 50k.

Now for the shackle, find a shackle that fits what you need to attach the sling to for towing. From there see if the eye fits the sling. The pin of the shackle should fit the hole properly (1/8" diameter difference is PREFERRED but NOT ABSOLUTE). The wider the attachment point (think plate thickness that the pin goes through), the better. I like Green Pin shackles (cost effective for the genuine and rated min 4:1 or 5:1 breaking strength). https://www.amazon.com/VanBeest-inch...17&sr=8-4&th=1

Rather new to the market is also something called a "SOFT SHACKLE" https://www.amazon.com/RAYTEEN-Synth...7&sr=8-16&th=1

Thanks Joseph, The burst strength is 30,000 I think. Tag just says 10,000 working load. but I found the strap strength at 7500lbs per inch width. The eyes are a full 2" wide (strapping is folded and formed to get the reduced width and the opening is big enough (6" long) to loop the strap through. The sewn overlap length on the eye is at least 18". Do you think it would fit the 3/4" shackle. From some of the off road sites it appears I need a 1" shackle which are a bit more money. I think what I need (your opinion appreciated) is a swivel shackle with a tow hook., or a separate hook to fit the shackle. Truck has tow hooks up front and with the pin in the receiver hitch through the eye would be good there. Its not knowing how the other vehicle would be equipped.

Thanks for the help - this is all new to me. On my equipment trailer all my binding equipment is chains. Ratchet straps only hold the hay.

Keith

Keith, the shackle Bow (the round at the top) is 2" wide. will be close, but for what you are planning should not be a problem (in my opinion). For what I do for a living, that's a no go though. https://www.e-rigging.com/1-inch-screw-pin-shackle there are cost effective shackles out there. I have preferences due to client requirements in the paycheck.

Also avoid putting the strap INTO the receiver and putting the pin through it. Instead, use and ball and mount. Problem is any off axis pull will result in the strap pulling against the sharp edges of the tube possibly resulting in a broken strap and potential damage to the other vehicle. People do it, but I've got such bad luck I just avoid the potential. Also using the ball means quick reset if you have to reposition one of the vehicles.

I would avoid the swivel shackle (every connection is a potential for breaking), a J-hook (tow recover hook) in grade 80 that I see is 7k rated. The best thing (IMHO) is to be aware of what you are hooking to using the eyes to make a loop on itself (no shackle) as it will tighten as needed. Hooks and shackles are nice, but add weight and bulk (especially in my truck tool box) taking away from what I really need. I have a rope that I bought several years back, 13/16" diameter 70k breaking strength 20' OAL (never used it but it's in the tool box) and that is it. What a ball mount and the front hooks on the truck I have enough options to get me and someone else in or out of trouble. I have a receiver mounted d-ring for hooking to the rear of the truck (can pull to make the necessary loop if other end is already looped around something else) but https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...e?cm_vc=-10005 is a good option (light and easy to store) along with multiple uses vs a J-Hook (axle hook).

It's best to avoid the JERK pull method as this is where the most damage occurs to both vehicles (and possibly passengers from whiplash). Slow constant pull is the best method and what Yank-em Ropes are essentially about.

Thanks for the help and links. I now have this sorted out I think That receiver mount looks great - had not thought of that. All this will go into the truck bed in a box along with my super heavy duty jumper cables that I picked up years ago at an IH dealer - made for semi trucks. I think they are 2 awg cables. I hope I never need to use the tow strap, but you never know. Truck&Tow also has those frame hook sets (available elsewhere too) I might get one as DW manages to get stuck in the subdivision at lease once every winter

Keith

Keith, If you did not already have a "free" strap, something like this would make life easy (except for the pocket book and tongue lashing from the other half). https://towdawgusa.com/shop?utm_sour...5-WLpLxIUEp_ZQ

BTW you do not need that receiver adapter, I only have something similar b/c price was right (lets just say home built). An old ball mount and a shackle, or a ball that you already carry, experiment with ways to hook the strap (bungee chords around the eye to pinch it around the ball). Less weight and stuff floating around in the truck.

I have one of those somewhere from my 4X4 days on the flat tops above Glenwood Springs CO, before SWMBO came into my life. It was made of steel though . I had a a 77' high boy F250 with the 400 CI V8 and locker. It loved the mud. After that due to a melt down of the 400 I had an 80 Scout II with the 345 v8- it was a beast. Weakest link was the rear drive shaft. I twisted more than one on the trail. Now I like nice flat roads. As I mentioned back then straps weren't the best - lots of failures and damaged trucks and unfortunately a few deaths due to straps stretching and breaking, sending the parts through truck cabs and bystanders. Not good.. If and when I use the strap I will put a chain over it to weigh it down to reduce any damage if it breaks

Nuff said
Keith

What is your intended use of the tow strap?

Simple extraction - like pulling off on a soft shoulder and getting stuck. Getting DW unstuck from a snow drift. Pulling the compact tractor out of the soft spot in the back field. Simple things. I already have the strap, just figuring what ends to get. No off road stuff

Thanks
Keith

Check out Yankum Ropes/Matt's Off Road Recovery Ropes. They're amazing for extrication.

Jlawles2
I found this for the rear receiver. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...MSDF6KFD&psc=1 it can be ordered with a yellow shackle too. Saves a bit of weight, and I can see it. Also this shackle for the strap ends - 7/8" shackle size is recommended by strap manufacturer. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...H4345UQT&psc=1 I am just wondering if the 1" pin is too big as most are 7/8" for hooking to cars. etc? Thoughts?

Thanks

OffToHavasu Curtis - thanks for the tip - some very nice equipment. But I already have the strap - just figuring out what I need for the ends to have it work.

Keith

Yoda got it. After watching Matt's recoveries, I'll never use a strap again for a recovery again. Showing the "shock" load of a strap vs the rope is amazing, saving the vehicle, occupant, and the rebound to yank the vehicle out.

Thanks Curtis. However I learned long ago (late 70's and 80's) on the Flattops above Glenwood Springs CO to never "Yank" a vehicle out. I had a early 77 F250 4x4 high boy withe the 400 cid built with full lockers and the new BFG MT tires. State of the art back then. I also had a 12,000 lb winch. Back then it was pretty much all chains and cables for me. I did carry 100' of 12 ton rated high grade nylon rope. I forget how thick, but it was big and hard to work with, especially when it aged.

How did I learn not to yank? Too much carnage, broken stuff (chains. straps. ropes, bumpers, axles, bent frames, etc) and parts flying (shackles and hooks through windows, truck bodes, grills, radiators, etc). Straps got a bad rap back then, and the ropes were worse. Fortunately no one seriously hurt. Perhaps equipment and materials have improved, but I doubt the typical end user has unless properly trained. Like I said the simple stuff, otherwise I will call a proper tow service.

My off road days and breaking stuff are over. I do still remember the fun though. I could take my truck places the Jeeps could not go - the long wheel base helped getting up and over the big stair steps on quartzsite ridge....it also hurt going through the trees and gully's. I still remember the time I had to eat crow when I hung the truck up by the front and rear bumper - wheels basically in the air. The Jeep folks in the club never forgot that one

Thanks for the good thoughts though.

Keith

Keith, It's all in what you hook to. For what you are doing, the 1" pin through the eye of the strap and the bell (other end of shackle) to make a basket is the best option a lot of time b/c it's easy to get back apart. Also, depending on what you are hooking to, there may or may not be an attachment point. Truck to truck, most now days have tow hooks on the front, so you are limited there, or if you only have one shackle receiver, the other ends up being a ball mount anyway. Not always can you get to the other side to pull someone out the way they were headed. Sometimes they have to go back where they came from (BACK WHERE I COME FROM country song here).

As for the snatch guys, that's what these ropes were designed for https://yankum.com/ get a running start, rope stretches slowing down the recovery vehicle. Recovery vehicle comes to stop and hits brakes, elasticity of rope takes over and applies steady pressure to help break the vacuum holding the stuck vehicle into the mud, or it gets dragged along but without the shock.

Both of my 2500's have 13/16" X 20' 12 strand plasma ropes https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...57RfYncf8VD6IX never been used thankfully. Those do not stretch much.

Ah Keith, that's the point of those ropes, so you don't break parts. It's pretty cool stuff rally. They're like heavy duty bungees. The absorb the shock, and when they recoil, the pull the vehicle out. It's pretty cool stuff! The days of yanking with chains are in the past now! That's old school dude! LOL

Have fun and be safe!