Sub floor

[Cate&Rob]

GDRV-Megan
Thanks Megan .

Rob

[Country Campers]

GDRV-Megan

Thanks so much , that is great information.

Brian

[GDRV-Megan]

TucsonJim

According to your analysis there is the plastic layer followed by insulation and then the actual floor of the coach?

GDRV-Megan

Could you please see the pictures above and clarify a few questions?

1- What are the layers of the floor directly above the tires , from the bottom up?

2- Is this structure laminated?

3 - Krohsis has posted a picture of the plastic that is above his tires and after a trip thru the rain this plastic seems to be pretty warn , Should this be a concern for all owners?

Thanks

Brian

The layers of floor for our travel trailers are:

#1 - Darco (moisture barrier and rodent deterrent)
#2 - Hand sorted lauan
#3 - Tubular aluminum floor joist
#4 - TWO layers of hand sorted lauan with staggered seams (adding more strength)



All of our Reflection travel trailers, 150 Series, 29RS, 28BH, 31MB all have laminated floors.


Everything larger will have the alum stud floors with the 5/8" 1 piece of big board.

The layers of floor for our fifth wheels are:

#1 - Darco
#2 - 2x3 aluminum studs (used for support and stuffed with wood for screw retention)
#3 - "Big Board" Marine Grade 1 piece decking that is fastened to the aluminum floor frame


(Sorry this picture doesn't have the numbers labeled like the above one does)

[Cate&Rob]

do you know why there's the difference in the floor constructions?

I would agree that the lighter weight laminate construction with rigid foam insulation, as used on the TTs and smaller 5th wheels, is a better floor construction. I don't like the fiberglass insulation "sponges" under the OSB floors (as I referenced earlier). The larger 5th wheels can tolerate the heavier weight OSB flooring and this likely provides more tolerance for where interior cabinets and walls can be fastened to the floor. I would expect that with the lighter weight floor, they have to be more careful about getting walls and larger cabinets fastened directly to the aluminum grid under the floor laminate. (Just a guess on this last part).

Rob

[howson]

My guess is it is just OSB since this is a lower end RV and the fancy flooring is reserved for the higher end GD coaches.

Honestly, I think the floor in our TT is better than what they put in the 5vrs--all of them--including the Solitude. I've seen both types of floor construction on the production lines and, while I'm no expert, the laminate "sandwich" assembly GD uses on the Reflection TT looks fantastic.

This may be a bit OT, but TucsonJim and/or Cate&Rob -- do you know why there's the difference in the floor constructions?

[Krohsis]

One last question for @TucsonJim, what thickness of SS plate did you use?

I know you were trying to prevent damage in the event of another tire letting go, which is a good idea. I was thinking even though my primary purpose for putting a shield in is to prevent water migration, why not make it beefy enough to mitigate damage from a tire failure. No one is immune to tire failures. Fortunately, knock on wood, we have never had a tire failure. But as the saying goes, there are two types of RVers, those who have experienced a tire failure and those that will.

@Country Campers, for my coach I can tell there is no insulation between the fabric and the flooring, only the fabric, but we have a Reflection TT so perhaps it is lesser made. Or maybe GD was concerned about the insulation retaining water if the fabric failed. Only speculation on my part. You will know if you crawl under there and touch the area in question.

I'm still not sure if my flooring above the fabric is solid plywood or perhaps OSB or if it is the sandwich stuff. I'll do some checking. My guess is it is just OSB since this is a lower end RV and the fancy flooring is reserved for the higher end GD coaches.

[TucsonJim]

TucsonJim

According to your analysis there is the plastic layer followed by insulation and then the actual floor of the coach?

That is correct.

[TucsonJim]

Nice work, Jim. That is kind of what I was thinking, but not quite as beefy. But I think I like your beefy approach. Did you do anything to prevent water migration into the wood before attaching the SS?

I put a bead of silicone caulk where the stainless and the frame met. It worked for many miles until I lost the RV in an unrelated fire.

Jim

[Country Campers]

Krohsis

I think 16 gage painted steel or stainless steel ($$) would be sufficient in this area. If you get it fitted good I think a bead of silicone around the outer perimeter and then screwed to floor as Jim has done would do a good job at sealing this. Make sure all surfaces are clean. I also would wonder if that "putty tape" not sure what the name is , would work as well.

Brian

[Country Campers]

TucsonJim

According to your analysis there is the plastic layer followed by insulation and then the actual floor of the coach?

GDRV-Megan

Could you please see the pictures above and clarify a few questions?

1- What are the layers of the floor directly above the tires , from the bottom up?

2- Is this structure laminated?

3 - Krohsis has posted a picture of the plastic that is above his tires and after a trip thru the rain this plastic seems to be pretty warn , Should this be a concern for all owners?

Thanks

Brian

[Krohsis]

Nice work, Jim. That is kind of what I was thinking, but not quite as beefy. But I think I like your beefy approach. Did you do anything to prevent water migration into the wood before attaching the SS?

[TucsonJim]

Once my trailer was damaged by the tire, I decided to cover the affected area in stainless steel plate before hitting the road again.



Jim

[TucsonJim]

OK--now I understand what you're asking.

I had to run out and look at mine. I've put >18K miles on the trailer and those locations look fine. The only complaints I've read is when a tire blows and the flapping rubber obliterates the underside of the trailer. Unless you build a tank frame under there, a flapping tire is going to tear stuff up.

On my 2014 Reflection 337RLS, I had a tire fail and tear up the flooring. It tore up the water proof membrane and shredded it. then it ripped out the fiberglass insulation. Next to go was the OSB subfloor. And finally, it deformed (but did not tear) the vinyl flooring. Here is a photo.



Jim

[Krohsis]

I'm certainly open to suggestions. Not only to medium, i.e, sheet aluminum or galvanized steel. And as to thickness, i.e, 16ga vs 22ga, etc. Also, what sealant to use to seal edges. Whether something like Proflex would be ok, or if a polyurethane product would be better. Since edges of the sheet metal can be in a direct stream of water coming off the tire, it needs to be durable and checked often. A small hole made from a caulk line failing would put water under the sheet metal, and as Howard said, that would make matters worse.

@Cate & Rob, I just saw your post, good suggestion as to ideas where took look to get an idea on the flooring material. Thanks, I'll take a peak.

[howson]

Krohsis -- a couple of considerations if material is added to this area: 1) Provide a way for the area to drain and dry. Trapping moisture here could be bad! 2) Watch the clearance between the top of the tire and the trailer. For this latter point, I defer (again) to others as I know it is a critical consideration but not how to determine what is "enough". Cate&Rob ?

I'll be very interested in what you come up with--please update this thread as you go forward.

TucsonJim -- as Country Campers mentioned, didn't you do something in this area on your 297?