I hope it is OK to post this, but if not move or delete. As I took my coroplast totally down I thought I would post pictures of the underbelly framing and tank locations as well as wiring and heating runs. This is specific to my unit, but the other smaller 150 series models with the rear kitchen should be close
Starting curb side rear
Rear gray tank and heating run visible. In photo two the cross member holding the spare tire carrier are shown All cross member are welded except the one fram member on one side of the tank. It is bolted on each end (two self drilling screws) Fresh water tanks far left in second photo.
Fresh water tank is supported by 2 cross members, but not across the center where I found the tank bulging. Left support is welded to the cross member at an angle so water flow to the outlet. The right support is screwed to the frame (two self drilling screws per end) I found all these screws loose. Tank is also free to move sideways $' to 6" . I will be putting in stop blocks or a retention cross member to stop this movement. Exit valves for gray tank (foreground) and black tank (background can also be see. there is an outlet from the heating duct that goes to the rear gray tanks here. Note the tight bend on the valve cables. I am going to look at re-routing theses to get gentler bends. I may ass Robs zerk fitting idea too. Cate&Rob
to be continued......
Starting curb side rear
Rear gray tank and heating run visible. In photo two the cross member holding the spare tire carrier are shown All cross member are welded except the one fram member on one side of the tank. It is bolted on each end (two self drilling screws) Fresh water tanks far left in second photo.
Fresh water tank is supported by 2 cross members, but not across the center where I found the tank bulging. Left support is welded to the cross member at an angle so water flow to the outlet. The right support is screwed to the frame (two self drilling screws per end) I found all these screws loose. Tank is also free to move sideways $' to 6" . I will be putting in stop blocks or a retention cross member to stop this movement. Exit valves for gray tank (foreground) and black tank (background can also be see. there is an outlet from the heating duct that goes to the rear gray tanks here. Note the tight bend on the valve cables. I am going to look at re-routing theses to get gentler bends. I may ass Robs zerk fitting idea too. Cate&Rob
to be continued......
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