FTB - 297QB - Dealer hitch purchase required

[kelburn]

Hey everyone, we are in the process of buying a 297QB. First time buyer/owner of a travel trailer. We are supposed to take delivery on the 13th.

I got a 1200lb tongue weight Equalizer WDH unused from a buddy. The dealer salesman says that I have to use the R3 recurve WDH that they will install, for a hefty markup of course. He says that if I want to use my Equalizer that I will have to install it myself “in the parking lot” for “liability” reasons.

I am not averse to installing the Equalizer hitch myself, I do very technical work and feel confident that I could do it, although not as quickly as the dealer. I also have RV-experienced friends that could tag along and help guide me if necessary. However, if the R3 is a decent enough hitch I don’t mind paying the upcharge for the R3 dealer install. It looks like the R3 may be easier to setup after the installation. After doing some internet comparison of the Equalizer and the R3 recurve, the Equalizer is more expensive and might be a more substantial hitch. They seem to use different mechanisms to control sway but both use friction. My main concern is having a safe and uneventful tow experience. The salesman did not mention which R3 they would use, but I am assuming it will be the 1200lb tongue weight model.

So my questions are:
-Is this dealer practice of forcing install of their own hitches common?
-Does anyone have experience with both the Equalizer and R3 and can compare/contrast them, which is better and why?
-Is the either the Equalizer or R3 going to be drastically better than the other?

Hopefully these are easy answers, not trying to request a book from you great (grand?) people on my first post.

Thanks in advance,
Kel

[Jlawles2]

You might see what other hitches the dealer sells. I had a BlueOx on my first TT and really like the way it sets up and attaches. Howson (Howard) changed out the chain lifters to a strap (https://store.lci1.com/straptek-weig...it-335852.html) that made it much easier to attach and detach.

With any hitch, its just a matter of being confident in reading a tape measure to do the install. Go through the instructions carefully before getting to the dealership, and be prepared to spend a few minutes laying out the bar attachment points. If in doubt, ask one of your friends to verify you setup. You might be able to pay one of their tech cash to setup the hitch for you during his break or lunch.

It never hurts to understand your hitch by reading and following the instructions. You might be amazed in buying the hitch the dealer sells only to find out that you still have to make changes once you get it home and loaded as the conditions change. I know on our TT the hitch setup from the dealer was not right as I could feel the tires slip in certain conditions. Once it was all loaded, I moved the unit to a level spot, went through the setup procedure and found that it pulled much better than when we left the dealer with the unit.

[TucsonJim]

My dealer was pushing one brand of hitch (Equalizer), and I wanted a Blue Ox. They used the same argument about liability and installation. I assembled the main components of the hitch at home, but it needed a minor adjustment upon arrival to pick up the trailer. The dealer grumbled, but said they'd make the adjustment. When the "kid" showed up to make the adjustment, he didn't even have a torque wrench. I sent him on his way and made the adjustments myself.

The dealership should be concerned with selling and servicing your trailer. They shouldn't be making decisions for you regarding tow vehicles, hitches, etc.

Jim

[RJAPCOK]

One thing I will add. Your 297QB has a gross vehicle weight of 8995 lbs (same as my 2970RL). It is my opinion, that you want your hitch to be capable of carrying at least 15% of the trailer's gross weight. In this case, that is about 1350 lbs. Don't forget to check the receiver load rating to be sure it is also capable of at least 15% of the trailer's gross weight.

For my 2970RL, with gross trailer weight of 8995 lbs. I use a 1400/14000 lb Equalizer WDH. My receiver is rated for 1500 lbs tongue weight and 13000 lbs towing.

The reason I suggest the 15% number is that everything I have seen on good towing practice and weight distribution says that you want your tongue weight to be 10% to 15% of your gross trailer weight. In actual practice, you will find it is somewhere between those values, but your hitch needs to be capable of at least the maximum amount. AND... don't forget that a WDH carries not only the trailer tongue weight, but a portion of the tow vehicle weight as well. All the more reason to go with a higher rating on your WDH.

I hope this helps.

Bob

[Tom in PGH]

It’s a little late for this but, when we bought our 303, I researched in advance and determined which hitch I wanted. I chose to go with the Andersen. When we negotiated price, I came in with the package that I wanted, including the hitch and the options on the trailer (second air, table and chairs, dual-pane glass, no extended warranty, etc.). The price that was negotiated was “out the door”, including taxes and anything else they wanted to include. I could then negotiate price with different dealers, knowing that we were working from the same package. This way, there was no after-sale “you’ve got to do this, for that price” coming at me later.

[jlackman]

Hey everyone, we are in the process of buying a 297QB. First time buyer/owner of a travel trailer. We are supposed to take delivery on the 13th.

I got a 1200lb tongue weight Equalizer WDH unused from a buddy. The dealer salesman says that I have to use the R3 recurve WDH that they will install, for a hefty markup of course. He says that if I want to use my Equalizer that I will have to install it myself “in the parking lot” for “liability” reasons.

I am not averse to installing the Equalizer hitch myself, I do very technical work and feel confident that I could do it, although not as quickly as the dealer. I also have RV-experienced friends that could tag along and help guide me if necessary. However, if the R3 is a decent enough hitch I don’t mind paying the upcharge for the R3 dealer install. It looks like the R3 may be easier to setup after the installation. After doing some internet comparison of the Equalizer and the R3 recurve, the Equalizer is more expensive and might be a more substantial hitch. They seem to use different mechanisms to control sway but both use friction. My main concern is having a safe and uneventful tow experience. The salesman did not mention which R3 they would use, but I am assuming it will be the 1200lb tongue weight model.

So my questions are:
-Is this dealer practice of forcing install of their own hitches common?
-Does anyone have experience with both the Equalizer and R3 and can compare/contrast them, which is better and why?
-Is the either the Equalizer or R3 going to be drastically better than the other?

Hopefully these are easy answers, not trying to request a book from you great (grand?) people on my first post.

Thanks in advance,
Kel

My experience has never included the dealer "forcing" me to do anything. I think you could pull the trailer out without even having an equalizer if you wanted, if you lived like a mile away and wanted to do the equalizer later. I have used a lot of different "weight distribution" hitches and I actually really like the brand. I've use a lot of different weight distribution hitches, but never the r3 brand so I can't do a direct comparison. With the TV (tow vehicle) truck you mention, I don't think the brand difference would be dramatic or noticeable. But, I do like the Equal-i-zer. If you do the Equal-i-zer, make sure to buy a couple of the "jacket" to help keep the noise down; https://www.equalizerhitch.com/store...et-jacket-pair

[kelburn]

Thanks to all the great replies! I really appreciate the advice. After doing some more reading, I was wondering if a 1200lb tongue weight hitch would be too small to follow the 15% rule. A 1400lb would be better it looks like. Maybe even a 1500lb depending on the lower end of the weight range for that hitch.

[RJAPCOK]

kelburn If it helps any, my trailer is very similar in weight to yours. My advertised unladen tongue weight is 751 lbs and my GVW is 8995 lbs. The last time I weighed at the CAT scale, with the trailer and truck loaded as normal (i.e. no water in the fresh or waste tanks, all necessary stuff in the cargo bay etc.) the additional load on my truck was 1100 lbs. And the trailer was weighing right around 8300 total. In this case 1100 lbs represents about 13% of the gross trailer weight. I use a 1400/14000 lb Equal-i-zer.

If you can use the 1200/12000 Equal-i-zer for free, It might be worth giving it a try. At worst, you will find you want to buy a heavier duty hitch and it may give you a better idea of what you want before you shell out some big bucks.

Bob

P.S. The Equal-i-zer is not hard to install and set up, although it is a little time consuming. If you don't have a manual, you can download one from the Equal-i-zer web site. But you have to torque the shank bolts to 320 ft lbs. That might be your biggest challenge.

[kelburn]

RJAPCOK that is a good point. A 1200# hitch will get the dry trailer home and my also work for us depending on the wet loading. We may be able to get by with only changing out the bars to take it up to a 1400# hitch, will have to compare those two.

Thanks again for all the great replies.

[Summit1]

Just started the deal on a new 337RLS yesterday, and was offered a 5th Wheel coupler/hitch by the dealership. Granted their unit would cost me $1500-2000 (installation included... such a deal!). Realizing the dealership needs to make a profit and remain solvent to continue in business, I graciously declined their Demco and Blue Ox units. I have on order a B&W Companion OEM for considerably lower price/cost from a nearby independent dealer. The dealership is cool with that, but had me sign an acknowledgement form that lists the type of vehicle I will show up with to pull the RV away from the dealership... a release from liability of sorts. They know that, at least in this state, they cannot legally detain anybody, although they can refuse to sell somebody anything that is grossly unsafe... perceived or actual liability considered, of course.

[RJAPCOK]

RJAPCOK ....We may be able to get by with only changing out the bars to take it up to a 1400# hitch, will have to compare those two.

Thanks again for all the great replies.

One disadvantage of Equal-i-zer is that you cannot change the bars to go from 1200# to 1400#. Unfortunately, you have to also change the hitch head.

[RJAPCOK]

kelburn if you decide you want to purchase a heavier duty WDH, you might want to check this one out. It has been on the market about a year, there are several YouTube videos reviewing it. It looks like they have solved a lot of the problems you encounter with WDHs.

https://www.weigh-safe.com/product/t...ibution-hitch/

Bob