access behind the front wall in storage bin Imagine 2600

[howson]

I look forward to hearing what they say. I too would like to get behind that panel without having to cut it out.

Can you take pictures and post what you're planning? While I doubt I'll have anything to add to this thread I'd like to be able to "see" what you guys are referencing. (TIA!)

[Guest]

[QUOTE=Running from Gnats;n13936]

I'm looking to be able to cleanly and safely access so as to be able to place wiring out of the way, where it won't be damaged or moved by items in storage bin. I'm planning on using the Furrion plug with a suitcase solar system.

I'm interested in this as well and for the same reasons. If the front wall area is not accessible, an alternate method may be to go through the floor behind the main control panel where the battery switch is located in the passthrough. It looks like there is an access panel to get inside this area.

Jim

[ckreef]

Can you take pictures and post what you're planning? While I doubt I'll have anything to add to this thread I'd like to be able to "see" what you guys are referencing. (TIA!)

I'll try to take pictures in the next couple of days. I need to remove everything from the pass through storage for a different project and that will be a good time to take pictures.

I would do it today but I'm about to start a house gutter cleaning project - :(

[Guest]

Guys,

Its a balmy 60F in Michigan today so I went out in the Imagine and took some pics and looked at the front panel in detail. The front panel is attached to a stud system between this panel and the front cap. The panel that folks want to remove in the passthrough is pin nailed to this stud system so to remove it would most likely result in damage. But there is really no need to get back there as seen from the following pics if wiring access and routing is the interest.

First pic (laying under tongue facing left) shows the main battery feed and the junction box from the TV side. From here the main battery feed, marker lights, power to front cap and motion lights, solar plug wires as well as AC lines (both GFCI and non GFCI) cross over, up through the floor and behind the passthrough accessory panel. From inside this area, there is a loom that runs along the aluminum frame in the ceiling of the passthrough and to behind the front panel that folks are interesting in removing.

Propane line laying on the stabilizer jack will also need to be tied up out of the way.

Jim

[ckreef]

Guys,

Its a balmy 60F in Michigan today so I went out in the Imagine and took some pics and looked at the front panel in detail. The front panel is attached to a stud system between this panel and the front cap. The panel that folks want to remove in the passthrough is pin nailed to this stud system so to remove it would most likely result in damage. But there is really no need to get back there as seen from the following pics if wiring access and routing is the interest.

First pic (laying under tongue facing left) shows the main battery feed and the junction box from the TV side. From here the main battery feed, marker lights, power to front cap and motion lights, solar plug wires as well as AC lines (both GFCI and non GFCI) cross over, up through the floor and behind the passthrough accessory panel. From inside this area, there is a loom that runs along the aluminum frame in the ceiling of the passthrough and to behind the front panel that folks are interesting in removing.

Propane line laying on the stabilizer jack will also need to be tied up out of the way.

Jim

The panel you have removed in the 3rd and 4th picture is not the panel I want to remove. The panel I want to remove is exactly opposite the panel you removed. I want to remove the panel that is up against the front cap where the light and the switch for the front LED's is located.

[Country Campers]

Jim

It was a great day for a little "nap" in the sunshine , just could not get enough .

I have seen quite a few Imagines built on various factory tours. The front end of these have quite the wall structure built for rigidity of the whole RV as well as the front cap. I can not imagine removing the paneling from this structure will yield any "real" usable space or an area for running wires. I agree that it may be best to run these underneath and up into the pass thru.

Brian

[howson]

Guys,

Its a balmy 60F in Michigan today so I went out in the Imagine and took some pics and looked at the front panel in detail. The front panel is attached to a stud system between this panel and the front cap. The panel that folks want to remove in the passthrough is pin nailed to this stud system so to remove it would most likely result in damage. But there is really no need to get back there as seen from the following pics if wiring access and routing is the interest.

First pic (laying under tongue facing left) shows the main battery feed and the junction box from the TV side. From here the main battery feed, marker lights, power to front cap and motion lights, solar plug wires as well as AC lines (both GFCI and non GFCI) cross over, up through the floor and behind the passthrough accessory panel. From inside this area, there is a loom that runs along the aluminum frame in the ceiling of the passthrough and to behind the front panel that folks are interesting in removing.

Propane line laying on the stabilizer jack will also need to be tied up out of the way.

Jim

My 315's Nautilus panel area is different, but the area behind it is where I brought in wires from the front and also from the hutch area to my inverter setup in the pass-thru.

[Guest]

The panel you have removed in the 3rd and 4th picture is not the panel I want to remove. The panel I want to remove is exactly opposite the panel you removed. I want to remove the panel that is up against the front cap where the light and the switch for the front LED's is located.

I understand. To remove the front panel that you are inquiring about will damage it. Its nailed in at each vertical stud location with trim also nailed all around this panel. Also this frontal area is full of insulation. I was showing an alternate location for wire routing in the pics.

Well at least I answered my question. I was looking for the location of all the front wire routing to mount a Lithium charger and to route cabling to the battery.

Jim

[Guest]

My 315's Nautilus panel area is different, but the area behind it is where I brought in wires from the front and also from the hutch area to my inverter setup in the pass-thru.

Howard,

If I were planning to run solar cabling from the roof to the floor, I would seriously think about the same route. In the 2600RB, there are bedroom cabinets that run from the ceiling to the passthrough and into the same area behind the panel as illustrated. Not sure what to call this area as its not a Nautilus. Accessory panel?

Jim

[howson]

Howard,

If I were planning to run solar cabling from the roof to the floor, I would seriously think about the same route. In the 2600RB, there are bedroom cabinets that run from the ceiling to the passthrough and into the same area behind the panel as illustrated. Not sure what to call this area as its not a Nautilus. Accessory panel?

Jim

Nautilus Light or Mini Naut?

[ckreef]

Jim

It was a great day for a little "nap" in the sunshine , just could not get enough .

I have seen quite a few Imagines built on various factory tours. The front end of these have quite the wall structure built for rigidity of the whole RV as well as the front cap. I can not imagine removing the paneling from this structure will yield any "real" usable space or an area for running wires. I agree that it may be best to run these underneath and up into the pass thru.

Brian

There must be some amount of area behind that panel as they have a light and the LED switch/wires running back there.

[Running from Gnats]

I've just spoken with GD tech support and it appears there is no way to remove the front board in the storage bin. The board is a structural member and apparently the only real way to access the rear of it is to remove the cap and insulation in order to remove it.


However, it appears the Furrion solar cable may run across the width of the trailer in that space and exit thru the floor on the passenger side. I'm going to try to figure out if I can run the cables from the inverter thru the same hole the solar uses and then out to the batteries. I need to clear enough space to crawl into the compartment and try to get a photo with my cell phone. I have reached behind the board and there is room for running cables. It may be a matter of trying to figure out where the cables can go thru the floor and positioning the inverter as close to that spot, drilling through the board to run the cables and route that way.

It's going to take some time to check it out, but I will post after I try to get a photo of exactly what is going on behind it and possibly locate where the Furrion cables runs.

[ckreef]

I've just spoken with GD tech support and it appears there is no way to remove the front board in the storage bin. The board is a structural member and apparently the only real way to access the rear of it is to remove the cap and insulation in order to remove it.

That tech support person just doesn't want you to mess with that board or he didn't understand what board you were talking about. I took everything out of the front storage and inspected the front board. The board itself is defiantly not structural. It is a thin piece of wall board pin nailed to a wooden frame. The wooden frame might be structural but the board itself is not. It does span the entire length and goes from the bottom flooring up to the top aluminum frame. They even installed some extra trim along the bottom probably to hide a not so perfect cut.

I do believe you could very carefully pry that board loose from the pin nails/frame behind it. You can reach your hand over the top and feel the frame behind it. I also think I could use a dremel tool and cut it vertically in the middle of one of the frame pieces so you could pry off just a section. Up at the top their is about 7" of depth between that board and the front cap. Down lower the space gets smaller as the front cap curves in.

Wish I would have taken a more closeup picture of the pin nails holding it to the frame.

At the top left side of the picture (above the light and switch) you can see 3 pin nails holding it to the back frame.

[Running from Gnats]

That tech support person just doesn't want you to mess with that board or he didn't understand what board you were talking about. I took everything out of the front storage and inspected the front board. The board itself is defiantly not structural. It is a thin piece of wall board pin nailed to a wooden frame. The wooden frame might be structural but the board itself is not. It does span the entire length and goes from the bottom flooring up to the top aluminum frame. They even installed some extra trim along the bottom probably to hide a not so perfect cut.

I do believe you could very carefully pry that board loose from the pin nails/frame behind it. You can reach your hand over the top and feel the frame behind it. I also think I could use a dremel tool and cut it vertically in the middle of one of the frame pieces so you could pry off just a section. Up at the top their is about 7" of depth between that board and the front cap. Down lower the space gets smaller as the front cap curves in.

Wish I would have taken a more closeup picture of the pin nails holding it to the frame.

At the top left side of the picture (above the light and switch) you can see 3 pin nails holding it to the back frame.

I've had a chance to look back behind the board. The board is screwed from behind into an aluminum frame. I do see where it's been pinned along some vertical struts, but until I can get back in with a camera, I'm not sure if the pins are in wood or aluminum. Plus there is that strip on the bottom of the board.

My aim is to remove it with minimal damage to the board.

[ckreef]

This tread is just wrong as it applies to the original question . The front storage board is paneling attached to a wooden frame using finishing nails and pin Staples. Although I believe it would be possible to take it off in one complete piece, removing it in sections should be much easier. Here is what I did:

I wanted to get behind that panel on the passenger side so I could install a TST tpms relay/extender to the front marker light.

I located the first vertical stud away from the side wall. About 24". I popped a vertical line 1/2 way across the stud. I then used a dremel tool with cutoff wheel to cut through the paneling but not into the stud. I used a box cutter to make the final cut near the floor. Using a small and large pry bar I carefully pried the trim pieces and paneling off the studs. It wasn't hard you just need to do it gently so you don't bust the paneling.



You then need to push from the backside to get the finishing nails and pin staples out of the paneling. I installed my relay/extender then reattached the piece of paneling using stainless steel screws. Now when I turn on my truck/trailer lights when towing the relay/extender comes on. I can also reach over the top and get to the relay/extender in-line fuse without removing the screws/paneling



They say the paneling is structural. Although the wooden frame looks to be structural. the paneling at most would be structural for a doll house. The paneling might be used to stabilize the frame but it was fairly easy to pry loose. After reinstalling it with a few stainless steel screws, if you attempted to pry it loose you would rip the paneling apart.


Sometime in the near future I'm going to do the same thing for the driver's side so I can install a dimmer knob to my front cap LED's.